3000M Clutch Bite Point

[GadgeS3C]

Bit of a random question - inspired by a short test drive article I found of our car in Classic Cars from Oct 99 (thanks to Richard Sails for the pointer).

The car has always had a stupidly high clutch bite point. Reminded by the article above which mentions "the high bite point takes some getting used to." I thought I'd have a think about it.

The physical travel of the pedal is limited by the lug the cable attaches to reaching the end of the slot in the pedal box. An obvious solution is reweld the lug at a different angle to reposition the pedal, so I wondered how much a pedal might be.

But then looking at Rimmers site the parts drawing of the pedal and a picture showed the lug at different angles! See pics



Just wondered if anyone has any words of wisdom? No I don't want to convert to hydraulic

Only just been thinking about this and it's late and I've had a beer so don't hesitate to point out I've missed something very obvious or said something stupid!

[Slow M]

Lower the pivot on the pedal, and on the bracket.

Best,
B.

[phillpot]

GadgeS3C said:

I don't want to convert to hydraulic

But that looks like a master cylinder bracket and boot to me ? I imagine the top bit of the pedal is a TVR "adaption" ?

[GadgeS3C]

Mike, yes I suspect there might be of TVR tweakery in there but the parts book shows a similar pedal design to the Triumph parts drawing, both different to the Rimmer's pedal picture.

This is the TVR "artists impression" of the pedal.



Bernard - don't particularly want to change the leverage ratio and moving the pivot looks to be more work than changing the angle of the top lug?

BTW - do I win man points for finding a nice excuse to buy a welder and (finally) learn to weld

[GadgeS3C]

Hi Adrian@ - didn't mean to imply the TVR drawings were any less worthy than the Triumph ones! In fact my first post shows the apparent difference between the drawing and the part - I always take parts drawings with a large pinch of sodium chloride!

Changing the link length (Part 10181, No.6) was my first thought but I then realised I'd be limiting the pedal travel unless I lengthen the slot in the pedal box/bulkhead.

It might be an option, I need to do some measuring.

Just wondered if it was a common issue and it might be as simple as "use the late model TR6 pedal" or similar.

Car is 4148FM - is that the early or late pedal box?

Do you have drawings (impressionist or otherwise) of the difference between 10182A and B? Do you stock such beasties?

Thanks,
Gary

Edited by GadgeS3C on Sunday 10th February 09:26

[bluezeeland]

My n° 6' look 'garage-made', and never had problems on clutch-bite. Could the problem be at the other end of the cable, i.e. worn clutch/oil contamination ?

[GAjon]

I can't remember my M, which is cable operated, having a particularly high bite point. (I say can't remember because I changed the Gearbox to a T5 in 1993)

I assume you've fully explored all normal adjustment options?

Have you checked out the release bearing and lever arm functions and condition, or even the clutch itself for that matter?

Seems a bit extreme chopping, welding and drilling stuff just to alter a clutch bite point.

[GadgeS3C]

Clutch etc. is OK, I checked it out when I had the engine out last year.

The No.6 links on mine look home made as well

Appreciate it seems a faff but it really does spoil driving the car. Combination of reading it's been like it since 1999 and having changed the gear knob on our S (seemingly trivial change) awhich made a massive difference to the fun.

Will have a play with the links and see what I can do - will let you know.

Then I just need to sort the dash so I don't have to look at the horrendous digital clock that got fitted at some point...

[bluezeeland]

In short, out of a high end sports manufacturers laboratory.............lol

[Slow M]

GadgeS3C said:

...BTW - do I win man points for finding a nice excuse to buy a welder and (finally) learn to weld

Haven't access to my library, at this time, but (from memory) there are two volumes I'd recommend. Performance Welding, by R. Finch (there's a 2nd Ed. out) and Welding Essentials.

Best,
B.

[GadgeS3C]

Adrian@ said:

Home made, never!...the clutch pedal would be assessed on the production line and part number 10181 sourced..this would of been lovingly crafted in pairs of varying lengths by time serviced craftsmen (or maybe the apprentice come tea boy), chosen by Tom, Dick or Harry, then fitted to give the best operation in use, with the correct thickness shims (OK ,washers)... (because the pedal is thicker than the clutch cable eyelet) THEN released one smidgen of the nyloc nut (so that the links can rotate BUT not rattle).
Adrian@

Apologies - I meant "home made" in the same way that pub food is "home made" i.e. lovingly crafted from the finest ingredients by time saved artisans to a bespoke specification. Then checked by eye by quality inspcetors with hundreds of year experience to thousands of an inch accuracy (a smidgen as you say) to ensure perfect clutch actuation. Or in the case of pub food - "ping - it's ready"

Off topic - took the car to a tyre fitting place last year. Chap that moved it said "how the bloody hell do you drive it with that clutch!".