M suspension mod

[Slow M]

Well, my rear uprights are finally back from machining and the 240SX hub adapters now fit properly. Next, I'll get some reinforcement welded into the lower A-arms, along with pick-up points for a rear anti sway bar.
Does anybody KNOW what gauge steel tubing TVR used in the constuction of said A-arms?
THX,
B.

[tegwin]

Sorry, I cant help you.

But do you have any photos of your work?

[Slow M]

tegwin said:

do you have any photos of your work?

tegwin, I can't promise a timeframe but will eventually post pics.
(Working VERY long hours right now.)
B

[GAjon]

TVR used a mixture of 16swg(1.5mm) and 14swg(2mm)tubing for the chassis and suspension. I would (have) used 14swg on the rear wishbones.
I think I have a picture I will post.



John

Edited by GAjon on Monday 22 June 17:00

[heightswitch]

GAjon said:

TVR used a mixture of 16swg(1.5mm) and 14swg(2mm)tubing for the chassis and suspension. I would (have) used 14swg on the rear wishbones.
I think I have a picture I will post.



John

Edited by GAjon on Monday 22 June 17:00

14g T45 CDS would be the tube of choice.

Cue Adrians arrival to advise on strengthening plates etc.

N

JON. I have bought a Blue beer fridge . Should be ready for mallory!!
N.

[GAjon]

heightswitch said:

JON. I have bought a Blue beer fridge . Should be ready for mallory!!
N.

I hope it has TVR badges on it! None inside though, take up to much space.

[heightswitch]

GAjon said:

heightswitch said:

JON. I have bought a Blue beer fridge . Should be ready for mallory!!
N.

I hope it has TVR badges on it! None inside though, take up to much space.

Its going to be painted the same colour as the racer and have some tastefull adornments



N.

[GAjon]

heightswitch said:

GAjon said:

heightswitch said:

JON. I have bought a Blue beer fridge . Should be ready for mallory!!
N.

I hope it has TVR badges on it! None inside though, take up to much space.

Its going to be painted the same colour as the racer and have some tastefull adornments



N.

The A Team? Fantastic.

[Slow M]

Many thanks for the info!
B.

[Slow M]

[Slow M]

[Slow M]

[Slow M]

Thanks GAjon, that was helpful!
The new piece is 14 gauge chromoly 4130.

[heightswitch]

Looking good Bernard.
N.

[GAjon]

Slow M said:

Like the look of the caliper mounting bracket, very nice.

Tell me, whats the thought/logic /expectations/benefits behind the blanking and welding of the plates into the upright casting, do I need to get a AC tig set??

John

PS. What was your removed comment on roller rockers thread, just beng nosey?

[Slow M]

Thanks guys!

John, the filling (with 3/8" 6360 T6 plate) of the holes at the back of the uprights was done to aid rigidity. I was told that the uprights flex under large applications of torque and, eventually, develop cracks.

The removed post was just a brainfart.
B.

[Seabass]

Have you moved the bearing loading from inside the hub to outside the mounting face?
Will that not put a massive load on the studs into the upright casting?
U'm not familiar with the M rear uprights at all...

JC

[Slow M]

Seabass said:

Have you moved the bearing loading from inside the hub to outside the mounting face?
Will that not put a massive load on the studs into the upright casting?
U'm not familiar with the M rear uprights at all...

JC

James,
have a look at the first of the pictures I posted above, the heads of the 4 allen head bolts will act as locating dowels.
This will be similar in concept to the tight fit of the original hub in the upright.
The studs are in tension, as they were before but they are also in shear (along with the dowels) under braking.
The brake caliper mounting plate ID is a tight fit to the hub and the Allen heads are countersunk into it as well.

B.