Anyone compete with a 3000m or Taimar?
Discussion
Hello,
I'm looking into getting a 3000m or Taimar to do a bit of classic rallying and maybe the odd sprint. I can't find that much about people using these for club motorsport, (I've seen a few articles about caged cars running in full race series) Do they respond well to the standard stuff like uprating the shocks, bushes, ARB, etc. Or am I barking up the wrong tree here? I'd like to keep the car fairly standard or it'll fall foul of the MSA regs around classic rallying which state that Clubmans class has minimum changes to it. The car needs to be pre '82 to qualify for the classic road rallying and I'm loathed to get another MGB as they are a bit aggricultural in the handling stakes.
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers,
Carl.
I'm looking into getting a 3000m or Taimar to do a bit of classic rallying and maybe the odd sprint. I can't find that much about people using these for club motorsport, (I've seen a few articles about caged cars running in full race series) Do they respond well to the standard stuff like uprating the shocks, bushes, ARB, etc. Or am I barking up the wrong tree here? I'd like to keep the car fairly standard or it'll fall foul of the MSA regs around classic rallying which state that Clubmans class has minimum changes to it. The car needs to be pre '82 to qualify for the classic road rallying and I'm loathed to get another MGB as they are a bit aggricultural in the handling stakes.
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers,
Carl.
I used to sprint/hillclimb a Taimar (having done 70+ trackdays beforehand)
Things that made a difference in order of importance
1) Driving Training and more Driving Training
2) Suspension inc full corner weighting
3) Sorting out petrol tank/fuel delivery to stop starvation on fast corners
4) Better Brakes
5) Bigger Wheels and Tyres
6) More Power
You can have a lot of fun with a standard car, as long as it is in good running order
Road Rallies are a bit of a different kettle of fish as you will bottom out on loads of raods, especialy when pressing on and at night. I would recommend a sump guard (I cracked a sump on the road) and putting skid plates on the exhaust.
Go for it, you'll have a lot of fun.
davidy
Things that made a difference in order of importance
1) Driving Training and more Driving Training
2) Suspension inc full corner weighting
3) Sorting out petrol tank/fuel delivery to stop starvation on fast corners
4) Better Brakes
5) Bigger Wheels and Tyres
6) More Power
You can have a lot of fun with a standard car, as long as it is in good running order
Road Rallies are a bit of a different kettle of fish as you will bottom out on loads of raods, especialy when pressing on and at night. I would recommend a sump guard (I cracked a sump on the road) and putting skid plates on the exhaust.
Go for it, you'll have a lot of fun.
davidy
Edited by DavidY on Friday 29th February 15:43
David, I'm interested as to why you'd recommend larger wheels and tyres other than to fit larger brakes? I run a seven replica and everyone always recommends the smallest wheels possible without fouling the brakes for improved handling/unsprung weight.
Edited by Seabass on Saturday 1st March 15:31
David, I'm interested as to why you'd recommend larger wheels and tyres other than to fit larger brakes? I run a seven replica and everyone always recommends the smallest wheels possible without fouling the brakes for improved handling/unsprung weight.
Edited by Seabass on Saturday 1st March 15:32
Seabass
More Grip! On the original 185s or 195/70's my Taimar would get out of shape quite easily (it did have a tad more power than standard). With the large wheels/tyres 205/55/15 and 225/50/15, it just gripped and gripped, it was very hard to get out of shape (except in the wet), but when it did go, boy, was it quick!
It also getting harder to get decent rubber for smaller rim sizes, and if I was doing it today I would probably go for 16s.
My benchmark was that modded I could go through the Cramer Curves at Donington at over 100mph (genuine) without lifting, I don't reckon you could do that in a standard car.
Hope that helps
davidy
More Grip! On the original 185s or 195/70's my Taimar would get out of shape quite easily (it did have a tad more power than standard). With the large wheels/tyres 205/55/15 and 225/50/15, it just gripped and gripped, it was very hard to get out of shape (except in the wet), but when it did go, boy, was it quick!
It also getting harder to get decent rubber for smaller rim sizes, and if I was doing it today I would probably go for 16s.
My benchmark was that modded I could go through the Cramer Curves at Donington at over 100mph (genuine) without lifting, I don't reckon you could do that in a standard car.
Hope that helps
davidy
Edited by DavidY on Sunday 2nd March 08:52
Totally agree!! Many years ago I used to sprint and trackday a 3000m and ran with 225/50/15 the grip was massive over standard tyre spec also less roll !!
Something to condsider, I ran with race springs which didnt allow you to have a 2nd person in the car because it was so low, found out after a quick 10 min drive and lost both my rear silencers!!
Ooooww bringing back happy memories!! ;o)
Something to condsider, I ran with race springs which didnt allow you to have a 2nd person in the car because it was so low, found out after a quick 10 min drive and lost both my rear silencers!!
Ooooww bringing back happy memories!! ;o)
When I was hillclimbing and sprinting my M turbo, I started with T slots but a good tyre was hard to find. Infact, I didnt find one. I bought some Compmotive ML's and fitted Yoko A539s. 205/55/15s? The grip was better but the wheels weighed a huge amount more. Didnt get to use them much before I sold the car.
I also used Ferodo DS2500 pads which made a big impact on braking. DS3000's if all motorsport I guess.
AVO shocks and firmer springs also help. I never got to changing ARB but that was next on the list.
I also used Ferodo DS2500 pads which made a big impact on braking. DS3000's if all motorsport I guess.
AVO shocks and firmer springs also help. I never got to changing ARB but that was next on the list.
Edited by TimmyArt on Thursday 6th March 13:26
This thread interests me as I too have been considering a 3000M or Taimar for sprints/hillclimbs, I have also considered a 1600M on the basis that it would be lighter and tuning parts for crossflows are easy to come by, though I guess the engines are getting to be harder to source.
Let us know how you get on Carl.
Let us know how you get on Carl.
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