Best repair manual for M series
Discussion
I have a Taimar with standard Essex 3L V6. Before going out and buying the Haynes manuals for the TR6 and Capri in order to get all the info on the suspension and engine, can anyone recommend anything better?
I already have the Haynes Spitfire manual from 25 years ago when I had one, is this similar enough for me to not need the TR6 one?
Any advice gratefully received before I go foraging on Amazon...
PS this all started off when I read the recent post on a ticking noise coming from the engine, and I thought that it sounded very familiar. I've noticed an oil mist on the front outside edge of the engine and am starting to suspect that the problem is more related to a blown head gasket than a leaking manifold gasket, hence the need to read up on head removal in a decent manual.
I already have the Haynes Spitfire manual from 25 years ago when I had one, is this similar enough for me to not need the TR6 one?
Any advice gratefully received before I go foraging on Amazon...
PS this all started off when I read the recent post on a ticking noise coming from the engine, and I thought that it sounded very familiar. I've noticed an oil mist on the front outside edge of the engine and am starting to suspect that the problem is more related to a blown head gasket than a leaking manifold gasket, hence the need to read up on head removal in a decent manual.
I would strongly urge you to get the right tool(s) for the job at hand.
Information is a tool.
Get a TR6 factory workshop manual, a Capri factory workshop manual, and take it to a specialist for any job you can't tackle with absolute confidence. Then, you can be happy in the knowledge that your investment is properly protected.
It took well over a year of working at one of the world's largest automotive literature retailers to come to this realization, and the additional year of comparing Haynes, Chilton's, Clymer's, Autobooks, Gregory's, Ellery's, Russek, Technibooks, and various others bore it out.
The only notable exception is Bentley, and Autobooks are second, but not that close. Olyslager books are interesting, but I'd hate to use one as the only guide for any car.
Best,
B.
Information is a tool.
Get a TR6 factory workshop manual, a Capri factory workshop manual, and take it to a specialist for any job you can't tackle with absolute confidence. Then, you can be happy in the knowledge that your investment is properly protected.
It took well over a year of working at one of the world's largest automotive literature retailers to come to this realization, and the additional year of comparing Haynes, Chilton's, Clymer's, Autobooks, Gregory's, Ellery's, Russek, Technibooks, and various others bore it out.
The only notable exception is Bentley, and Autobooks are second, but not that close. Olyslager books are interesting, but I'd hate to use one as the only guide for any car.
Best,
B.
Haynes manuals are, imho, a generally readily available and cheap 'n cheerful good starting point. Anything they fail to provide could well be found in a genuine workshop manual but a lot of money when 90% or so of what they contain will be totally irrelavent to a TVR.
full workshop manuals also, in my experience, make reference to a multitude of "special tools", we had a stores full of such things when I worked at a Ford Main Dealer. Haynes books on the other hand often offer alternative tools, methods or ways around the problem?
Then, there is of course the "internet" and various Forums !
Hi i have both the Capri and the Granada Haynes Manuals which Colin who owned the car before the person i bought it from still had so he passed these on to me with lots of other bits when i bought the original wheels from him and where really useful when i did the head gasket change with your car not having regular use for some time the rocker cover gaskets at least may have dried out.
I had never done it before and once i had her stripped down i did get some help with re fitting for piece of mind very rewarding though doing the gob especially when she started up first turn of the key.
Whatever you do get a really good quality set as there are some cheap rubbish sets out there,you pay for what you get.
Have a go and follow the manual and dont be afraid to ask advice here or elsewhere they can only make fun of your inexperience but when you get it right the joke will be on them???
I had never done it before and once i had her stripped down i did get some help with re fitting for piece of mind very rewarding though doing the gob especially when she started up first turn of the key.
Whatever you do get a really good quality set as there are some cheap rubbish sets out there,you pay for what you get.
Have a go and follow the manual and dont be afraid to ask advice here or elsewhere they can only make fun of your inexperience but when you get it right the joke will be on them???
Many thanks to all for your advice : if I go for a Haynes is there any advantage in getting the Granada one rather than a Capri one?
I should add that I'm not completely clueless having previously changed head gaskets on a Spitfire and a Midget, rebuilt a Weber on a Fiat X1/9, changed bearings, suspension, Spitfire trunnions and various other jobs. I really need something like the Haynes book in order to do things in the right order and with the workarounds avoiding the special tools. The torque settings will also be useful.
Have just been to the French MOT this evening before putting my car on French plates, it only failed on the hand brake cable which needs adjustment. I got to see the car from underneath for the first time - the chassis is very clean except for two small patches of surface rust which will be very easy to treat and paint - but what is the type of red paint which has been used? The chassis was fitted by David Gerald around 22 years ago, but is still in excellent condition.
I was also told I need to change the headlights, but he didn't put this on the failure list giving me time to consider my options.
I should add that I'm not completely clueless having previously changed head gaskets on a Spitfire and a Midget, rebuilt a Weber on a Fiat X1/9, changed bearings, suspension, Spitfire trunnions and various other jobs. I really need something like the Haynes book in order to do things in the right order and with the workarounds avoiding the special tools. The torque settings will also be useful.
Have just been to the French MOT this evening before putting my car on French plates, it only failed on the hand brake cable which needs adjustment. I got to see the car from underneath for the first time - the chassis is very clean except for two small patches of surface rust which will be very easy to treat and paint - but what is the type of red paint which has been used? The chassis was fitted by David Gerald around 22 years ago, but is still in excellent condition.
I was also told I need to change the headlights, but he didn't put this on the failure list giving me time to consider my options.
OK, so I've just ordered a new Ford Capri V6 Haynes and a 2nd hand Granada one on Amazon France, plus a new TR6 one on eBay.
Now I'm on the look out for products to treat the small rust patches on the chassis, then prime and paint them. It's frustrating to see the range of products available in the UK (eg Bilt Hamber zinc based primer and rust treatment, POR15, etc.) as none of it is easily transportable to France. The choice of products here seems to be stuck in the stone age in comparison...
Now I'm on the look out for products to treat the small rust patches on the chassis, then prime and paint them. It's frustrating to see the range of products available in the UK (eg Bilt Hamber zinc based primer and rust treatment, POR15, etc.) as none of it is easily transportable to France. The choice of products here seems to be stuck in the stone age in comparison...
On an older chassis cant see anything wrong with a rub down and a couple of coats of Hammerite with a little thinners in or even spray Hammerite when i was building Caravan Chassis we used a b
humen based industrial paint was fairly good probably still got some in the lungs somewhere even after 30 years messy job and i hated wearing a mask (the silly things you do at 18) especially when i came in at 8am and they wanted a Chassis built sprayed and dry in the factory for that afternoon with only 2 of us in the fabricating shed,good old days wish i had the space and equipment i had then now,
Just realised begining to sound like an old Man?
Andrew
humen based industrial paint was fairly good probably still got some in the lungs somewhere even after 30 years messy job and i hated wearing a mask (the silly things you do at 18) especially when i came in at 8am and they wanted a Chassis built sprayed and dry in the factory for that afternoon with only 2 of us in the fabricating shed,good old days wish i had the space and equipment i had then now,Just realised begining to sound like an old Man?
Andrew
I'm loving the car, every drive puts a smile on my face. It's just suffering from lack of use (the records show it's done around 1000 miles over the last 10 years), although it's been maintained. I shall use it and improve it as I go. The plan is to use it as a daily driver when it gets warmer.
As someone else on here mentioned I'm still in the "magpie" stage, where I keep picking up bits and pieces here and there while I wait for a bit less snow so I can get out there and get things done (I have a black Tex mirror to put on the passenger side as it's a pain driving on the right without one, a new chrome ashtray, a couple of new green backlit rocker switches, a Powerspark electronic ignition kit, some exhaust manifold gaskets, some EP90 GL4 for the trunnions which was pretty hard to track down at a reasonable price, a selection of 70's and 80's Becker Europa radios, etc.).
I'm also looking forward to having a bit of a rummage for parts in the autojumble section at Retromobile at Porte de Versailles in a couple of weeks. The French MOT man told me I need to change the headlights to LHD ones when I get the chance and there might be some there.
As someone else on here mentioned I'm still in the "magpie" stage, where I keep picking up bits and pieces here and there while I wait for a bit less snow so I can get out there and get things done (I have a black Tex mirror to put on the passenger side as it's a pain driving on the right without one, a new chrome ashtray, a couple of new green backlit rocker switches, a Powerspark electronic ignition kit, some exhaust manifold gaskets, some EP90 GL4 for the trunnions which was pretty hard to track down at a reasonable price, a selection of 70's and 80's Becker Europa radios, etc.).
I'm also looking forward to having a bit of a rummage for parts in the autojumble section at Retromobile at Porte de Versailles in a couple of weeks. The French MOT man told me I need to change the headlights to LHD ones when I get the chance and there might be some there.
I presume that when people mention Hammerite, it's actually the Smoothrite version rather than the hammered finish?
My chassis has been painted a not very dark red (there is some red insulating tape on it in places to hold the wiring in place and this seems pretty close), and I'm wondering if it's a standard shade for TVR chassis of that era, and whether there is a Hammerite shade which is close.
I'm guessing I would need to use a degreaser, then a rust treatment (the rust converter type like Jenolite?) beforehand.
My chassis has been painted a not very dark red (there is some red insulating tape on it in places to hold the wiring in place and this seems pretty close), and I'm wondering if it's a standard shade for TVR chassis of that era, and whether there is a Hammerite shade which is close.
I'm guessing I would need to use a degreaser, then a rust treatment (the rust converter type like Jenolite?) beforehand.
english2 said:
I presume that when people mention Hammerite, it's actually the Smoothrite version rather than the hammered finish?
My chassis has been painted a not very dark red (there is some red insulating tape on it in places to hold the wiring in place and this seems pretty close), and I'm wondering if it's a standard shade for TVR chassis of that era, and whether there is a Hammerite shade which is close.
I'm guessing I would need to use a degreaser, then a rust treatment (the rust converter type like Jenolite?) beforehand.
Yes degreaser rust treatment if you want although smoothrite has its own built in rust inhibitor and may react to the chemicals in the Smootrite i paited rusty gates 10 years ago with it no primer out in all weathers and only now need refreshingMy chassis has been painted a not very dark red (there is some red insulating tape on it in places to hold the wiring in place and this seems pretty close), and I'm wondering if it's a standard shade for TVR chassis of that era, and whether there is a Hammerite shade which is close.
I'm guessing I would need to use a degreaser, then a rust treatment (the rust converter type like Jenolite?) beforehand.
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