1600M diff problems
Discussion
It is probably a Triumph unit, and no, you don't need to get a new one, as they can be rebuild....
However, there is more then one reason for 'clonks'
Bushes of the diff mounts, diff mounts themselves (they can break)
Another one, which is the most 'pleasant' possibility, are the U-joints (replacing is fun, fun, fun !)
Lastly obviously is the condition of seals and crown-wheel of the diff, which can be refurbed
In any case further investigation is required..........
Frank
However, there is more then one reason for 'clonks'
Bushes of the diff mounts, diff mounts themselves (they can break)
Another one, which is the most 'pleasant' possibility, are the U-joints (replacing is fun, fun, fun !)
Lastly obviously is the condition of seals and crown-wheel of the diff, which can be refurbed
In any case further investigation is required..........
Frank
Sounds just like our 1600M when we got it.
Taking the Mountain at Cadwell at full tilt didn't do it much good either.
So far we've changed UJs about 3 times, got a second pair of driveshafts (which had better engagement on the splines), a second hand recon diff, new propshaft UJs twice, balanced the propshaft twice.
No clonk anymore, but we do now have a whine from the diff and a bit of a vibration/drone at speed
.
It is a triumph diff, a spitfire one and as mentioned above, pretty easy to work with.
Taking the Mountain at Cadwell at full tilt didn't do it much good either.
So far we've changed UJs about 3 times, got a second pair of driveshafts (which had better engagement on the splines), a second hand recon diff, new propshaft UJs twice, balanced the propshaft twice.

No clonk anymore, but we do now have a whine from the diff and a bit of a vibration/drone at speed
.It is a triumph diff, a spitfire one and as mentioned above, pretty easy to work with.
plasticpig72 said:
could someone say if the Triumph diff is a Spitfire , herald, Vitesse and what ratio if i look for a new diff or in good condition. Do you think it's possible from Rimmer Bros or Canley!!
Taadaaa, 
Rimmer Bros 3.89 Diff
We've got a 3.63 one in ours, just gives it a bit more legs with the tuned engine.
griff 200 said:
I'm afraid I just scraped the old diff and fitted a ford Sierra unit not to hard to fit made some adapters for the drive shafts and it's never wined again???
It was hard enough convincing my "assistant
" to fit electronic ignition to ours, so I'd have no chance with a different diff.We have got a Tr6 one though which we might put in.
plasticpig72 said:
could someone say if the Triumph diff is a Spitfire , herald, Vitesse and what ratio if i look for a new diff or in good condition. Do you think it's possible from Rimmer Bros or Canley!!
With the numbers on the casing of the diff you can find the ratio on internet.When buying new U-joints better choose the best (GNK) with grease nipples. Some do not have them (chinees stuff).
Getting the cup with needles out just tap light with a wooden hammer on it will holding it in your hand and he will come out slowly. THIS IS NOT A JOKE.
It will take some time but no force. Some people press it out but that can lead to a breaking.
When it does not go out just het it slowly.
When pressing the new cup with needles in, just fill the cup with grease so the needle will not fall out.
Good luck.
Hans
Adrian@ said:
Can I repeat what I always say when these diffs are mentioned...the internal HD carrier version is a must for the TVR...IMHO getting an exchange unit MIGHT 'lose' the HD carrier version (that said, IF it has not already been lost) that should be in the car!!
Adrian@
Hi Adrian,Adrian@
For me as an novice, what do you mean by HD carrier version?
Google translate does not help me.
And how can I indentify this type?
I have 2 on the floor and one must go in.
Thanx for the expertise.
Hans.
timelord said:
If you go down the recon diff route its worth topping the diff with oil and standing it on the prop flange for a while to thoroughly soak the bearings as these only get oil flung up when the diff is turning, and don't forget new nyloc nuts all round! Geoff
The last thing you want is nyloc nuts. If the diff oil gets hot what happens to the nylon?Moto said:
Have I got it all wrong ??? I always presumed that 3.89 was the number of wheel revolutions for each turn of the prop shaft. Therefore surely a 3.63 figure would make the engine revs higher at the same speed, not give it longer legs.
I always get confused with gear ratios, I think of it as the closer to 1:1 you get, the higher top speed you'll get.When you think on the gearbox, 4th is the 1:1, and 5th is a <1:1, so smaller the first number, higher top speed.
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