Discussion
Finally looked at the instruments and found why the bulbs weren't working. one bulb was cross threaded and the other disconnected from the wiring loom.
Then after playing about and fixing it I realised the head unit it/was pushing the wires out.
So I've extended one wire and fitted the head unit with the lights connections above the head unit out of the way.
Then after lookin for replacement I'm fancying leds. brighter less power (2.2w :-/ ) and run cold. ok not a massive benefit but I like the idea.
I can't see on the net anywhere led 987's so...
bulb broken. the screw casing separate from glass part.
here you can just make out a single centre wire. it appears to be soldered in so... can't i do solder that wire (base connector) get an led and solder the positive led leg into the base connector (and build back up the connector part) and the negative led leg to the screw casing?
Then after playing about and fixing it I realised the head unit it/was pushing the wires out.
So I've extended one wire and fitted the head unit with the lights connections above the head unit out of the way.
Then after lookin for replacement I'm fancying leds. brighter less power (2.2w :-/ ) and run cold. ok not a massive benefit but I like the idea.
I can't see on the net anywhere led 987's so...
bulb broken. the screw casing separate from glass part.
here you can just make out a single centre wire. it appears to be soldered in so... can't i do solder that wire (base connector) get an led and solder the positive led leg into the base connector (and build back up the connector part) and the negative led leg to the screw casing?
You can't just put in a bare LED where a bulb came out. It will melt. You need a resistor to limit the current.
LEDs typically run at about 20-30 Millamps, and expect approx 2 volts (red) through to about 3.5 Volts for the White ones.
A 470 ohm resistor gives 18 mA for an 8.5 Volt drop (Volts over resistance), which should be just right. If you want it dimmer, use a slightly higher value (say a 560 ohm for 15 mA), and lower for brighter (330 ohm gives 25 mA, probably safe upper limit)
There were a range of LEDs with the resistor built in, but not seen those around much...
So you can solder in a LED, but *WITH* a resistor in series with it.
Oh, and with a resistor, the LED won't break if you solder it in the wrong way round, it just won't light up, which is nice !
LEDs typically run at about 20-30 Millamps, and expect approx 2 volts (red) through to about 3.5 Volts for the White ones.
A 470 ohm resistor gives 18 mA for an 8.5 Volt drop (Volts over resistance), which should be just right. If you want it dimmer, use a slightly higher value (say a 560 ohm for 15 mA), and lower for brighter (330 ohm gives 25 mA, probably safe upper limit)
There were a range of LEDs with the resistor built in, but not seen those around much...
So you can solder in a LED, but *WITH* a resistor in series with it.
Oh, and with a resistor, the LED won't break if you solder it in the wrong way round, it just won't light up, which is nice !
Edited by RCK974X on Saturday 7th April 21:21
Yeah, should be a lot more reliable than a bulb !
OOps, I guess I should have used 14 volts instead of 12....assuming an alternator. So ristances will be a bit higher perhaps.
I just remembered, quite a few LEDs are fairly narrow 'beam' compared to a bulb, I think there are wider angle ones too (they have a slightly cloudy moulding to diffuse the light I think).
In the original instruments of course you can always bend the LED over a bit to get the right light spread...and use green or yellow if you fancy...
You could also link them to a central dimmer too of course, if you wanted to go that way.
OOps, I guess I should have used 14 volts instead of 12....assuming an alternator. So ristances will be a bit higher perhaps.
I just remembered, quite a few LEDs are fairly narrow 'beam' compared to a bulb, I think there are wider angle ones too (they have a slightly cloudy moulding to diffuse the light I think).
In the original instruments of course you can always bend the LED over a bit to get the right light spread...and use green or yellow if you fancy...
You could also link them to a central dimmer too of course, if you wanted to go that way.
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 8th April 03:47
Regarding narrow beams I ended up buying quite a few LEDs for the clocks in my S3C. Many had far too narrow a beam and only lit a bit of the clock face. Had to try a few to a nice diffuse light. Happy with the end result but it did cost a bit/take some time to get the right ones.
Don't have any of the details to hand but I could try and dig them out if you're interested?
Gary
Don't have any of the details to hand but I could try and dig them out if you're interested?
Gary
My next thing to consider is the angle of light.
i have some cheap nasty (10 delivered for 85p) which I've ran in my corsa for over a year and only one has failed. these on the bulb have a dished head. I'll post a pic to explain.
Not thought about colours tbh but sure is a good idea.
Next idea is SMD 's. I got some for the front marker lights which has 5 SMD on them... top and four sides-this if do-able could eliminate the beam angle issue straight away.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-5-SMD-LED-233-BA9S-T4W-BAYON...
only thing with these would be diameter in the bulb holder tube. based on this idea of SMD but not this connection for behind the dash.
i have some cheap nasty (10 delivered for 85p) which I've ran in my corsa for over a year and only one has failed. these on the bulb have a dished head. I'll post a pic to explain.
Not thought about colours tbh but sure is a good idea.
Next idea is SMD 's. I got some for the front marker lights which has 5 SMD on them... top and four sides-this if do-able could eliminate the beam angle issue straight away.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-5-SMD-LED-233-BA9S-T4W-BAYON...
only thing with these would be diameter in the bulb holder tube. based on this idea of SMD but not this connection for behind the dash.
After altering my search to e10
I've found...
http://www.futurlec.com/LED_Lamps.shtml
just now to find and English supplier
I've found...
http://www.futurlec.com/LED_Lamps.shtml
just now to find and English supplier
What do you reckon??
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Lamp-Bulb-12V-Warm-White-10...
Also would be interested in pics of the vixen when finished :-D
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Lamp-Bulb-12V-Warm-White-10...
Also would be interested in pics of the vixen when finished :-D
After altering my search to e10
I've found...
http://www.futurlec.com/LED_Lamps.shtml
just now to find and English supplier
I've found...
http://www.futurlec.com/LED_Lamps.shtml
just now to find and English supplier
Some years ago ,before you could buy strings of LED's I built them . I connected I think 5 in series for use on a 12 volt circuit. Using this system negates the use of resistors as 5 in series ads up to around 12 volts,6 equals around 14.2 volts, the voltage when the battery is fully charged. Trials may be required as to the number of LES's required .Items in series means when one goes open circuit the rest cannot work but in my experience LED's are very robust & not prone to blowing.The 5 or 6 in series could illuminate a number of gauges.If more are required string another set in parallel.
5 or 6 in series will work, good idea, forgot about that !!
I still reckon a resistor allows tuning of the brightness though, and it is hard to get the same kind of light spread from an LED, I agree.
Personally I would probably choose yellow over white, but haven't tried it out.
I have changed warning light bulbs for LEDS, which works well, especially for red and green !
I still reckon a resistor allows tuning of the brightness though, and it is hard to get the same kind of light spread from an LED, I agree.
Personally I would probably choose yellow over white, but haven't tried it out.
I have changed warning light bulbs for LEDS, which works well, especially for red and green !
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff