Discussion
Tried starting the Taimar today, fresh fuel and fully charged battery...
After deciding that I've flooded the engine I decided to remove the spark plugs and clean.
still nothing. so connected a spare spark plug to a HT lead and nothing.
connected the king lead to a spark plug and nothing.
Using a multimeter from the coil + to battery earth - 0v.
Checked fuse box to battery earth with multimeter, 3 out of 4 are 12v and the one closest the drivers side is 0v.
from the back of the fuse box I followed the thickest wire (on fuse nearest driver) and this goes to a connector to the ignition barrel.
On a spare note I decided to try if anything else works- no side lights or dip beam. Full beam works but this is wired through a relay.
Can anybody share any suggestions or ideas?
I have a theoretical circuit diagram and a triumph diagram I got off here.
After deciding that I've flooded the engine I decided to remove the spark plugs and clean.
still nothing. so connected a spare spark plug to a HT lead and nothing.
connected the king lead to a spark plug and nothing.
Using a multimeter from the coil + to battery earth - 0v.
Checked fuse box to battery earth with multimeter, 3 out of 4 are 12v and the one closest the drivers side is 0v.
from the back of the fuse box I followed the thickest wire (on fuse nearest driver) and this goes to a connector to the ignition barrel.
On a spare note I decided to try if anything else works- no side lights or dip beam. Full beam works but this is wired through a relay.
Can anybody share any suggestions or ideas?
I have a theoretical circuit diagram and a triumph diagram I got off here.
Grantura MKI said:
Check your coil for over heating with the inginion in then position.
I have spare coils so can try that too. Managed to trace the wire from the ignition barrel to the fuse (also the thickest wire) so shall test for voltage at that point too.
Really baffled as when I put her away about 4 weeks, back into the garage, all was fine.
Have you checked to see if you have a ballast resistor, mine is situated on the drivers side inner front guard.Mine had a bad connection therefor no spark.All TVR's wiring appear to be different so it is just a matter of tracing the circuit possibly right back to the ign switch. Ballast resistored coils are 8 volt coils.
Adrian@ said:
BUT as you have power no power to the lights..then it is a supply issue...either from the starter mains feeds from-to-from the fuse box (bulkhead connectors) or fuse box.
Adrian@
PS IF you have glass fuses that have plates internally rather than wires....throw them away, and get wire version.
Adrian, I understand that part so shall navigate further.Adrian@
PS IF you have glass fuses that have plates internally rather than wires....throw them away, and get wire version.
Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 3rd February 09:19
I dl have the non wire version fuses. These are new and used since having the car on the road since last March. The one fuse without power is a thin wire one. (irony)
I'll get some more spares regardless.
Thank you (so far!)
I was going to try that but didn't have anything to hand plus it was late (10:00 ish) and the Mrs always complains of noise.
I shall try later and go for an elimination process.
One thing I didn't check was continuity of the fuse, but I did check the actual fuse terminals with the multimeter.
I shall try later and go for an elimination process.
One thing I didn't check was continuity of the fuse, but I did check the actual fuse terminals with the multimeter.
Mick, I'd echo what Adrian said about the fuses - check 'em.
I had problems with our M last year, didn't check the fuses 'cos they were all new. When I checked over 50% of the new (glass with blade type) fuses I had were duff - fresh out the packet.
Might not be that but I wasted quite a couple of hours because I didn't check them.
I had problems with our M last year, didn't check the fuses 'cos they were all new. When I checked over 50% of the new (glass with blade type) fuses I had were duff - fresh out the packet.
Might not be that but I wasted quite a couple of hours because I didn't check them.
GadgeS3C said:
Mick, I'd echo what Adrian said about the fuses - check 'em.
I had problems with our M last year, didn't check the fuses 'cos they were all new. When I checked over 50% of the new (glass with blade type) fuses I had were duff - fresh out the packet.
Might not be that but I wasted quite a couple of hours because I didn't check them.
True. I shall have to check everything.I had problems with our M last year, didn't check the fuses 'cos they were all new. When I checked over 50% of the new (glass with blade type) fuses I had were duff - fresh out the packet.
Might not be that but I wasted quite a couple of hours because I didn't check them.
The Mrs has me going shopping with her, I'd rather be tinkering with the car Tbh... Wasted time now :-(
Had "an issue" with mine going to Chatsworth last year, thought it might have been rain related (was a little wet) but turned out that the fuses were loose in the holders. Squeezed the clips together and problem sorted!
One or maybe two of these will be replacing that ancient Lucas 4 fuse box soon...
I'll have a box of glass fuses spare but they are mostly the flat strip type not a wire element.
Hope yours turns out to be something equally simple
One or maybe two of these will be replacing that ancient Lucas 4 fuse box soon...
I'll have a box of glass fuses spare but they are mostly the flat strip type not a wire element.
Hope yours turns out to be something equally simple
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 3rd February 11:04
phillpot said:
Had "an issue" with mine going to Chatsworth last year, fuses were loose in the holders.
Already checked that... Mine were sparking. Pulled the fuses out, closed the fuse holder gaps and been ok since. I removed, cleaned up the fuse ends, nipped the holders and refitted. :-/A friend who's and auto electrician is coming over.
While he's on his way I checked the feed from the ign. That's reading 9v. With the fuse out, the battery light doesn't illuminate with ign. On but still turns over.
Fuse back in and the light illuminates. Checked continuity and the fuse seems fine.
One thing does puzzle me, what are the fuses suppose to be rated at. If someone could tell me?
While he's on his way I checked the feed from the ign. That's reading 9v. With the fuse out, the battery light doesn't illuminate with ign. On but still turns over.
Fuse back in and the light illuminates. Checked continuity and the fuse seems fine.
One thing does puzzle me, what are the fuses suppose to be rated at. If someone could tell me?
phillpot said:
probably because someone popped a fuse while wiring up a radio or something and that's all they had to hand to replace it..............."I must get around to buying the correct size fuse one day"
Car is running now, the ballast resistor wasn't passing voltage through-wipped it out and replaced coil with a 12volt one. Ran on idle great, but rev and it was blowing flames from exhaust. Reset points gap (must buy EI) and runs normal again.
The 6v coil has a date on it, 10 77... Original possible!
I'm still puzzled how the ballast resistor was stopping the side lights and dip beam working but anyway its all ok now.
The flames were Erm... Different... however thinkin it through, perhaps the 12v needs different gap/time to charge a stronger spark?
Oh, I did wire the coil direct to the battery and it ran ok before changing it all etc.
Many thanks to all who helped :-)
The flames were Erm... Different... however thinkin it through, perhaps the 12v needs different gap/time to charge a stronger spark?
Oh, I did wire the coil direct to the battery and it ran ok before changing it all etc.
Many thanks to all who helped :-)
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