oil pressure switch
oil pressure switch
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Discussion

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
Toying with the idea of having a oil pressure switch and light on dash in conjunction with the pressure gauge.

Although I have read both 1/4 & 1/8 npt.

Am I picking up on something rare or wrong here? I have a oil pressure switch on my spare engine, will try that in my engine block and go from there if not.


From the Burton power magazine I have it all seems simple, just defining which thread.


Any suggestions?

I don't have a tap and die set for this thread so can't answer myself :-(

Comadis

1,731 posts

245 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
take the switch from the spare engine and measure the (external) diameter of the thread with a vernier caliper

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
I don't have any calipers... :-(

RCK974X

2,521 posts

171 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
You can buy 'T' pieces which have correct threads for press switch and gauge pipe/sender. Merlin Motorsport used to do them, but you should be able to get them from ordinray plumbers merchants (the bigger ones with more stock) as they are standard pipe threads on 1600 engines.

Some later engines (eg Cologne V6) went to metric threads, but you can still get adaptors to screw it all together.... The Cologne V6 has an imperial pipe thread for its temp sender, but a metric oil switch thread !

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
I see your point.

Why couldnt they make things simple??

Think I'll see if I can get to the local plumbers while at work and take my oil switch with me.


Also when the 't' piece is fitted, does it came a difference which is fitted at the end or side. To me, its just hydraulic and pressure should be the same at both options. But I've had some older people telling me its different, which I don't fully believe.

62GRANTIII

199 posts

215 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
SOME ESSEX V6's ARE 1/8 NPT FEMALE SOME ARE 1/4 NPT (both taper)
I AERO-QUIPPED MINE TO A 'T' PIECE BEHIND DASH, FROM 'T' PIECE TO GAUGE & TO AN ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE SWITCH.
MINE SET TO 25 psi, HOPEFULLY OK TO SAVE ENGINE.
IF ANYBODY STILL USING ORIGINAL WEE NYLON LINE TO OIL PRESS GAUGE, CHANGE IT OUT FOR AN A-QUIP LINE YESTERDAY, IT's ALOT CHEAPER THAN A NEW ENGINE
CHEERS IAN

Comadis

1,731 posts

245 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
whitewolf said:
I don't have any calipers... :-(
visit your local DIY store, take the switch with you, take a caliper from the shelf, measure the thread and put the caliper back...easy, isnt it?

Cerberus90

1,553 posts

235 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
or just buy one, biggrin.

Very useful tool to have, even the aldi digital one that we've got, biggrin

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
That is easy yes.

Also buying one for keeps would be an advantage.

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
Would this help at all?






phillpot

17,439 posts

205 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all

Should make no difference what goes where on the tee, as you say, hydraulic pressure is a great equalizer!


1/8bsp is about 10mm dia.

1/4 bsp is more like 13mm dia.

Cheap enough... clicky

use appropriate open end spanners to measure.

Cut a slot into a piece of cardboard until thread will just slide in, measure width of slot with ruler (got one? wink )

It's a bit tight down in that gap were the oil pipe goes, remote tee, as suggested, sounds a good idea although when I fitted oil warning light to mine I did manage to get the tee down there.

Can't find a picture of the Taimar, this is my S bit different (electric pressure gauge) but does show i/4 to 1/8 reducing hex nipple into block and 1/8 tee for switch and sender. I went for stainless but brass or iron would do fine.


whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Tuesday 22nd January 2013
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Should make no difference what goes where on the tee, as you say, hydraulic pressure is a great equalizer!


1/8bsp is about 10mm dia.

1/4 bsp is more like 13mm dia.

Cheap enough... clicky

use appropriate open end spanners to measure.

Cut a slot into a piece of cardboard until thread will just slide in, measure width of slot with ruler (got one? wink )

It's a bit tight down in that gap were the oil pipe goes, remote tee, as suggested, sounds a good idea although when I fitted oil warning light to mine I did manage to get the tee down there.

Can't find a picture of the Taimar, this is my S bit different (electric pressure gauge) but does show i/4 to 1/8 reducing hex nipple into block and 1/8 tee for switch and sender. I went for stainless but brass or iron would do fine.

Mike, as always you have an answer and a picture - you legend!!!

Yes I have s ruler and open end spanners.

I'm happy to say its 13mm thread and so 1/4.

Onwards tomorrow to a plumbing place and an old car shop.

phillpot

17,439 posts

205 months

Saturday 26th January 2013
quotequote all

Got it sorted yet Mick?

picture of the real thing...... wink


whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Saturday 26th January 2013
quotequote all
Not yet Mike no.

Payday tomorrow and a customer has a spare t piece. So gonna have a go when I get it. If not I'm gonna wait a bit longer and buy all the bits I need. It may end up being a 1/8 oil pressure switch then using my spare engine donor one.


Other option is my mate works with tapered airline connectors company and may have a bit I can use. Just gotta look in his van ;-)

62GRANTIII

199 posts

215 months

Saturday 26th January 2013
quotequote all
THE BLACK NYLON LINE IN PIC ABOVE IS THE ONE WHICH, NEEDS PROMPT REPLACEMENT.
WHEN IT FAILS YOU WILL BE AMAZED HOW FAST SUMP CONTENTS CAN BE DUMPED.
Cheers. Ian

phillpot

17,439 posts

205 months

Saturday 26th January 2013
quotequote all

Do you speak from personal experience ?

It seems to have held out ok for the last 36 years or does that mean I'm on "borrowed time" ?

Do they split, fracture, pop of the end fittings or just chaff through if not carefully routed?

If gauge end failed a sump full of oil behind the dash would be interesting !!!!

Slow M

2,862 posts

228 months

Saturday 26th January 2013
quotequote all
62GRANTIII said:
THE BLACK NYLON LINE IN PIC ABOVE IS THE ONE WHICH, NEEDS PROMPT REPLACEMENT.
WHEN IT FAILS YOU WILL BE AMAZED HOW FAST THE HOT SUMP CONTENTS CAN BE DUMPED INTO YOUR LAP.
Cheers. Ian
BOLD EDITS by me.

Had that hot oil treatment once. (Frogeye?)

Best,
B.

dryden

361 posts

191 months

Sunday 27th January 2013
quotequote all
Mike, I speak from expierience.....! Mine let go on the M5 a couple of years ago! I smelt it before I saw the gauge......Luckily not far from services where I got some fresh oil! good chassis rustproofing technique...... !

dryden

361 posts

191 months

Sunday 27th January 2013
quotequote all
Just to add... Mine had split on the end, and I bodged it back on simply by cutting the split bit off and pushing the pipe back on a still hot engine..Phew.. close one!

whitewolf

Original Poster:

751 posts

188 months

Sunday 27th January 2013
quotequote all
Well, my friend brought me this...



However its 1/4 thread, its bsp ot ntp

So my easiest answer is a t piece and buy a 1/8 oil pressure switch.

After being Phillpots photo it all seems nicer looking.