Noisy fan bearing
Discussion
Following on from my previous thread.
My fan bearing is noisy and have now replaced it twice but as soon as the engine gets warm it starts making a noise. If I remove the belt and just spin the pulley by hand I can hear it rattling away. The first bearing was in the car when I got it the second was one I had on a spare engine the third one is brand new pressed into a different cover. Are these bearings naturally noisy? Am I doing something wrong?
I can't understand what I could be doing wrong the fan belt is not over tightened I'm just at a loss now.
Any help would be great.
Cheers chris
My fan bearing is noisy and have now replaced it twice but as soon as the engine gets warm it starts making a noise. If I remove the belt and just spin the pulley by hand I can hear it rattling away. The first bearing was in the car when I got it the second was one I had on a spare engine the third one is brand new pressed into a different cover. Are these bearings naturally noisy? Am I doing something wrong?
I can't understand what I could be doing wrong the fan belt is not over tightened I'm just at a loss now.
Any help would be great.
Cheers chris
Chris
I tend to modify the front covers, to get shut of bearing for good !
As on all the turbos, where turbo sits right in front of front cover (the upper chassis rail is raised to make space )
Think you took a pic of front of my engine in S. hacksaw lump of front cover off, behind the bearing, weld a piece of ally sheet over the hole & job sorted, no bearing or pulley!
If you modify a spare cover, you can then do a straight swap. I will post length of shorter fan belt required
Cheers Ian
I tend to modify the front covers, to get shut of bearing for good !
As on all the turbos, where turbo sits right in front of front cover (the upper chassis rail is raised to make space )
Think you took a pic of front of my engine in S. hacksaw lump of front cover off, behind the bearing, weld a piece of ally sheet over the hole & job sorted, no bearing or pulley!
If you modify a spare cover, you can then do a straight swap. I will post length of shorter fan belt required
Cheers Ian
62GRANTIII said:
Chris
I tend to modify the front covers, to get shut of bearing for good !
As on all the turbos, where turbo sits right in front of front cover (the upper chassis rail is raised to make space )
Think you took a pic of front of my engine in S. hacksaw lump of front cover off, behind the bearing, weld a piece of ally sheet over the hole & job sorted, no bearing or pulley!
If you modify a spare cover, you can then do a straight swap. I will post length of shorter fan belt required
Cheers Ian
Thanks Ian I think that this is the way to go. Do you put anything between crank and the alternator to stop it popping off with it being a long span?I tend to modify the front covers, to get shut of bearing for good !
As on all the turbos, where turbo sits right in front of front cover (the upper chassis rail is raised to make space )
Think you took a pic of front of my engine in S. hacksaw lump of front cover off, behind the bearing, weld a piece of ally sheet over the hole & job sorted, no bearing or pulley!
If you modify a spare cover, you can then do a straight swap. I will post length of shorter fan belt required
Cheers Ian
Chris
chris52 said:
A quick video of the noise just spinning by hand this has been the same on three bearings now.
chris
Chris the pulley is spinning and the noise appears to be as a result of thrust fore and aft. if you don't wish to modify as Ian suggests than my advice would be to measure the thrust and see if you can shim it.chris
I am not well up on the essex but if this is just an idler pulley on which to run a fan or act as a 3rd wheel for a drive belt then if it isn't doing anything else it can be gotten rid of.
My only worry about doing away with it would be extra load placed on either water pump / alternator bearings, But if Ian has modified in such a way then I am assuming it is pretty well tried and tested.
I take it that you have used the same shaft?? Chances are its the shaft worn on the bearing
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 5th October 20:37
Hear we are again round two. How can a sealed bearing unit as you show have play sideways?? Is the bearing moving in its housing may be when it gets hot and expands?? Should be a tight fit , if in doubt try and dot punch housing and re fit up with bearing fit etc . You'll get there in the end see you some time richard.
Thanks guys the bolts are not catching the back. The shaft within the bearing has play in it. I guess I have just managed to get myself a bad bearing or I have damaged it pressing it into the cover but I can't see how pressing a sealed bearing into an alloy casting could damage it.
Chris
Chris
Stupid question but you are pressing it in on the bearing outer not the shaft!! We use very similar bearings on our w pumps and don't ever have play on a new assy. Sounds just like a worn bearing though? Pressing on the shaft could well upset the bearings. Use a deep reach socket or tube etc.
The shaft is worn.
This has been proven with 3 bearings.
You could try assembling with Loctite retaining compound (high viscosity) which may take up play in shaft.
other option is to modify as per Ian or get yourself another shaft.
3rd option is to turn it true and find an alternative bearing
This has been proven with 3 bearings.
You could try assembling with Loctite retaining compound (high viscosity) which may take up play in shaft.
other option is to modify as per Ian or get yourself another shaft.
3rd option is to turn it true and find an alternative bearing
heightswitch said:
The shaft is worn.
This has been proven with 3 bearings.
You could try assembling with Loctite retaining compound (high viscosity) which may take up play in shaft.
other option is to modify as per Ian or get yourself another shaft.
3rd option is to turn it true and find an alternative bearing
The shaft is new it comes as a sealed unit shaft and bearing. I used a retaining compound to fix the bearing in the timing cover. I have probably damaged the bearing pressing it into the cover as I did press it in on the shaft. The reason for this is you need to first press the fan fixing plate onto the bearing shaft ( the plate the pulley bolts onto) once this is on you have no way of fitting anything onto the outer body of the bearing. You can't press the bearing in first then the plate as the bearing doesn't seat at the bottom of the cover. So if you press the bearing in first to where it should be then try and press the plate onto the bearing it will move the bearing down further and out of alignment if you see what I mean.This has been proven with 3 bearings.
You could try assembling with Loctite retaining compound (high viscosity) which may take up play in shaft.
other option is to modify as per Ian or get yourself another shaft.
3rd option is to turn it true and find an alternative bearing
Chris
Could you not press the pulley hub on supporting the end of the shaft. Then you will have to get some tube of the dia of the outer race cut it in half and press the bearing in the housing on two lengths of h duty strapping (tricky) Scrap that !!!!!!make the two half's of the tube the perfect length to fit between the top of the outer race and the bottom of the hub , press on the hub and the force will go down the cut tubes and push the outer race in. Get what I mean .?????
Just finishing off the frount suspenshion as I had to make it slightly narrower to make it look right . But it runs and sounds great !! full one off stainless exhaust system well worth the money. Now that harvest is done and all drilled up may get a bit more free time to get the body to a painting stage. I'll get there. Still waiting for the rear 16 inch minilights to be made so I can form the rear arches.
Edited by griff 200 on Sunday 6th October 20:17
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