Discussion
Im having a bit of trouble chasing the cause of a weak spark on my Taimar.
Ive got a new 12v coil, electronic pick up and cap,rotor arm and leads, and Ive bypassed the ballast resistor.
Ive run new wires from the starter up to the starter relay, and ive tested voltage at the coil at 12v, and upon cranking it drops to about 9.5v, is this correct?
Im getting a small spark from the king lead to a spare spark plug and Im getting very small sparks at all 6 plug leads, but she still wont fire!
Ive got fuel to the carb.
Any ideas?
Ive got a new 12v coil, electronic pick up and cap,rotor arm and leads, and Ive bypassed the ballast resistor.
Ive run new wires from the starter up to the starter relay, and ive tested voltage at the coil at 12v, and upon cranking it drops to about 9.5v, is this correct?
Im getting a small spark from the king lead to a spare spark plug and Im getting very small sparks at all 6 plug leads, but she still wont fire!
Ive got fuel to the carb.
Any ideas?
hallsie said:
Im having a bit of trouble chasing the cause of a weak spark on my Taimar.
Ive got a new 12v coil, electronic pick up and cap,rotor arm and leads, and Ive bypassed the ballast resistor.
Ive run new wires from the starter up to the starter relay, and ive tested voltage at the coil at 12v, and upon cranking it drops to about 9.5v, is this correct?
Any ideas?
I don't know about correct, but yes, that's what happens under cranking, hence why ballasted systems were used.Ive got a new 12v coil, electronic pick up and cap,rotor arm and leads, and Ive bypassed the ballast resistor.
Ive run new wires from the starter up to the starter relay, and ive tested voltage at the coil at 12v, and upon cranking it drops to about 9.5v, is this correct?
Any ideas?
If you've got a ballasted coil that is good, and a good ballast resistor, it might be worth putting that on and trying, just make sure to put a 12V to the electronic ign unit (not from coil + ).
Is the electronic setup properly and timed in? Which unit is it?
How old are the plugs?
Cerberus90 said:
hallsie said:
Im having a bit of trouble chasing the cause of a weak spark on my Taimar.
Ive got a new 12v coil, electronic pick up and cap,rotor arm and leads, and Ive bypassed the ballast resistor.
Ive run new wires from the starter up to the starter relay, and ive tested voltage at the coil at 12v, and upon cranking it drops to about 9.5v, is this correct?
Any ideas?
I don't know about correct, but yes, that's what happens under cranking, hence why ballasted systems were used.Ive got a new 12v coil, electronic pick up and cap,rotor arm and leads, and Ive bypassed the ballast resistor.
Ive run new wires from the starter up to the starter relay, and ive tested voltage at the coil at 12v, and upon cranking it drops to about 9.5v, is this correct?
Any ideas?
If you've got a ballasted coil that is good, and a good ballast resistor, it might be worth putting that on and trying, just make sure to put a 12V to the electronic ign unit (not from coil + ).
Is the electronic setup properly and timed in? Which unit is it?
How old are the plugs?
This is the unit I have bought, and it has run it it perfectly since I fited it arouund 2 months ago, I ran it up to temperature 2 weeks ago with no problems, then tried he next day and it wouldnt play!
Plugs are brand new and the engine is timed up correctly.
Im scratching my head with this now!
thanks
Stu
If you need to check if 9.5 volts is the problem get a spare batt and connect it to the coil etc so the volts don't drop when cranking. Richard 9.5 v is a bit low ! as said check batt terminals and earth to chassis also engine to chassis ?? But try the second batt trick.
Edited by griff 200 on Saturday 8th February 17:33
Try putting the ballast coil back on, without the resistor, full 12 volts will do no harm for a minute or two if the engine starts.
Do you still have all parts to go back to points/condenser to eliminate electronic ignition fault?
If you have some "jump leads" put one from battery -ve direct to engine.
Ive tried the old coil with the old ballast resistor, and without the ballast resistor and still nothing.
can I, as suggested, put a seperate battery to the coil and leave the other terminals connected?
Im starting to think I may have a problem with the ignition switch, so Ive ordered another one, but could there be a problem in the Starter Motor?
The wire from the starter to the starter relay is operating the relay, but Ive noticed Ive lost ignition lights now.
Stu
can I, as suggested, put a seperate battery to the coil and leave the other terminals connected?
Im starting to think I may have a problem with the ignition switch, so Ive ordered another one, but could there be a problem in the Starter Motor?
The wire from the starter to the starter relay is operating the relay, but Ive noticed Ive lost ignition lights now.
Stu
hallsie said:
Ive tried the old coil with the old ballast resistor, and without the ballast resistor and still nothing.
can I, as suggested, put a seperate battery to the coil and leave the other terminals connected?
Im starting to think I may have a problem with the ignition switch, so Ive ordered another one, but could there be a problem in the Starter Motor?
The wire from the starter to the starter relay is operating the relay, but Ive noticed Ive lost ignition lights now.
Stu
Dodgy ign switch could cause it. If it's not making the right contacts when in the cranking position, it could stop there being power to the ign position, stopping the coil from being powered.can I, as suggested, put a seperate battery to the coil and leave the other terminals connected?
Im starting to think I may have a problem with the ignition switch, so Ive ordered another one, but could there be a problem in the Starter Motor?
The wire from the starter to the starter relay is operating the relay, but Ive noticed Ive lost ignition lights now.
Stu
If the ign lights gone, the alternator won't be charging. Shouldn't affect whether it'll start or not though.
Well
Who would have thought it!
As the car was sat for a while without starting, the fuel in the carb had evaporated and the float has stuck up, so not letting any fuel into it!
I could hear the return working, so assumed there was fuel up to the carb.
What a berk!
It all starts and runs again now!
Thanks for all of the thoughts and input.
Stu
Who would have thought it!
As the car was sat for a while without starting, the fuel in the carb had evaporated and the float has stuck up, so not letting any fuel into it!
I could hear the return working, so assumed there was fuel up to the carb.
What a berk!
It all starts and runs again now!
Thanks for all of the thoughts and input.
Stu
hallsie said:
Well
Who would have thought it!
As the car was sat for a while without starting, the fuel in the carb had evaporated and the float has stuck up, so not letting any fuel into it!
I could hear the return working, so assumed there was fuel up to the carb.
What a berk!
It all starts and runs again now!
Thanks for all of the thoughts and input.
Stu
Cool does that mean you have a spare US spec ignition switch Who would have thought it!
As the car was sat for a while without starting, the fuel in the carb had evaporated and the float has stuck up, so not letting any fuel into it!
I could hear the return working, so assumed there was fuel up to the carb.
What a berk!
It all starts and runs again now!
Thanks for all of the thoughts and input.
Stu
very rare part USA e bay may be the answer So glad its sorted maybe you can pop down soon and get your UNPOLISHED manifold 
A
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