Advice needed
Advice needed
Author
Discussion

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Thursday 26th July 2012
quotequote all
Changed a water pipe earlier and also decided to change to my spare carb as mine was leaking from the return all over the engine...


Pulled the fuel feed pipe off the carb and the metal pipe insert came out with it... :-(

The return pipe was loose and leaking... :-(


Fitted my spare carb (no known condition) and it ran but wasn't happy. Played about with the fuel settings screws and seemed better.


Choke knocking off as should do. It splutters from idle to 2.5k revs then runs normal.



I then left it an hour and nipped out... Sputtering between idle to 2.5k again... Then about 4500it pops and bangs (leaning out?!) also the idle stayed at 1500 rpm on its own. So i turned the screw back to 750/800.


While hot i adjusted the carbs settings again, turned fueling up and ran better. Didn't lean out and was better at lower revs.


I then left it about an hour and a half and... Bag of knackers again!!!

Leaning out about 4k and barely run at lower revs, really struggling.





Im going to check timing and set the tappets, they need doing. Also going to get some carb cleaner and give the carb a good going over. I guess worst case would to be strip both carbs and fit the good pipe connectors to the good running carb.



Please, someone pass me ideas or help.
The only differences i can see between the carbs is the linkage was on the opposite side, but changed for mine for the Tvr. And there's a small pipe from the nsf of the carb, my original aimed towards the front then back into the carb, the new one just aims back into the carb. (can't see this being a problem)


Another note it at steady speeds it coughs jerks and has full powerloss/kill engine.





tvrski

248 posts

244 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
could it be an air leak between manifold and carb?

on my model carb, the fuel pipe is prone to come loose, so i took it out and glued it back in, a tie-rap secures it in case the glue fails (wich didn't in 10 years)

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
It could be an air leak i guess yes.


The carb came with a spare engine and looks like it hadn't been ran in a while... I didn't know how it would so just fitted and tried.


I'll spend some time this weekend looking/testing. Ill get her running and spray wd40 about, see if it affects the running. Also will check timing and bits.


Cheers so far :-)

phillpot

17,439 posts

205 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all


If it ran ok on old carb it ain't gonna be timing or tappets ?

Sounds like replacement carb needs a total strip 'n clean? I'd look at sorting the leaks and re-fit original.

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
Defiantly agreed o that one!!!


Will strip this and clean and try to glue. Araldite the metal inserts back into the carb or strip both build a good one

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
Araldite bought...






Couldn't get the top one out so gently tapped it in and cleaned the bottom one up.


A bit of Araldite on the side and a small part of the bottom on the insert. Pushed it in and turned. Smoothed top residue over and put some on the return pipe edge too.


Smoothed all over and blow down the pipes. No blockage so lets hope it works.





As toward the current carb (new spare) even cold the choke is stuck open :-s. I tested the part in boiling water and worked. However i used the thermo coupling off the old carb on the new one, was this a mistake?

GadgeS3C

4,684 posts

186 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
That carb does look like it's been buried in a peat bog for a while!

Give it a good clean Mick. It won't make any mechanical difference but it might make the carb pixies happy for a bit and they'll stop blocking jets at annoying times. It is a TVR after all wink

This is probably my least helpful post for some time I know...


whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
Ah... Thats my good one. It did ru. Perfectly well... The spare on now had oxidation/rust. Im having the feeling the internals are jammed or shot.


So if the araldite works I'll be stripping the naff one and rebuild. Also been advised to check my dizzy and as i have 3 spares to do one good one.


Tbh i just want my old carb back on and be able to go for a drive, not a splutter and stall!!!

It is nice being able to pop flames tho, especially when people sit on your rear ;-)

GadgeS3C

4,684 posts

186 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
Ah, in that case, for gawds sake don't clean it. wink

I understand - always annoying when things don't work when the sun is shining. Hope you get it sorted soon!

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
I acquired some carb cleaner today so it'll be shiny by tomorrow afternoon.


Just asking why, when i was at the shop and i contemplated 'araldite fast' i didn't get it...


90mins touch dry, 8hours hold dry and fully set 14hours!!! :-(





I know she'll be worth the wait :-)

GAjon

3,987 posts

235 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
Jeyes fluid, the drain cleaner, is pretty good at bringing up the outer of alloy carbs.

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Friday 27th July 2012
quotequote all
Oh... You tell me after i poured a full bottle neat down the hole where my ant nest was!!! Mind it work!!!

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

181 months

Saturday 28th July 2012
quotequote all
Mick,

Someone (some time ago(.....you perhaps ?), said a/spark, b/fuel c/air

Which, to all intends and purposes is right for an internal combustion engine, brings me to the following;

if you do spend a bit on coil/leads/dizzy (the spark part) why not pay( ) some attention to the fuel/air thing as well ?

Lately, with the help of a certain AV, i've 'reset' my carb, needing a gasket set, diaphragms, jets/mixture screws(i've got the specs, mail..) and so one + reset of fast idle, vacuum pull down AND a tune of pre-ignition and vacuum system and the engine ran like Lilley intended !

What i want to say is; carbs do get overlooked a lot when servicing, so do it ! get it right !, you will notice the difference, it'll change your cars performance !

Please let us know when done, and how it is behaving (a lot better, me thinks)

cheers

Frank

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Saturday 28th July 2012
quotequote all
Hi Frank.


I appreciate what your saying and you are correct.


The araldite set and i fitted my old carb. Turned the key and fired up. Played with the fueling and when restarted half hour later it fired 1st turn of the key... Something it hasn't for a while!!


The spare carb will be stripped and rebuilt. I did however find the 'return' pipe had been chemical metal minded it and also used to block it off... :-/

Nothing that can't be drilled out tho and fixed.




Been looking on capri forums at people filing down the 'air way' to 'streamline' and gain 'free horse power'

Im not sure I'll be following suit

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

181 months

Saturday 28th July 2012
quotequote all
Hi Mick,

Yup, got you, what i wanted to say is that there is to little attention to the carb, every now and again it needs a little attention (and a gasket/diaphragm set)

btw; congrats on your marriage (still dont understand why the missus/yourselves and your taimar arent in the same picture thou......)

best regards

Frank

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Saturday 28th July 2012
quotequote all
Thank you!!! It was a long story lol...

But mainly part for my photographer to have a go at something different.


Tvr feel amazing again!!! yes a little tinkering here and there goes along way :-)

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

181 months

Saturday 28th July 2012
quotequote all
that's the spirit ! Have fun !

njhucker

377 posts

282 months

Saturday 28th July 2012
quotequote all
Not sure I would use araldite, as it does tend to deteriorate after a few years. I had this on a Scimitar. It is a common problem. I used a some loctite bearing fit, and drilled fitted a grub screw as well.

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Sunday 29th July 2012
quotequote all
I was thinking if it was possible to try and tap and die threads onto both parts then bond back in. But i don't think it would be that easy and also in doing so it would create a larger 'gap to leak through' then the mating faces it currently has.