Gearbox advice
Discussion
Right, well, My Series one restoration has got as far as the gearbox. This is new territory for me. I've never stripped a box before and I am looking for a bit of advice on what to look for.
It's a 2000E bullet style box (obviously not an actual bullet box) and, judging by the state of the old clutch plate I found in the box of bits, there was a leak on the oil seal on the in put shaft, so at least that has to be addressed. I've so far, only taken off the two cover plates for a look-see. Everything turns smoothly, gears select fine. I can see no chips out of any teeth, and the synchro gears, what can see of them, look un damaged.
I was expecting to see chipped teeth and scratched gears, but not a bit of it. I was intending to do at least a partial strip down and inspect. So, what Do people think?
It's a 2000E bullet style box (obviously not an actual bullet box) and, judging by the state of the old clutch plate I found in the box of bits, there was a leak on the oil seal on the in put shaft, so at least that has to be addressed. I've so far, only taken off the two cover plates for a look-see. Everything turns smoothly, gears select fine. I can see no chips out of any teeth, and the synchro gears, what can see of them, look un damaged.
I was expecting to see chipped teeth and scratched gears, but not a bit of it. I was intending to do at least a partial strip down and inspect. So, what Do people think?
Reading around, I came to the conclusion that a bullet- type box was the type with a solid tail piece and two inspection plates, from the 2000E (maybe also 1600E). These are not actually true"bullet"gearboxes, as the internals are different.
The Burton Power website has an explanation, I think.
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-gu...
The Burton Power website has an explanation, I think.
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-gu...
Edited by Astacus on Saturday 28th April 12:38
if you just want to retain the original box and not replace with a 5 speed then my advice would be to replace spigot shaft bearing in flywheel, Crank rear seal, gearbox front and rear seal, Flush out box replace with new oil and box it up with a new clutch assembly, Paint it and try your luck.
Chances are being a ford box out of a road car it will be fine...its not as if the engine was pushing out 300 odd horsepower...
Leave a box re-build to those with all the specialist tools and knowledge required to do the job.
N.
Chances are being a ford box out of a road car it will be fine...its not as if the engine was pushing out 300 odd horsepower...
Leave a box re-build to those with all the specialist tools and knowledge required to do the job.
N.
heightswitch said:
if you just want to retain the original box and not replace with a 5 speed then my advice would be to replace spigot shaft bearing in flywheel, Crank rear seal, gearbox front and rear seal, Flush out box replace with new oil and box it up with a new clutch assembly, Paint it and try your luck.
Chances are being a ford box out of a road car it will be fine...its not as if the engine was pushing out 300 odd horsepower...
Leave a box re-build to those with all the specialist tools and knowledge required to do the job.
N.
Thanks Neil, that was what I was hoping to hear!,!Chances are being a ford box out of a road car it will be fine...its not as if the engine was pushing out 300 odd horsepower...
Leave a box re-build to those with all the specialist tools and knowledge required to do the job.
N.
I took my box, which is the three rail 2000E box to Hardy engineering. I was under the impression that this box was sometimes called a "bullet" box (detachable bell houseing with two inspection hatches on the tail caseing). My box had a chunk of steel missing from the collar that supports the main input shaft and they managed to find another one and replaced bearings and seals etc.
If you do change to a type 9 5 speed you will also needthe bellhousing as the bolt spacing is different to the earlier 4 speed, these usually have starter motor fixings on both sides so the exhaust manifold runs very close. Don't forget the later 5 speed has a larger dia input shaft so a mix and match clutch is required, I run a 5 speed in my S2 Vixen and a 4 speed in my 1600M both boxes have their merits you pay your money and make your choice. Geoff
There used to be a lot of rubbish and confusion talked about 'bullet boxes' and so on....
My understanding is that the Vixens were fitted with standard Ford 1600GT and matching gearbox, which was NOT a bullet box, and engine and box came from a Cortina (Mk2) 1600GT.
However, we all know that a lot of different gearboxes were around and they all fit the 4 pot blocks up to 2L Pinto, and even the Lotus, so you can't always be sure. You need an expert to tell you...
As for 5 speeder type 9, its bellhousing is different at the gbox end, so get an entire 4 pot gearbox from anything more or less (Sierra mainly I suspect) and it should go in. Box is slightly longer and mounting is further back, so you will need to adapt/replace the rear mouting plate. Gearstick is also a little further back, but not much.
My understanding is that the Vixens were fitted with standard Ford 1600GT and matching gearbox, which was NOT a bullet box, and engine and box came from a Cortina (Mk2) 1600GT.
However, we all know that a lot of different gearboxes were around and they all fit the 4 pot blocks up to 2L Pinto, and even the Lotus, so you can't always be sure. You need an expert to tell you...
As for 5 speeder type 9, its bellhousing is different at the gbox end, so get an entire 4 pot gearbox from anything more or less (Sierra mainly I suspect) and it should go in. Box is slightly longer and mounting is further back, so you will need to adapt/replace the rear mouting plate. Gearstick is also a little further back, but not much.
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