Discussion
When my lights are on my rev counter, speedo, oil pressure and temp all light up but the fuel gauge and voltmeter don't...
Any help suggesting??
Im guessing either the bulbs have blown (removable??)
Or an earth wire come off.
Is there an easy way to remove? I can take the radio out and have extra access to the dials.
the dash dimmer switch doesn't appear to work but doesn't bother me, just saying incase this affects anything.
Mick
Any help suggesting??
Im guessing either the bulbs have blown (removable??)
Or an earth wire come off.
Is there an easy way to remove? I can take the radio out and have extra access to the dials.
the dash dimmer switch doesn't appear to work but doesn't bother me, just saying incase this affects anything.
Mick
,and I wanted a spare hole for an oil pressure warning light. 
Mick, nice to see someone so enthusiastic. I hope the wiring behind your dash is better than that under the bonnet, it worries me seeing wiring like that. You dont seem over confident with the wiring so dont get too involved if you think its a problem, far better to get someone who knows what they are doing to at least help.
First thing DISCONNECT the battery. You may be able to reach the 2 offending bulb holders by removing the radio and slipping your hand behind dash and checking bulbs and earths. If you find the problem it may be better if you just repair it and forget changing dash, your original one looks fine. Once you start pulling the dash away it is so easy to pull off wires and they are all black, I didn,t describe it as a rats nest for nothing.
OK, if you still want to go further the best thing is to give yourself as much room to work as possible so remove steering wheel and loosen (or remove centre console) and get under car and disconnect speedo cable. There are 4 nuts and bolts holding it in, 2 can be seen under the bonnet below the windscreen between the windscreen washers. If you look at the pics the first one is a Taimar (ignore the second , its a 3000S and is totally different). You will see 2 "extensions from the top of the dash, the 2 bolts go through these behind the dash 2BA from memory. This is a 2 man job, one inside car and one under bonnet. The other 2 are in the door shuts and go through the ends of the dash. Once you have undone these you should be able to pull the dash forward. DO THIS VERY GENTLY, it is easy to pull off wires so do not pull it any more than it wants to go. You should now be able to see behind dash and get your hands in. TAKE PHOTOS. start by carefully removing the heater trunking to give yourself more room and visibility.
Now one by one disconnect the wires from each instrument in turn, remove the brackets holding in that instrument and reconnect everything as it came off and leave it behind the dash. Repeat this for each instrument and then each switch till everything is disconected. Now remove the heater controls in the same manner, you may want to lubricate the cables before refitting. The dash panel should now be free to be removed. If you have any dodgy wiring now is the time to fix it and clean ALL earthing points. Swap over glove box ans eyeball vents etc...
As they say in all the best Haynes manuals, reassembly is the reverse of the above.. When reconnecting its always a good idea to remove all the fuses before reconnecting the battery and replace them (preferably with new ones.... they do get corroded and affect current) one by one so that if you have got a problem it is not a huge one and it helps identify which part of the wiring the problem is in. Good luck. sTeVeR
First thing DISCONNECT the battery. You may be able to reach the 2 offending bulb holders by removing the radio and slipping your hand behind dash and checking bulbs and earths. If you find the problem it may be better if you just repair it and forget changing dash, your original one looks fine. Once you start pulling the dash away it is so easy to pull off wires and they are all black, I didn,t describe it as a rats nest for nothing.
OK, if you still want to go further the best thing is to give yourself as much room to work as possible so remove steering wheel and loosen (or remove centre console) and get under car and disconnect speedo cable. There are 4 nuts and bolts holding it in, 2 can be seen under the bonnet below the windscreen between the windscreen washers. If you look at the pics the first one is a Taimar (ignore the second , its a 3000S and is totally different). You will see 2 "extensions from the top of the dash, the 2 bolts go through these behind the dash 2BA from memory. This is a 2 man job, one inside car and one under bonnet. The other 2 are in the door shuts and go through the ends of the dash. Once you have undone these you should be able to pull the dash forward. DO THIS VERY GENTLY, it is easy to pull off wires so do not pull it any more than it wants to go. You should now be able to see behind dash and get your hands in. TAKE PHOTOS. start by carefully removing the heater trunking to give yourself more room and visibility.
Now one by one disconnect the wires from each instrument in turn, remove the brackets holding in that instrument and reconnect everything as it came off and leave it behind the dash. Repeat this for each instrument and then each switch till everything is disconected. Now remove the heater controls in the same manner, you may want to lubricate the cables before refitting. The dash panel should now be free to be removed. If you have any dodgy wiring now is the time to fix it and clean ALL earthing points. Swap over glove box ans eyeball vents etc...
As they say in all the best Haynes manuals, reassembly is the reverse of the above.. When reconnecting its always a good idea to remove all the fuses before reconnecting the battery and replace them (preferably with new ones.... they do get corroded and affect current) one by one so that if you have got a problem it is not a huge one and it helps identify which part of the wiring the problem is in. Good luck. sTeVeR
Edited by thegamekeeper on Saturday 17th March 18:18
Edited by thegamekeeper on Saturday 17th March 18:19
Edited by thegamekeeper on Saturday 17th March 18:20
thegamekeeper said:
get under car and disconnect speedo cable.
Every cars different and all that stuff.... but on mine there's a piece of carpet that pulls out from under the dash and the speedo cable can then be disconnected from the speedo head, no need to go under the car.Be careful with the oil gauge, it's mechanical not electrical, there is a thin capillary pipe taking oil to it. Get that leaking and you will have a mess behind the dash !
Cheers for the advice!! 
After looking closer (when fitting head unit) thing don't seem so bad after all. Its just the un-lit dials I'd like to check/fix and change the resistor to the new type I have.
I've been told that it'd be mounted to the speedo itself but aren't sure it is.
does it have a typical location?
After looking closer (when fitting head unit) thing don't seem so bad after all. Its just the un-lit dials I'd like to check/fix and change the resistor to the new type I have.
I've been told that it'd be mounted to the speedo itself but aren't sure it is.
does it have a typical location?
whitewolf said:
I've been told that it'd be mounted to the speedo itself but aren't sure it is.
That was a common place for Ford to fit them years agowhitewolf said:
does it have a typical location?
Mine is not attached to anything, just hanging off the wires to the left of the radio holeOE bi-metal versions HAVE to be earthed (in some form or another) to dissipate the voltage down , as I have until recently sold/supplied/fitted soldered on earth cable to attach to a gauge for this, independent of the standard earth tag (I only supply electronic versions now).
The unit is normally screwed to the back of the dash near the volt meter.
On 79 on cars and 3000S's (with no positive/negative posts) this gets moved to the drivers side dashboard.
Adrian@
The unit is normally screwed to the back of the dash near the volt meter.
On 79 on cars and 3000S's (with no positive/negative posts) this gets moved to the drivers side dashboard.
Adrian@
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