Salisbury LSD Jag > 3000M
Discussion
I have a 3.03 LSD taken from an XJS that I want to fit to my 5000M. As the Jag is a lot heavier than the TVR do I need to get it rebuilt with different settings ? Any recommendations on what they should be ?
On my 3.54 diff that came off an S type it looks like the diff was a direct swap for the old non LSD Salisbury. Can you simply take the discs of the diff and directly connect the driveshafts or should their be a spacer the thickness of the discs ??
Thanks
Chris
On my 3.54 diff that came off an S type it looks like the diff was a direct swap for the old non LSD Salisbury. Can you simply take the discs of the diff and directly connect the driveshafts or should their be a spacer the thickness of the discs ??
Thanks
Chris
Electron said:
I have a 3.03 LSD taken from an XJS that I want to fit to my 5000M. As the Jag is a lot heavier than the TVR do I need to get it rebuilt with different settings ? Any recommendations on what they should be ?
On my 3.54 diff that came off an S type it looks like the diff was a direct swap for the old non LSD Salisbury. Can you simply take the discs of the diff and directly connect the driveshafts or should their be a spacer the thickness of the discs ??
Thanks
Chris
Hi chris.On my 3.54 diff that came off an S type it looks like the diff was a direct swap for the old non LSD Salisbury. Can you simply take the discs of the diff and directly connect the driveshafts or should their be a spacer the thickness of the discs ??
Thanks
Chris
Yes you do. The ramp angles need to be changed on the 4HU and they need to be changed by someone that knows what they are doing. As std the diff will kick in far too severely and nose you on severely in corners producing severe understeer
You also need spacer plates which are approx 8-10mm thick when you remove the inboard discs.
If you are running a 5 sp I would recommend a 3.31 or 3.54. you sound like you have a 3.07 not a 3.03 unless I am mistaken and there was a 3.03 made!
Have a talk with John Reid.
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Sunday 15th February 15:20
heightswitch said:
Electron said:
I have a 3.03 LSD taken from an XJS that I want to fit to my 5000M. As the Jag is a lot heavier than the TVR do I need to get it rebuilt with different settings ? Any recommendations on what they should be ?
On my 3.54 diff that came off an S type it looks like the diff was a direct swap for the old non LSD Salisbury. Can you simply take the discs of the diff and directly connect the driveshafts or should their be a spacer the thickness of the discs ??
Thanks
Chris
Hi chris.On my 3.54 diff that came off an S type it looks like the diff was a direct swap for the old non LSD Salisbury. Can you simply take the discs of the diff and directly connect the driveshafts or should their be a spacer the thickness of the discs ??
Thanks
Chris
Yes you do. The ramp angles need to be changed on the 4HU and they need to be changed by someone that knows what they are doing. As std the diff will kick in far too severely and nose you on severely in corners producing severe understeer
You also need spacer plates which are approx 8-10mm thick when you remove the inboard discs.
If you are running a 5 sp I would recommend a 3.31 or 3.54. you sound like you have a 3.07 not a 3.03 unless I am mistaken and there was a 3.03 made!
Have a talk with John Reid.
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Sunday 15th February 15:20
r's
David
All,
Thanks for the replies....
Sorry yes it's a 3.07 from a late XJS.
I'm currently running a worldclass T5 (Mustang) gearbox with 15" wheels with 50 profile Yokohamas with the 3.54 and an on/off race clutch. First is currently obsolete and I can get wheelspin starting in second .....
I now intend to run the car on the road as I think this will be the only way I can get sufficient miles on her to iron out the bugs (mainly overheating)and build in some reliability......
On this basis the thought is to use slightly taller 60 profile tyres and the replacement diff. I'll also go for a road clutch.
I'm also thinking of going for discs at the rear ....
Lets hope for some good weather to start things moving again ...
Thanks
Chris
Thanks for the replies....
Sorry yes it's a 3.07 from a late XJS.
I'm currently running a worldclass T5 (Mustang) gearbox with 15" wheels with 50 profile Yokohamas with the 3.54 and an on/off race clutch. First is currently obsolete and I can get wheelspin starting in second .....
I now intend to run the car on the road as I think this will be the only way I can get sufficient miles on her to iron out the bugs (mainly overheating)and build in some reliability......
On this basis the thought is to use slightly taller 60 profile tyres and the replacement diff. I'll also go for a road clutch.
I'm also thinking of going for discs at the rear ....
Lets hope for some good weather to start things moving again ...
Thanks
Chris
Be careful that a 3.07 does not make 5th gear too low. I have a 5000M with a T5 and with 205/55-16 tyres 75 MPH is about 2200 rpm which is about 300 rpm less than where the engine really smooths out. First gear is not for acceleration but for going slowly when stuck in traffic jams so that you are not always slipping the clutch
heightswitch said:
Electron said:
I have a 3.03 LSD taken from an XJS that I want to fit to my 5000M...
...The ramp angles need to be changed on the 4HU and they need to be changed by someone that knows what they are doing...B
Hi guys!
I will fit a 4HU 3.07 PL to my 3000M soon. I would like to change the ramp to my own specifications but where can you actually buy seperate ramps for a 4hu??
You will probably need the complete stub axle right? Anyone knows where or how to buy/make? I would also like to know if anyone found a set of new clutch plates for the 4HU. What would they cost and where are they for sale?
Cheers.
Keep them rolling!
Milko
I will fit a 4HU 3.07 PL to my 3000M soon. I would like to change the ramp to my own specifications but where can you actually buy seperate ramps for a 4hu??
You will probably need the complete stub axle right? Anyone knows where or how to buy/make? I would also like to know if anyone found a set of new clutch plates for the 4HU. What would they cost and where are they for sale?
Cheers.
Keep them rolling!
Milko
milko said:
Hi guys!
I will fit a 4HU 3.07 PL to my 3000M soon. I would like to change the ramp to my own specifications but where can you actually buy seperate ramps for a 4hu??
You will probably need the complete stub axle right? Anyone knows where or how to buy/make? I would also like to know if anyone found a set of new clutch plates for the 4HU. What would they cost and where are they for sale?
Cheers.
Keep them rolling!
Milko
A number of specialists sell altered ramps. Steve Reid has a set in his garage at the moment and they seem to be going up and down nicely He may sell to you. You will also need 1/2 lb of tracking to go with the rampsI will fit a 4HU 3.07 PL to my 3000M soon. I would like to change the ramp to my own specifications but where can you actually buy seperate ramps for a 4hu??
You will probably need the complete stub axle right? Anyone knows where or how to buy/make? I would also like to know if anyone found a set of new clutch plates for the 4HU. What would they cost and where are they for sale?
Cheers.
Keep them rolling!
Milko
http://www.classictvr.co.uk/
N

Edited by heightswitch on Monday 25th January 22:26
Turbster said:
Just what I thought, ran a 3:54 in my Scimitar with a T5 and 205/60/15s and never used 5th, even at Snett...
3.7 with a 5sp paul!!N.
I'm running a 3.31 with my 4 sp to start.
the 3.07 4HU was std fit to the griff 400 in road car trim running a Super T10 or Toploader
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Thursday 28th January 05:01
Turbster said:
3.7 is what I've gone for N, if it's wrong all the other ratios are available, but seems like a good place to start based on the Scim with same diff and box??
Paul.
My M runs a 3,7(7?) with a T5 (15" wheels) 5th ratio is .93 rather than the 0.8 some T5s have. Paul.
Previous diff was 3,54 and 5th was just something that was carried about in the gearbox, now its being used.
Yes it is 3.77, and that backs up my theory.. Same with me, I remember doing Snett for the first time and thinking I'd use 5th and it was just getting to the rev limiter in 4th as I braked. Car would've gone so much better with a 3.77 as most of my problems were down to gearing, decided to build a new car instead 

Edited by Turbster on Thursday 28th January 11:38
Edited by Turbster on Thursday 28th January 12:02
I never got into 5th gear sprinting ... rarely into 4th ..my challenge was getting it off the line ... 1st gear was unuseable and I was starting in 2nd. My logic said change the diff.
My T5 is a standard Worldclass Mustang box. Wheels are 15" with 50 profile tyres.
I guess the other variables are a less vicious clutch or sadly "driver training" ..
Car is parked up for this year as work has got in the way ...
Electron said:
I never got into 5th gear sprinting ... rarely into 4th ..my challenge was getting it off the line ... 1st gear was unuseable and I was starting in 2nd. My logic said change the diff.
My T5 is a standard Worldclass Mustang box. Wheels are 15" with 50 profile tyres.
I guess the other variables are a less vicious clutch or sadly "driver training" ..
Car is parked up for this year as work has got in the way ...
stang T5 is different to European T5, different first motion shaft, imperial v metric splines and 5th in an american T5 is very Very long.My T5 is a standard Worldclass Mustang box. Wheels are 15" with 50 profile tyres.
I guess the other variables are a less vicious clutch or sadly "driver training" ..
Car is parked up for this year as work has got in the way ...
N.
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