Full body off !!!! HELP.
Discussion
PATMAN
You need the following:-
1) Four strong lads
2) large amount of beer
3) large takeaway curry
4) Strong piece of wood or scaffold pole amount 7-8ft long
Then
a) remove bonnet and inner front arches. Chock wheels.
b) remove all interconnecting links and wires (ie detach steering column, etc, don't forget the handbrake!)
c) remove weight from the body (eg seats, unless your men are really strong). I have removed bodies with the doors and glass in but usually removed fuel tank and seats)
d) Undo all body bolts (haha they were rusted on wern't they, take an angle grinder to them, you weren't going to reuse them were you). You can ponce about with WD40 over serveral days, but whats the point.
e) position your four strong men at each wheel arch. Using a jack with a large spreader, jack up the body under the fuel tang and shove the piece of wood/scaffold pole through the rear wheel arch and out the other side. Use this to lift at the rear. If your rear arch men are vertically challenged, stand them on blocks of wood! At the front use the wheel arch.
f) Now the lift, using the four strong men, lift the body (it is good to supervise at this stage to ensure nothing is still attached). This is a two stage lift and for the first part the body comes back at an angle! First lift is to get the body with the seating position over the diff (where your men can have a rest). Second lift takes it from there and places it in your desired storage position, usually on suitably placed blocks of wood.
g) Serve copius amounts of beer and curry whilst everyone pokes holes (and fun) at your chassis. First time I did it someone attached the area around the diff with a childs rubber hammer, to see it crumble and dent was an eye-opener especially as it had been brained around Snetterton a couple of weeks earlier! The rails to look at very carefully are all the box section ones and the round rails at the sides (under the body and rear suspension pickup). These are all areas where TVR carefully put felt to hold the water or areas where dirt could be retained.
Its not that heavy and definitely not hard.
As a haynes book would say, refitting is the reverse procedure.
Hope that helps
davidy
>> Edited by davidy on Sunday 15th August 08:22
You need the following:-
1) Four strong lads
2) large amount of beer
3) large takeaway curry
4) Strong piece of wood or scaffold pole amount 7-8ft long
Then
a) remove bonnet and inner front arches. Chock wheels.
b) remove all interconnecting links and wires (ie detach steering column, etc, don't forget the handbrake!)
c) remove weight from the body (eg seats, unless your men are really strong). I have removed bodies with the doors and glass in but usually removed fuel tank and seats)
d) Undo all body bolts (haha they were rusted on wern't they, take an angle grinder to them, you weren't going to reuse them were you). You can ponce about with WD40 over serveral days, but whats the point.
e) position your four strong men at each wheel arch. Using a jack with a large spreader, jack up the body under the fuel tang and shove the piece of wood/scaffold pole through the rear wheel arch and out the other side. Use this to lift at the rear. If your rear arch men are vertically challenged, stand them on blocks of wood! At the front use the wheel arch.
f) Now the lift, using the four strong men, lift the body (it is good to supervise at this stage to ensure nothing is still attached). This is a two stage lift and for the first part the body comes back at an angle! First lift is to get the body with the seating position over the diff (where your men can have a rest). Second lift takes it from there and places it in your desired storage position, usually on suitably placed blocks of wood.
g) Serve copius amounts of beer and curry whilst everyone pokes holes (and fun) at your chassis. First time I did it someone attached the area around the diff with a childs rubber hammer, to see it crumble and dent was an eye-opener especially as it had been brained around Snetterton a couple of weeks earlier! The rails to look at very carefully are all the box section ones and the round rails at the sides (under the body and rear suspension pickup). These are all areas where TVR carefully put felt to hold the water or areas where dirt could be retained.
Its not that heavy and definitely not hard.
As a haynes book would say, refitting is the reverse procedure.
Hope that helps
davidy
>> Edited by davidy on Sunday 15th August 08:22
Hi Paul,
I took a slightly different approach to the above involving lifting the rear end with an engine crane, this enabled me to lift the body up and pull the chassis away without needing to strip the body down completely.
Also be carefull of the bonnet - when you remove the second bolt the weight transfers to the supporting cast and it becomes about ten times heavier! also don't forget to remove the cable stay for the bonnet.
e-mail me if you need any info.
Andy.
I took a slightly different approach to the above involving lifting the rear end with an engine crane, this enabled me to lift the body up and pull the chassis away without needing to strip the body down completely.
Also be carefull of the bonnet - when you remove the second bolt the weight transfers to the supporting cast and it becomes about ten times heavier! also don't forget to remove the cable stay for the bonnet.
e-mail me if you need any info.
Andy.
Hi Boys,
Well decided to dig in get the body off , took ages to disc off nuts , only rear two came off with spanner , the two up in the wheel arches proved a little challenging but we got there,all bolts off everything disconnected could only get onr person in to come round for lift. We managed to separate body and chassis lots of rust fall off . will lift body clear on Wednesday . Update u all then.
Thanks for advice helped no end .
PATMAN
Well decided to dig in get the body off , took ages to disc off nuts , only rear two came off with spanner , the two up in the wheel arches proved a little challenging but we got there,all bolts off everything disconnected could only get onr person in to come round for lift. We managed to separate body and chassis lots of rust fall off . will lift body clear on Wednesday . Update u all then.
Thanks for advice helped no end .
PATMAN
Hi Boys,
Body off , chssis fell to pieces around top rails behind seats, bloke who had it before me was going to race car , chssis would have broke up on first bend !!!!. Having chassis rebuilt , going to use 16 g box and tube , is that ok , what do u think about having metal work galvanised before painting , local firm offers treatment at reasonable price .Hardest job now is keeping cover on body outside. Looks a like a lot of bits lying about , hope they all go back .
Body off , chssis fell to pieces around top rails behind seats, bloke who had it before me was going to race car , chssis would have broke up on first bend !!!!. Having chassis rebuilt , going to use 16 g box and tube , is that ok , what do u think about having metal work galvanised before painting , local firm offers treatment at reasonable price .Hardest job now is keeping cover on body outside. Looks a like a lot of bits lying about , hope they all go back .
Thought about gaLvanising the chassis but was advised that the heat process may affect the geometry. When refitting the chassis use some "closed bubble" type foam this does not retain the water. Have you considered fitting some mounting plates for a roll cage before fitting the body back?
>> Edited by mk1 on Tuesday 31st August 18:09
>> Edited by mk1 on Tuesday 31st August 18:09
Don't bother with galvanising. I had my chassis redone and zinc sprayed, then ran out of money and motivation and left the chassis in a shed which gets very wet when it rains (stream over the floor job!) Five years later we pulled the chassis out - not a spot of rust anywhere - it looked like new
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