Is there any reason why I cant..
Discussion
Adrian@ said:
Then ...to add an electric fuel pump ...you should either pin or adhere the inlet to the carb as the fitting is a press fit and prone to popping out, BECAUSE of this, you should add a fuel cut-out-alternator relay driven diode system to the pump so that IF you have an accident then the pump will stop and you will not have fuel pumping all over the place. It might help to convert to a 18 ACR rather than a 17ACR alternator as the pump is a 100% duty cycle you might want to run the heater/wipers/HRW and lights all at the same time.
Adrian@
Come on Adrian..a safe TVR installation wheres the fun in that Adrian@

N.
Pin's a funny word, yes I have proper fuel pipe clips on all connections, suction, delivery and return.
Rather than the "diode system" I have an inertia switch fitted (ex Sierra I think).
Don't use heated screen much but have driven with lights and wipers on and all seemed ok. Maybe as and when alternator dies I'd look to a bigger one?
phillpot said:
Pin's a funny word, yes I have proper fuel pipe clips on all connections, suction, delivery and return.
Rather than the "diode system" I have an inertia switch fitted (ex Sierra I think).
Don't use heated screen much but have driven with lights and wipers on and all seemed ok. Maybe as and when alternator dies I'd look to a bigger one?
Adrian means Pin, not clip.Rather than the "diode system" I have an inertia switch fitted (ex Sierra I think).
Don't use heated screen much but have driven with lights and wipers on and all seemed ok. Maybe as and when alternator dies I'd look to a bigger one?
The brass Inlet and sometimes return tube out of the carb body is known to occasionally drop out of the carb with resultant fuel spilling everywhere..this has been the cause of a number of TVR fires over the years, Araldite works just as well but adrian does recommend a belt and braces approach. a small roll pin carefully drilled through the carb body and brass tube and blob of sealand does the trick.
N.
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