Ohh, rear end matron!
Discussion
Hi,
just thinking of planning a rear end build for my 71 Vixen 2500 over the winter. Did the front end just a few years ago.
On the lines on rear hubs, bearings, trailing arms, bushes, dif, half shafts, new nuts and bolts etc.
I have new drums, prop shaft, brake parts and not touching the body or top half. Chassis is in good condition but might just smooth and re-paint.
I know you could spend a fortune but just a good std make over. Safe and propper.
Would be good to know the ultimate though, just for a dream section.
Thanks guys, all the best for your own projects and dreams.
just thinking of planning a rear end build for my 71 Vixen 2500 over the winter. Did the front end just a few years ago.
On the lines on rear hubs, bearings, trailing arms, bushes, dif, half shafts, new nuts and bolts etc.
I have new drums, prop shaft, brake parts and not touching the body or top half. Chassis is in good condition but might just smooth and re-paint.
I know you could spend a fortune but just a good std make over. Safe and propper.
Would be good to know the ultimate though, just for a dream section.

Thanks guys, all the best for your own projects and dreams.
Purists look away!
I have a Quaife ATB diff in my Vixen.
I came across a KIT which utilises a Subaru diff, without the need for any welding. The KIT is from KDT Classic and Custom, in Coventry. I believe the another conversion kit originated from New Zealand, which is no longer trading
http://www.kdtriumph.com/?xhtml=xhtml/general/serv...
http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl...
As your probably already aware, otherwise modification and re-fabrication of the chassis back end is required for Sierra, or BMW diff units to be fitted.
In addition I have Steel rear uprights, however I am aware that better quality aluminium items are available since, and I have had uprated bespoke drive shafts manufactured (Bar-prop services).
Regards,
D
I have a Quaife ATB diff in my Vixen.
I came across a KIT which utilises a Subaru diff, without the need for any welding. The KIT is from KDT Classic and Custom, in Coventry. I believe the another conversion kit originated from New Zealand, which is no longer trading
http://www.kdtriumph.com/?xhtml=xhtml/general/serv...
http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl...
As your probably already aware, otherwise modification and re-fabrication of the chassis back end is required for Sierra, or BMW diff units to be fitted.
In addition I have Steel rear uprights, however I am aware that better quality aluminium items are available since, and I have had uprated bespoke drive shafts manufactured (Bar-prop services).
Regards,
D
Edited by daza on Friday 5th July 14:34
So, let me clarify what I was asking you. Best, greatest, ultimate mean nothing unless you qualify what the parameters are. Best for handling may not be the best for acceleration, and all depends what power you have, and what you plan on in the future.
What's the desired/intended use of the car?
Power level now?
Planed power in the future?
Tire size now?
Planned tire size, in the future?
Weight?
Best, (meaning: ultimate TVRing)
B.
What's the desired/intended use of the car?
Power level now?
Planed power in the future?
Tire size now?
Planned tire size, in the future?
Weight?
Best, (meaning: ultimate TVRing)
B.
Power now is about 140hp at engine.
Planned power, no idea other than sorting out the induction. Twin HS7s going on at some point and possible TR5 cam.
Tyres are std Yoko's 205x70x15 on std wheels, these will remain the same. Went for low profile years ago and it looked naff. Bigger profile filled the arches out better.
Weight....no idea other than std 2500.
Planned power, no idea other than sorting out the induction. Twin HS7s going on at some point and possible TR5 cam.
Tyres are std Yoko's 205x70x15 on std wheels, these will remain the same. Went for low profile years ago and it looked naff. Bigger profile filled the arches out better.
Weight....no idea other than std 2500.
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