Essex bellhousing

[bluezeeland]

Rebuilding the engine-g/box and diff at the mo

The bellhousing has two possible covers, one at the bottom-front (steel) (which i have not got, and they go for silly prices.....) And the rubbery one at the clutch-fork/bell.

The one I've got is a bit cack, as in deformed by the motion of the fork/clutch cable.

Is there to be either of the two, iow can i leave the rubber one off, given there is a metal bottom-front cover, or just the rubber, or none ?

[phillpot]

In my modest opinion it is probably better to have something covering the bottom half of the bell housing, not too difficult to fabricate something if original is missing.

I'm happy running mine without the rubber bellows on the clutch arm, very low risk of anything "un-wanted" getting in there?

[bluezeeland]

I'm leaning toward leaving the bellow off as well, Mike, on dismantling the bellhouse it had not a lot of crud in it. Also I think the bellow impairs the smooth working of the clutch (heavy enough as it is...)

Will have a look-see if there is any cover-plates around for a sensible price, or else i'l fabricate one myself (anybody got one i can use as a template ?)

[GAjon]

I used a homemade hardboard one for years, no problem.

It was of course formula 1 special lightweight racing hardboard though!

[bluezeeland]

GAjon said:

formula 1 special lightweight racing hardboard

Composite Kevlar carbon hardboard then ?

[bluezeeland]

mmh, sounds good, any change of one like those lying about ?

[Hansoplast]

He Guys,

Your also talking about these plates.



The one is a full plate that does not fit on my 711 but I need for my pre crossflow.
The other one needs a bottom plate, that keeps the dirt out of the bell house as stated before.
I would like to get my hands on that missing plate. Sometimes called "dirt plate" but has also other names.

The rubber around the lever I found in Holland voor a tenner and not for the ridiculous prices on Ebay UK.

So anyone the full plate and or the missing dirt plate?
Hans

[phillpot]

Adrian@ said:

...FORD designed it using waxed faced card to absorb the damp

If that idea worked I'll eat my hat!

Doesn't "waxing" something make it waterproof?

I thought it was just a cost thing, cheaper than metal, around that same era Ford started fitting "undertrays" under engine bays made of the same stuff.

[Hansoplast]

Sorry. this is the one for 711 with loose mudguard.



And does anyone know whether the thickness of the plate influence the working of the friction plate ?
Sometimes it is only 1 mm to free the friction.

Hans

[phillpot]

Hansoplast said:

And does anyone know whether the thickness of the plate influence the working of the friction plate ?
Sometimes it is only 1 mm to free the friction.
Hans

Adjustment of the cable (or self adjustment if hydraulic) would "take up" any difference just as it takes up wear of the clutch plate.

[phillpot]

So I could put some empty Cornflake box's in my car rather than buy Silica gel bags to keep the damp down?

[Astacus]

Hans I am not sure what you are after. Is it the 711M bell housing dirt guard?

CLICK

The other plate comes up on Ebay fairly often and I think they are available new too (about £40 if I remember correctly)

Edited by Astacus on Monday 7th April 17:29

[thegamekeeper]

Adrian@ said:

OE design for this is not metal ...FORD designed it using waxed faced card to absorb the damp around the clutch/flywheel face and dry out in engine heat. so that the clutch will not stick on!
Adrian@

I was just about to say that they were metal on crossflow, at the ones I had in my garage all were and then the ebay link assured me I wasn,t dreaming it. The early V6 and V4 ones were metal and then later ones(Capri) were made of a waxed board, I always assumed it was cheaper to produce. I for the life of me cant see where this moisture is coming from in the bellhousing, the only moisture I have ever seen is oil from leaky rear engine oil seal or front gearbox one.

[thegamekeeper]

Adrian@ said:

It really is not worth arguing about, but clutches don't just stick on the flywheel/clutch plate, they rust on, the elements involved are the steel in the plate/flywheel/cover and moisture in the air, by creating the lower cover in waxed card you can get an another cheaper item to absorb that moisture, which will then be dried out with heat from the engine.
Simple.
Adrian@

Adrian, you are absolutely correct. It is not worth arguing about because you have gone off on a tangent. Nobody other than you was discussing clutches sticking and wax, steel or a virgins dehydrated hymen has nothing to do with the clutch sticking.You allude to rust or to put it correctly ferrous to ferric corrosion. There is 0% oxygen which is required for the conversion from ferrous to ferric because the interface between the clutch plate, flywheel and the clutch pressure plate it,s anaerobic. How does a waxed cardboard cover , be it waxed one side or both interfere with basic chemistry?

[phillpot]

No offence Adrian but is it April 1 ?

I'd have to see that on an official Ford Technical Bulletin to even begin to believe it!

Would a company mass producing vehicles for every day use put so much thought into possible issues if vehicle was left un-used for a long period of time?
Unless the clutch "chamber" is perfectly sealed as fast as this magic cardboard absorbs moisture more will migrate into this dry area.

even if they did it presumably it didn't work because by the time of the Cologne engines they had gone back to a full metal plate?

[bluezeeland]

Whispers; So, anybody' got one for me ?

[phillpot]

Chucked mine away, was all wet and soggy!

[bluezeeland]

Sincerely hope your talking 'bout your dust cover.........