Jacking points on Vixen S1 and more

[Sonus]

As there is no workshop manual (?) to turn to like I'm used to when I used to be wrenching on my previous MGB I'm going to pester you lot for plenty info

So let's start off with the following newbie questions;

1. Jacking points. I'm using a two post lift and wonder where on the chassis I'd be plassing the four contact patches?
2. When doing smaller jobs, where do I use the floof jack front and rear?

After doing some tire kicking I found that all wheel bearings have some slack in them, and no it's not just that tiny bit required to let them expand when hot. So front bearing adjustment should be fine, however the rear sounds more involved. I raed somewhere that the bearing preload is actually adjusted form the backside of the uprights? And how plausible will it be that the bearings only need nippin up as opposed to changing them? The car is so noisy, I can't really tell if the bearings are rumbling - which to me is a good thing

Edited by Sonus on Thursday 6th March 20:37

[nwarner]

If you haven't come across it there's some good information here http://www.johnupham.co.uk/ including a handbook. Click on the picture of the Vixen.

Nige

[Sonus]

Thanks Nige

I had bookmarked the site, but didn't recollect it when I posted the thread.

However are the chassis outriggers strong enough to take the whole cars weight?

[thegamekeeper]

Sonus said:

Thanks Nige

I had bookmarked the site, but didn't recollect it when I posted the thread.

However are the chassis outriggers strong enough to take the whole cars weight?

With regard to jacking car I would suggest you get a 1 foot square of 1/2" plywood ( 300mm x 13mm in Europe ) and place under the corners of the ody immediatley behind front wheels or in front of rear wheels . This will spread the load, if there is any corrosion in the chassis jacking diectly under the coners will soon find it out with expensive consequences.The same would apply when using a hydraulic lift.

I would STRONGLY recommend that you dont just adjust the bearings on this car which to you is an unknown quantity but that you should strip the 4 corners and inspect the bearings and have the rear quill shafts crack tested. If you have the skills replace hideous squash tubes with solid spacers and reassemble with red synthetic grease. Strip the fronts and check stub axles for scoring and condition of bearings and reassemble with the same grease. I would always use new QUALITY bearings and then you know from day 1 that all is well. Bearings can collapse and quill shafts can and do break

[Sonus]

thegamekeeper said:

With regard to jacking car I would suggest you get a 1 foot square of 1/2" plywood ( 300mm x 13mm in Europe ) and place under the corners of the ody immediatley behind front wheels or in front of rear wheels . This will spread the load, if there is any corrosion in the chassis jacking diectly under the coners will soon find it out with expensive consequences.The same would apply when using a hydraulic lift.

I would STRONGLY recommend that you dont just adjust the bearings on this car which to you is an unknown quantity but that you should strip the 4 corners and inspect the bearings and have the rear quill shafts crack tested. If you have the skills replace hideous squash tubes with solid spacers and reassemble with red synthetic grease. Strip the fronts and check stub axles for scoring and condition of bearings and reassemble with the same grease. I would always use new QUALITY bearings and then you know from day 1 that all is well. Bearings can collapse and quill shafts can and do break

Thank you Steve.

And yes I really should change all bearings. The method described on the linked website is a bit intimidating for the rear, but I just need to get on with it. Where is the best place to source the solid spacers for the rear?

[Sonus]

So I listened to Steve and ordered all new bearings, seals and squash tubes from DG for all four corners.

Now I just need to get it all fitted

[prideaux]

Sonus said:

So I listened to Steve and ordered all new bearings, seals and squash tubes from DG for all four corners.

Now I just need to get it all fitted

Well done we are still waiting for more pictures glad your enjoying her you have got her at just the right time of year to really enjoy yourself
A

[thegamekeeper]

Sonus said:

So I listened to Steve and ordered all new bearings, seals and squash tubes from DG for all four corners.

Now I just need to get it all fitted

I hope you listened to the part about crack testing and not using squash tubes.

[Sonus]

thegamekeeper said:

I hope you listened to the part about crack testing and not using squash tubes.

Yes I did

Have asked for solid spacers instead of squash tubes. Crack testing the quill shafts when I remove them for new bearing races to be fitted.

Still winter here in norway so poor weather for photos and my classic car insurance is only valid from 15th of march so will have to wait til then for better pics.