TAIMAR rear brake upgrade?
Discussion
GadgeS3C said:
David Gerald do a disc conversion. I'm sure Adrian Venn would also be able to advise.
Dare I ask - why?
It worries me looking at drums on the rear!Dare I ask - why?
Im also having the chassis restored and its obviously the best time to consider doing the upgrades if needed!
Also into the mix is the possibility of not getting the V6 engine running again, and if that happens I need to look into what possible engines could replace the 3.0 V6, and so, in a huge roundabout way, I will need to upgrade the brakes...!
Currently on the list is
2.0 zetec blacktop
Honda type R
I await the flaming from the purists!
Stu
hallsie said:
It worries me looking at drums on the rear!
Im also having the chassis restored and its obviously the best time to consider doing the upgrades if needed!
Also into the mix is the possibility of not getting the V6 engine running again, and if that happens I need to look into what possible engines could replace the 3.0 V6, and so, in a huge roundabout way, I will need to upgrade the brakes...!
Currently on the list is
2.0 zetec blacktop
Honda type R
I await the flaming from the purists!
Stu
Stu,Im also having the chassis restored and its obviously the best time to consider doing the upgrades if needed!
Also into the mix is the possibility of not getting the V6 engine running again, and if that happens I need to look into what possible engines could replace the 3.0 V6, and so, in a huge roundabout way, I will need to upgrade the brakes...!
Currently on the list is
2.0 zetec blacktop
Honda type R
I await the flaming from the purists!
Stu
The fronts are the limiting braking factor. Alfins at the rear with trick shoes from Cambridge Motor Sport certainly provide adequate stopping power for most fast road and track day use when combined with uprated fronts.
I've run my racer for 5 years on drums and only now am I looking at rear discs in a bid to improve overall braking.
A purist...
TVR_owner said:
Stu,
The fronts are the limiting braking factor. Alfins at the rear with trick shoes from Cambridge Motor Sport certainly provide adequate stopping power for most fast road and track day use when combined with uprated fronts.
I've run my racer for 5 years on drums and only now am I looking at rear discs in a bid to improve overall braking.
A purist...
John is your car rebuilt yet ?The fronts are the limiting braking factor. Alfins at the rear with trick shoes from Cambridge Motor Sport certainly provide adequate stopping power for most fast road and track day use when combined with uprated fronts.
I've run my racer for 5 years on drums and only now am I looking at rear discs in a bid to improve overall braking.
A purist...
Dont forget the pics you promised of the beutiful 3000m of yours
sarbec said:
John is your car rebuilt yet ?
Dont forget the pics you promised of the beutiful 3000m of yours
Ivor,Dont forget the pics you promised of the beutiful 3000m of yours
It's no where near LOL..
The man thats doing the work has active race cars that take priority, but after this weekend we should see a bit more progress.
Summary...Its in bits.
Some little bits are coming back from plating (including wishbones and drive shafts), diff carrier being reworked to reduce weight, new mag diff being assembled with correct ramp angles etc, chassis tubes being replaced (been drilled for that many cages over the years some sections look like the mice have been at them...) so nothing to look at just yet
TVR_owner said:
hallsie said:
It worries me looking at drums on the rear!
Im also having the chassis restored and its obviously the best time to consider doing the upgrades if needed!
Also into the mix is the possibility of not getting the V6 engine running again, and if that happens I need to look into what possible engines could replace the 3.0 V6, and so, in a huge roundabout way, I will need to upgrade the brakes...!
Currently on the list is
2.0 zetec blacktop
Honda type R
I await the flaming from the purists!
Stu
Stu,Im also having the chassis restored and its obviously the best time to consider doing the upgrades if needed!
Also into the mix is the possibility of not getting the V6 engine running again, and if that happens I need to look into what possible engines could replace the 3.0 V6, and so, in a huge roundabout way, I will need to upgrade the brakes...!
Currently on the list is
2.0 zetec blacktop
Honda type R
I await the flaming from the purists!
Stu
The fronts are the limiting braking factor. Alfins at the rear with trick shoes from Cambridge Motor Sport certainly provide adequate stopping power for most fast road and track day use when combined with uprated fronts.
I've run my racer for 5 years on drums and only now am I looking at rear discs in a bid to improve overall braking.
A purist...
Itll be easier to leave the rears as they are, and as youve been racing with the drums on the rear then thats all I need to know for reassurance.
Ill upgrade the fronts for sure, but I want to see how in need of fettling they are after 16 years standing.
Regarding the 'purist' comment/jibe, I would much rather keep the originality in the car, especially as it hasnt been played with to date.
Ive got 2 wedge FHC 2+2s, one of which I have returned to original interior and played with the V6 engine to return better power and unleaded status with stage 2 heads, and the other V8 will have a chassis once the Taimar is finished, again back to original status.
But I must be realsitic, if the V6 essex engine is too far gone and as I suspect, in need of an unleaded conversion, then perhaps the engine change will be the better and more driveable option.
Time will tell, and thanks for the replies, keep them coming
Stu
TVR_owner said:
Stu,
TVRs running in HSCC 70s road sports run with standard calipers, discs and drums. They can only play with linings/pads, fluids and bias valves. There cars are limited to min 970 kg so not light for a racer.
Some of those cars are pushing 240+ BHP. They seem to cope
That sounds promising then!TVRs running in HSCC 70s road sports run with standard calipers, discs and drums. They can only play with linings/pads, fluids and bias valves. There cars are limited to min 970 kg so not light for a racer.
Some of those cars are pushing 240+ BHP. They seem to cope
A simple strip and rebuild for the calipers and drums should suffice then!
I can see me asking a lot more questions that have simplistic answers, which will make me happy.
Thanks
Stu
People tend to forget that 9 inch drums are quite large..they were originally designed for stopping triumph saloon cars so any light weight sports car starts with an advantage straight away...unless you want extra bragging rights down the pub then as John says don't bother..The first thing you would do with rear disks is install a proportioning valve or bias bar set up and wind off 85% of the stopping power so that the rears didn't lock before the fronts.
N.
N.
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