REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH
Discussion
Hi Kaneit
From what I remember, the reverse switch is located vertically on the output shaft extension towards the rear and, in effect, immediately beneath the gear stick.
You should be able to access it from beneath providing there is space above the exhaust pipes.
Hope this helps
Alan
From what I remember, the reverse switch is located vertically on the output shaft extension towards the rear and, in effect, immediately beneath the gear stick.
You should be able to access it from beneath providing there is space above the exhaust pipes.
Hope this helps
Alan
Edited by youngnick1 on Sunday 17th August 06:41
IIRC, my 3000M had two pins sticking out of the bottom of the switch that the wires connect to. Trouble is, it's very easy to break off the pins when removing/replacing the gearbox. Looks like that has happened to the switch in the photo.
A few years ago, the switches were hen's teeth, so good luck.
Paul.
A few years ago, the switches were hen's teeth, so good luck.
Paul.
KANEIT said:
Thank you all again. Mine appears to be missing the pins too and that's why I was stumped as to how the wires connected - DOH!
Oh goody!
If you dig away the plastic carefully, you might be able to expose enough of the stumps to solder a wire onto them. If it doesn't work, you're no worse off.Oh goody!
Also,it might be worth contacting (no pun intended) Adrian Venn for advice. I'm sure this problem must crop up fairly frequently.
Paul
You could try this lot....... http://www.tickover.co.uk/index.htm I've had the occasional hard to find part from them and found them to be very helpful. Assume you can't get one from either Mr Venn or Mr Read?
Phil
Phil
Here is what you are dealing with.
If you are careful, I'm not, you can get the plastic housing out of the metal case. ( I am an engineer by trade and don't want to get to techy, but in engineering terms I held the unit in a vice and t
tted it out with a screwdriver blade and hammer).
Inside the two copper right angle pieces are what the origional pins attached too, I think like a pop rivet kind of fitting.
You may be able to solder wire tails too these and then put new joint outside of the casing.
I think you may be better with a very small threaded set screw that can be pushed through from the inside and the secured with a nut to the outer part, bear in mind you dont want the copper contacts to move inside the housing or they could ride up and contact on thier own, they are subject to a lot of vibration and of course movement in use.
If available I would try to get a new or replacement unit first, but if there not, I would say repairable in a Heath Robison kind of way.
John.
If you are careful, I'm not, you can get the plastic housing out of the metal case. ( I am an engineer by trade and don't want to get to techy, but in engineering terms I held the unit in a vice and t
tted it out with a screwdriver blade and hammer).Inside the two copper right angle pieces are what the origional pins attached too, I think like a pop rivet kind of fitting.
You may be able to solder wire tails too these and then put new joint outside of the casing.
I think you may be better with a very small threaded set screw that can be pushed through from the inside and the secured with a nut to the outer part, bear in mind you dont want the copper contacts to move inside the housing or they could ride up and contact on thier own, they are subject to a lot of vibration and of course movement in use.
If available I would try to get a new or replacement unit first, but if there not, I would say repairable in a Heath Robison kind of way.
John.
Edited by GAjon on Wednesday 27th August 18:14
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