Vixen top ball joint - Alternative?
Discussion
Why? the top ball joint is quite reliable.
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
[quote=Dollyman1850]Why? the top ball joint is quite reliable.
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
Hy Dollyman,
You mentioned the rubber (not the one from the drugstore).
Mine is torn through hanging wheel free from floor. And it was new!!!! never driven the car yet.
Where can I buy these?
Thanks for info.
Hans
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
Hy Dollyman,
You mentioned the rubber (not the one from the drugstore).
Mine is torn through hanging wheel free from floor. And it was new!!!! never driven the car yet.
Where can I buy these?
Thanks for info.
Hans
Dollyman1850 said:
Why? the top ball joint is quite reliable.
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
There is definitely something missing from the rubber parts produced these days....and it really does not matter were the come from.These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
I like Hans, have new parts that have been kept out of the sun light but have still parished.
Best,
D.
Dollyman1850 said:
Why? the top ball joint is quite reliable.
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
Thanks for your reply.These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
Yes it is / will be a circuit car, I am building it for a race series in France next year. Where can I get the 3/4 one you mention, does the taper have to be modified?
XavierS2 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Yes it is / will be a circuit car, I am building it for a race series in France next year. Where can I get the 3/4 one you mention, does the taper have to be modified?
Is it an S1 or S2 Vixen?Yes it is / will be a circuit car, I am building it for a race series in France next year. Where can I get the 3/4 one you mention, does the taper have to be modified?
If its a 4 cyl car the top joints are fine. there is a supplier of replacement boots which I will try to dig out.
To be honest I just buy std ones for the road cars and even the 4 cyl race car isn't a problem.
The 3/4 joint refers to the thread through the wishbone so you need corresponding wishbones as well. These are for Vixen S1 / Griff rather than S2 which are slightly different.
All the good Triumph specialists and Adrian / Steve Reid will keep as a stock item.
N.
Sorry I am.getting mixed up with track rod ends which are triumph and are monotonous in their perishability, especially the chinese imported variety.
Replacement boot kits are from a company called P&A auto products.. try google.
S1 Vixen have suspension options to allow you to lower and run more camber. It may be that for anything other than a V8 car though this isn't needed.
Balljoints are probably not specific to TVR they will be from another model somewhere but I wouldn't want to give any wrong info Its a long time since I have bought std parts.
They can be obtained from Adrian Venn and Steve Reid or David Geralds.
Out of interest just checked in the Garage. Dads std top joints are marked. GN04A 62 and came from Adrian. I dare say this will reference to something..possibly Vixen specific but likely they will be from something.. I may be wrong though.
I would always buy from Steve or Adrian.
If you wanted to go the spherical rod and taper option it is simply a case of matching the taper and buying a kit.. These will be available from triumph specialist like Jigsaw etc..
Adrian is currently putting together a circuit Vixen. he may be trying something exotic?
N.
Replacement boot kits are from a company called P&A auto products.. try google.
S1 Vixen have suspension options to allow you to lower and run more camber. It may be that for anything other than a V8 car though this isn't needed.
Balljoints are probably not specific to TVR they will be from another model somewhere but I wouldn't want to give any wrong info Its a long time since I have bought std parts.
They can be obtained from Adrian Venn and Steve Reid or David Geralds.
Out of interest just checked in the Garage. Dads std top joints are marked. GN04A 62 and came from Adrian. I dare say this will reference to something..possibly Vixen specific but likely they will be from something.. I may be wrong though.
I would always buy from Steve or Adrian.
If you wanted to go the spherical rod and taper option it is simply a case of matching the taper and buying a kit.. These will be available from triumph specialist like Jigsaw etc..
Adrian is currently putting together a circuit Vixen. he may be trying something exotic?
N.
http://www.balljointboot.co.uk
Link to boot cover site…Always worth having. I have about 5 pairs of track rod ends all needing new boots
N.
Link to boot cover site…Always worth having. I have about 5 pairs of track rod ends all needing new boots
N.
I have these fitted, BUT a ball joint has a better in use load characteristic for the same size, given that rose joints do not like to 'work' in side load (the bigger cars go upsize in ball joint as mentioned), you might need to think about what I say, BUT they look pretty though.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Saturday 8th November 12:03
Have just spent a pleasurable hour or so reading about MK1 Transit Drag link ends and FSO / fiat 125 ball joints !! I am sad like that!!
Westfield parts are always interesting when considering spares supplies into the future.
I assume you have plenty OEM in stock Adrian?
The racer uses a Moog american joint on the top.
N.
Westfield parts are always interesting when considering spares supplies into the future.
I assume you have plenty OEM in stock Adrian?
The racer uses a Moog american joint on the top.
N.
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Thursday 6th November 19:38
Grantura MKI said:
Dollyman1850 said:
Why? the top ball joint is quite reliable.
These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
There is definitely something missing from the rubber parts produced these days....and it really does not matter were the come from.These days I find its the rubber boots that have to be changed regularly….Apparently Rubber doesn't grow on Trees anymore!
There is an alternative 3/4 ball joint that is used on racing cars with big fat wheels but this isn't required on road cars.
N.
I like Hans, have new parts that have been kept out of the sun light but have still parished.
Best,
D.
Same here. Rebuilt the front end, on the BSA, a few years ago, threw on new gaiters, and presto, within six months they were dust.
Best,
B.
Grantura MKI said:
Be careful, as some replacements do not have enough threads to set up the geometry correctly. Half nuts do help.
Best,
D.
I have the same problem.Best,
D.
Have to find those "half nuts", which I did not know they exists.
I was more thinking of take some material of the A-arm.
But first put all the load (body) back on the chassis to find out how much thread i need.
Hans
Hansoplast said:
Grantura MKI said:
Be careful, as some replacements do not have enough threads to set up the geometry correctly. Half nuts do help.
Best,
D.
I have the same problem.Best,
D.
Have to find those "half nuts", which I did not know they exists.
I was more thinking of take some material of the A-arm.
But first put all the load (body) back on the chassis to find out how much thread i need.
Hans
http://www.namrick.co.uk/
P.
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