Discussion
Hi,
I have recently seen a posting, which I thought was on this forum, about stripping brake calipers.
But I've spent the last 2 hours trying to find it without success.
I am wanting to overhaul a pair to put onto the 3000S as I'm pinching its AP calipers for the 1600M.
My main question is where to get the seals which go between the 2 halves.
Can anyone help, please.
SteveD
I have recently seen a posting, which I thought was on this forum, about stripping brake calipers.
But I've spent the last 2 hours trying to find it without success.
I am wanting to overhaul a pair to put onto the 3000S as I'm pinching its AP calipers for the 1600M.
My main question is where to get the seals which go between the 2 halves.
Can anyone help, please.
SteveD
Hello Steve,
I am not an expert but I have been told many times over the last years you should never split the caliber.
And why should you do so?
Refurbishing, good cleaning or overhauling can be done without splitting.
I have done that for several classic cars.
Good luck with the brakes.
Hans
I am not an expert but I have been told many times over the last years you should never split the caliber.
And why should you do so?
Refurbishing, good cleaning or overhauling can be done without splitting.
I have done that for several classic cars.
Good luck with the brakes.
Hans
I've read that advice many times - never split the calipers.
But then I wonder why, as when you do split them, there's no adjustment or anything which would allow the rejoined halves to be misaligned or anything like that.
It's bloody hard to clean the calipers properly without splitting them. The crud collects on the forward face of the sealing groove, where you can't see - not cleaning this out makes the reassembled calipers have very stiff pistons...
So it's a mystery to me why they can't be split - perhaps it's because the seals aren't easily available ?
But then I wonder why, as when you do split them, there's no adjustment or anything which would allow the rejoined halves to be misaligned or anything like that.
It's bloody hard to clean the calipers properly without splitting them. The crud collects on the forward face of the sealing groove, where you can't see - not cleaning this out makes the reassembled calipers have very stiff pistons...
So it's a mystery to me why they can't be split - perhaps it's because the seals aren't easily available ?
Remember buying some for an MGB some years ago and a quick look on Moss Europe shows they are still available but nothing listed for Triumphs.
If they are all Girling calipers it's quite possible they are the same, but of course you'd want to be absolutely sure.
.....or would MG have been Lockheed
Not to split TR calipers is an 'old wives tale' ! Split mine two years ago, worked fine ever since...
When split you can properly clean both external and internal (there will be waxy, slimey crud in there) which you cannot blow out/soak in brake cleaner without splitting
Moss do do the set, including the seals you're refering to
(btw; how is the rebuild of both the 3000s and 1600M ?)
When split you can properly clean both external and internal (there will be waxy, slimey crud in there) which you cannot blow out/soak in brake cleaner without splitting
Moss do do the set, including the seals you're refering to
(btw; how is the rebuild of both the 3000s and 1600M ?)
As far as I know (so might be wrong....) and in case it helps...
Girling calipers started off in stuff like TR6 and Vitesse/GT6 etc. These were imperial castings.
Later calipers were metric, and designated as M16 (and I have seen a description as PB16M).
The caliper castings are basically the same, but they have different fixing bolts, so the bolt holes are different. The TR6 had a special bolt option, which was an imperial thread, but with a metric shank size, as well as standard imperial and metric bolts
TVR wedges are Cortina based, and they use the metric version of the caliper, and I believe (but not sure) that Triumphs changed over to metric calipers in about 1976, so probably M series will have the metric version ?
Rimmers used to sell both imperial and metric versions, and the different bolt options - so it's important to make sure you identify whether you have metric or imperial versions....
I believe there is only one seal kit though, as the rubber bits are flexible enough to handle both versions...
Girling calipers started off in stuff like TR6 and Vitesse/GT6 etc. These were imperial castings.
Later calipers were metric, and designated as M16 (and I have seen a description as PB16M).
The caliper castings are basically the same, but they have different fixing bolts, so the bolt holes are different. The TR6 had a special bolt option, which was an imperial thread, but with a metric shank size, as well as standard imperial and metric bolts
TVR wedges are Cortina based, and they use the metric version of the caliper, and I believe (but not sure) that Triumphs changed over to metric calipers in about 1976, so probably M series will have the metric version ?
Rimmers used to sell both imperial and metric versions, and the different bolt options - so it's important to make sure you identify whether you have metric or imperial versions....
I believe there is only one seal kit though, as the rubber bits are flexible enough to handle both versions...
If all the technical advises I read from you guys are correct (without doubt), I feel that all the difficult cleaning I have done over the years has been unnecessary.
But it worked for me because never a failure in the braking.
I was told the 2 halves good wrap because of tension in the material.
But now I know better.
A good start for 2014 and I will split the Vixen brakes when I (or you) can find the seals.
Hans.
But it worked for me because never a failure in the braking.
I was told the 2 halves good wrap because of tension in the material.
But now I know better.
A good start for 2014 and I will split the Vixen brakes when I (or you) can find the seals.
Hans.
PB imperial and metric calipers are different to ford granada based M series callipers. which are larger and need a certain amount of fettling to fit to a pre-M TVR. They are very similar looking though which is why they were often used in historic TVR racers.
They are also cheap readily available along with spacer kits and their performance with proper friction material is very good. Not sure why anyone would want to go to mega expensive 4 pots, discs and bells etc for a road car..All it does in my opinion is add greater expense at service time. I suppose it gives people more to talk about at the pub.
The other period caliper mod is to use the e-type 3 piston caliper which also bolts up with a little fettling.
My race car utilises M series callipers with spacer and vented discs, seems to stop well enough!! My discs are off the shelf items which I re-drill for correct pcd. Bit of a faff but they are only £50 a pair to replace!!
N.
They are also cheap readily available along with spacer kits and their performance with proper friction material is very good. Not sure why anyone would want to go to mega expensive 4 pots, discs and bells etc for a road car..All it does in my opinion is add greater expense at service time. I suppose it gives people more to talk about at the pub.
The other period caliper mod is to use the e-type 3 piston caliper which also bolts up with a little fettling.
My race car utilises M series callipers with spacer and vented discs, seems to stop well enough!! My discs are off the shelf items which I re-drill for correct pcd. Bit of a faff but they are only £50 a pair to replace!!
N.
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