Grantura 2a... king post bushes

[Adrian@]

For car club members, you might of seen this post, but I thought I would ask a perhaps wider audience..

From what I understand the Grantura/ Rover King post bushes are no more (these are modified when fitted to the TVR and the poly version of Rover part that also needs TO BE modified are 150.00 per set of 6, we need 16!!!).
BUT the more I look at the superflex version that has been offered (which also needs modifying ...and is not the poly version of the Rover part) in it's place, which has no sleeve to run on the 3/4 BSF bolt, the more I want to create a sleeve and washer set up with a glacier bearing (I would need to modify the poly and create 2 versions as the front lowers are different).....someone must of looked at this and already been there.

Neil's (heightswitch) comment was to go for a nylatron bush...I aready have the superflex bush to work with.

There is every reason for nylatron in this application, as I hated the last 2a I drove with it's 4 wheel steering !! But there has to be some suspension compliance here too, I can see that the OE bush had deformed under the compression loads when the 3/4 mounting pin bolt had been locked up, gripping the pin. MY thoughts are that this 'joint' needs full loading across the full width of the alloy casting, so my poly bush must be of a size that when it does get compressed from each end it expands internally ....at this point the OE bush has a steel liner (it's is a twin metalastik top hat part ) which then pivots on the bolt, but as this then corrupts and grips the pin, which is then once the camber settings are set, (it has a cotter pin) locked in it's position, it would seem we only have the rotational torsion of that bushing as compliance and if not set at ride height, including some weight ,this will have the whole car sprung like a cat ready to jump off the road....Back to the plot, I want to put a steel tube and 2 washers to give me compression/internal expansion to the alloy casting, but then a glacier bearing liner to allow rotation of the joint so that the torsion bars to carry the weight of the car.

Has anyone have any other thoughts/methods/viewpoint.
Adrian@

[Slow M]

Adrian,

In addition to nylatron, other materials to consider are bronze, which would allow a grease zerk to be used, carsan (sp?) and polytetrafluoroethylene (teflon). You could also cast your own poly. I'll duck my head into my garage tomorrow to look up the stuff I've used for various projects. (at work now)

B

[TaimarSE]

Hi Adrian

have you tried looking at DU Bushes just google it and go for Glacier bushes and you can browse a pdf brochure on all types of bushes,sizes are also there so you may find something to suit your need.

cheers Garry

try here: http://www.ashleypower.co.uk/PDF/BUSHES.pdf

Edited by TaimarSE on Thursday 8th October 16:00

Edited by TaimarSE on Thursday 8th October 16:37

[Adrian@]

Thanks Gary, I had not spent time to look for the bushes ...so that's just perfect.
Unless anyone comes up with a better idea, I'm boring the Poly bush to take a sleeve and glacier bearing, that way I can compress it and force it to expand and mate with the uneven surfaces of the alloy casting, so that it does not rip apart from being loose or with a little rust from road use, My solution should allow rotation.
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 8th October 21:30

[Slow M]

Adrian, just in case you want to do any DIY urethane in the future -the product is called Devcon here in the US and sets up much harder than the blue Superflex bushes I have.
B

[Adrian@]

Hi Bernard,
Thanks, I did not want these to be too hard, but I do want the upright to go through the correct arc and transfer the leverage to the torsion bars cleanly. I could see no way that the superflex bush would rotate especially as the outer edge runs on the threaded part of the bolt (over the end of the shank).
Adrian@