Leaking Essex clutch slave cylinder

[ATE399J]

Advice please......

My essex has the Zodiac gearbox / clutch that is hydraulically actuated. The slave has been weeping a little for a while but this has now accelerated into a trickle and before long it'll be a steady stream no doubt.

The alloy cylinder has (not surprisingly) corrosion-welded itself to the steel(?) mounting ring that's part of the bell housing.

I don't really want to take out the engine & 'box so is it possible to change the seals with the thing in place and if so how?

If not, has anyone got a cunning plan to get the thing out without busting its bell housing mount?

[nwarner]

When I had the same problem on my Vixen I sprayed it with PlusGas every day for a week and then it came out with relative ease.

[youngnick]

You could try a little heat - but of course this will probably damage internal / external rubber components.

[GAjon]

youngnick said:

You could try a little heat - but of course this will probably damage internal / external rubber components.

Hydraulic fluid is very flammable also.

[ATE399J]

Don't think heat is the answer, alloy cylinder would expand faster than the steel cuff in which it is entombed!

Will try plus-gas / WD-40 route but really wanted to know if seals can be changed with the thing in-situ (I guess I'd need at least one more pair of elbows in my arms though!).

Thanks for the advice.

Phil

[nwarner]

ATE399J said:

Will try plus-gas / WD-40 route but really wanted to know if seals can be changed with the thing in-situ (I guess I'd need at least one more pair of elbows in my arms though!).

PlusGas is far better than WD-40 in this instance.

I don't know what the access is like, as my 3000S has a cable clutch, but to change the seal in situ first depends on whether you can get the push-rod out. Then you will have to be able to get some circlip pliers in to remove the circlip, which can also be stuck in with corrosion. It will then just be a case of pushing the cylinder out. The next problem however is that you probably won't be able to see if the bore is OK. If you end up wrecking it or the bore is badly scored try Adrian Venn, Steve Reid etc. or if that fails Burton Power used to have replacements but they were over £100

[Electron]

Sorry no advice on extracting it but my gearbox is on the bench so will check how the slave is fitted ... also have a source for reconditioned slave cylinders with a stainless steel sleeve ... pm me if you want details.

[Electron]

Just looked at the one on the bench and I assume the circlip that holds it in place came off easily ???

[ATE399J]

I agreed with comments wrt the state of the bore.

Circlip has been off for ages!!! Been driving the car like that for 4 years - corrosion caused by differing materials is keeping it in! Was wondering if I could either:-

1. depress clutch
2. use wooden wedge to keep clutch disengaged (bell housing aperture)
3. release clutch pedal
4. remove rod
5. Pump out piston & replace seal(s)

Or:-

1. Lots of Plus Gas (NOT WD-40 - comment noted!)
2. Wooden wedge into bell housing aperture to stop clutch "working"
3. Stand on clutch pedal to use its action to force cylinder out of its mounting.
4. Repair / replace cyl on the bench.

Thoughts?

Phil

Edited by ATE399J on Monday 7th December 16:11

[nwarner]

The circlip I was refering to was the one in the bore of the cylinder that stops the piston from coming out fully. Of course the essex one could be different to mine on the Vixen and doesn't have one. Also it could be my memory playing up as it was over ten years ago that I did it.

When I put it back in I coated the bell housing and the slave cyclinder, where they touch, with copperslip and it has came out without any problems when I next had to remove it.

I would try your 2nd option 1st and if it still fails to release then try your 1st option.

You may also find a gentle tapping of the bell housing area whilst pressing the slave cylinder may help release. Don't hit the slave cylinder unless you want to buy a new one.


Nige

Edited by nwarner on Monday 7th December 15:55

[Electron]

Sorry speed and haste on my part .....

I've pulled the slave cylinder off and removed the internal circlip and there is a crust of alloy/crud and the piston is definately stuck .. my car has been off the road for many years.

The local college engineer suggested putting a grease nipple the cylinder and pumping the piston out with grease ....

Do you want me to go first ?

[ATE399J]

Chris,

Mine is working fine but leaking. Have you been able to get the cylinder out of its bell housing mounting? There's a circlip around the outside of the cylinder (supposed to stop the cylinder coming out - a bit superfluous on mine!) then the cylinder should slide out forward - that's where I'm stuck - literally!

Phil.

Edited by ATE399J on Monday 7th December 21:29

Edited by ATE399J on Monday 7th December 21:30

[nwarner]

[quote=Electron]Sorry speed and haste on my part .....

The local college engineer suggested putting a grease nipple the cylinder and pumping the piston out with grease ....

[quote]

I would soak it with Plus Gas for a week and then try hitting it onto a wooden block to try and release the cylinder before trying the grease nipple aproach. If you do try it make sure there's no on in the line of fire incase it gives way all of a sudden.

[Electron]

Apologies I keep reading the thread and misunderstanding the challenge ...old age and insanity.

Phil listen to Nigel :-)

If you smash the slave cylinder and get really really stuck PM me as have a spare slave .....

Just to update you my slave cylinder came away quite easily from the bellhousing but is full of crud under the rubber sleeve and I still need to extract the piston to fit the new seal kit !!

I also have to confess it's attached to a Gilbern not a TVR :-)

[geertvanhout]

new slave cylinders are remanufactured and still available. try ebay or me: i keep them in stock.