Frustrating lighting problem
Discussion
MOT due (and, embarrassingly, only 12 miles sine the last one) and problems with my lights,
Not helped by the fact my roll bar seriously impedes access to the bulbs !
Ignition on. Light switch off. Stalk up. Rear LH light on !
Light switch on. Stalk up. Front sides on. RH rear on.
Light switch on. Stalk mid position. Headlamps full. Front sides on. No rears.
Light switch on. Stalk down. Headlamps on. Front sides on. No rears.
Any ideas ??
Not helped by the fact my roll bar seriously impedes access to the bulbs !
Ignition on. Light switch off. Stalk up. Rear LH light on !
Light switch on. Stalk up. Front sides on. RH rear on.
Light switch on. Stalk mid position. Headlamps full. Front sides on. No rears.
Light switch on. Stalk down. Headlamps on. Front sides on. No rears.
Any ideas ??
(as per my favourite cry....)
Check your earth returns, as a faulty earth can give some truly weird symptoms - it causes voltages to float and current returns down any available path, sometimes via other bulbs. That's where I would start anyway.
A multimeter/test meter is invaluable to check for high resistance earth returns and or flaoting voltages...
and not just earths at the back by the way...
Check your earth returns, as a faulty earth can give some truly weird symptoms - it causes voltages to float and current returns down any available path, sometimes via other bulbs. That's where I would start anyway.
A multimeter/test meter is invaluable to check for high resistance earth returns and or flaoting voltages...
and not just earths at the back by the way...
The level of despair in TVR 'electrics' can take you to murdering folk within considerable distance
In my experience ample amounts of swearing, shouting and coffee do help (or at least alleviate some of your frustation...........)
Joking aside, and as stated, patience in checking all connections can be the way to go
Especially the rear of the M (or Vixen) can be dodgy (lets be honest, being on you belly in the car, legs sticking out isn't comfy (and not a pretty sight, neither) so is often 'overlooked'
you might want to consider making a 'ring' of the earth connections at the back (mine are on a multi, screw-on, connector) and connect this via a cable to the earth of the/near to the battery
grtz
Frank
In my experience ample amounts of swearing, shouting and coffee do help (or at least alleviate some of your frustation...........)
Joking aside, and as stated, patience in checking all connections can be the way to go
Especially the rear of the M (or Vixen) can be dodgy (lets be honest, being on you belly in the car, legs sticking out isn't comfy (and not a pretty sight, neither) so is often 'overlooked'
you might want to consider making a 'ring' of the earth connections at the back (mine are on a multi, screw-on, connector) and connect this via a cable to the earth of the/near to the battery
grtz
Frank
Its also worth changing the bulb holders to the type that have a seperate earth connection spade before making an earth ring as they earth of the light housing and this can be dodgy so changing all the holders made a big difference on the 3000s and not had a problem since (FAMOUS LAST WORDS)
A
A
Yeah - I discovered that bulb holders from Triumph saloons (2000 and 2500) (and possibly Dolomites etc. ?) fit perfectly into the Cortina mk2 lights (Vixens and early M).
These holders all have a separate earth connection, and they do not connect to the main body of the light back at all.
very useful !!
And it's not just TVR electrics - I had a Scimitar which also had major electrical issues, again down to corroded earth returns. On my Scim, a dodgy earth from the engine resulted in cranking power going down the throttle cable and melting it !
On kit cars I have built I ALWAYS built a substantial earth wire in the loom(s) and made sure it returned properly to the battery. Same for my rebuilt Vixen, now with a new loom...
These holders all have a separate earth connection, and they do not connect to the main body of the light back at all.
very useful !!
And it's not just TVR electrics - I had a Scimitar which also had major electrical issues, again down to corroded earth returns. On my Scim, a dodgy earth from the engine resulted in cranking power going down the throttle cable and melting it !
On kit cars I have built I ALWAYS built a substantial earth wire in the loom(s) and made sure it returned properly to the battery. Same for my rebuilt Vixen, now with a new loom...
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 7th July 04:53
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