CV and disc brake on M series rear

[Slow M]

Conversion to rear CV and disc brake on my 1975 M.
I like junk yard (breaker) donors (because I'm cheap).
The parts for this mod are Nissan 240 SX.
The bolt circle is 4 on 4 1/2".
In retrospect, I'd rather have a new steel bearing carrier machined. That would put the wheels closer to where they're supposed to be.







This is the first sign of significant progress on this project in two years.
B.

[heightswitch]

Slow M said:

Conversion to rear CV and disc brake on my 1975 M.
I like junk yard (breaker) donors (because I'm cheap).
The parts for this mod are Nissan 240 SX.
The bolt circle is 4 on 4 1/2".
In retrospect, I'd rather have a new steel bearing carrier machined. That would put the wheels closer to where they're supposed to be.







This is the first sign of significant progress on this project in two years.
B.

I am interested in this swap Bernard.

What are the big hunks of Aluminium supporting your hub for the photo. I take it they are from the Nissan.
I am assuming that the hubs are the same as our 200SX over here in UK??

I have also looked at the Corvette Hub which is very cheap compared to some of the stuff over here but This would mean going to 5 stud unless of course the flanges had enough meat on them to re-dril to 4 x 4.5pcd.

Heavy duty triumph hubs can be bought but are (in your money) $2000 per pair

I know that there is a big tuning industry for the drift boys around the 240sx, Is anything uprated available in the states for this set up.

lots of ideas are mulling around at the minute.

N.

[Slow M]

Neil,
the aluminium plates are custom machined from 5000 series aluminium in the T6 temper. There are two adapter plates in order to locate the caliper correctly in relationship to the disc. The one closer to the upright is 1/2", the second is 1/4".

After seeing how the pieces fit together, my machinist (read: neighbor) said that it would have been easier to do this from a single piece of AL as opposed to two as the set up time for drilling the holes essentially doubled.

According to http://www.driveshaftshop.com/pdetail.php?pid=557, the people I'll be asking to do my axles, the Nissan stub axles are "are made from Japanese spec material very close to our 4130 chromoly (good) but the center bars are made poorly."

I do not know what models interchange between Japan, the UK and the USA but there are S13 and S14 variants of the USA model 240SX. 4 and 5 bolt hubs are available for each.

The single largest drawback of this design is that the hubs fasten to the adapter plates from behind and the uprights have to have reliefs drilled into them unless you can find a source for (reasonably priced) flat socket head 12mm x 1.25 x 40 high tensile strength screws.

If you like, I can send you the cad drawings for these adapter plates.
Bernard.

[heightswitch]

Can the hubs be bolted on from the outside bernard, assuming a custom made upright with the correct threaded holes? are they bolted from the outside on the donor Nissan?

Agree with the single bit for the bracket with the relevant bits milled off to give you offset.

I am looking at this hub with a different idea surrounding keeping the triumph derived rear drum set up for the sake of perceived originality.

Neil.

Edited by heightswitch on Monday 6th October 20:06

[Slow M]

heightswitch said:

Can the hubs be bolted on from the outside... ... idea surrounding keeping the triumph derived rear drum set up for the sake of perceived originality.

Neil, I think that the best thing to do in your case would be to keep the upright but have a new bearing carrier machined to fit the bolt circle and hole pattern of the existing upright. You would still have to chuck the drum in a lathe and enlarge the ID to fit the hub but you could get the offset to match you extant drum setup and you wouldn't need any further adapters.

Then you'd still have to figure out the axles.

B

[heightswitch]

Slow M said:

heightswitch said:

Can the hubs be bolted on from the outside... ... idea surrounding keeping the triumph derived rear drum set up for the sake of perceived originality.

Neil, I think that the best thing to do in your case would be to keep the upright but have a new bearing carrier machined to fit the bolt circle and hole pattern of the existing upright. You would still have to chuck the drum in a lathe and enlarge the ID to fit the hub but you could get the offset to match you extant drum setup and you wouldn't need any further adapters.

Then you'd still have to figure out the axles.

B

I like the concept of using readily available cheap parts for reliable power Bernard. I am going one of 3 ways at the moment, not decided which yet.

looking for a milling machine for Christmas.

N.

[Slow M]

Then, maybe, you can move in and become my other neighbor. LOL
I still need to do a lot of work!
Best of luck with your christmas present.
BH