2500M Sort-Through - Some Thoughts Appreciated
Discussion
I'm doing a thorough sorting through my 2500M. Mostly chasing after 35 year old
bits to replace/rebuild. I do unfortunately have to replace the cylinder head
gasket. I have a couple of questions:
The Radiator.
I would like to go with an alloy thing; a copy of what's there, low and deep
with all the same inlets/outlets and other fittings, just in alloy, but I
haven't ever had overheating problems (except when I stupidly misunderstood the
cooling system operation and changed the cap configuration, which is what ended
up blowing the cylinder head gasket) and I don't really want to spend the money
on one.
I'd like to to have a properly functioning stock radiator. One clear issue to
deal with here is the way the Otter switch is fit into the radiator side tank.
It's stuck into a grommet that's now 35 years aold and not holding on to the
switch very well. A fresh grommet would probably do. Though not ideal, it's
still a live option. Any one know of a quick source for a new grommet?
Otherwise, I'm going through catalogs like McMaster-Carr to find one.
Better would be a threaded-in switch. Anyone replace the fitting and switch
with a threaded one?
The Rear Uprights/Hub Carriers and the Lower Control Arms
All the suspension/chassis rubber bits have to be replaced. The only bit of
this I'm concerned about is getting the outer rear lower control arms off.
They're on that long stud pressed through the lower part of the upright. Any
tips, hints, tricks to offer in advance to get these apart so I can replace the
rear lower outer control arm bushes. (you know, a spherical bearing mod could
make this easier to do)
Brake Vacuum Servo
My brake master cylinder is weeping fluid out the back. It's taken the paint of
the front of the servo. This kind of weeping usually means fluid in the bottom
of the servo housing, and I'd like to replace the few rubber bits inside as well
as repaint it. Any one have any experience they'd like to share about opening
up this servo. I haven't usually found taking these apart to be too tricky, on
the very few times I have done this, but I thought I'd ask.
Also, the master brake cylinder reservoir fouls on the inside of the hood/bonnet
when the bonnet is closed, which then cause the hood to be adjusted for an
uneven shut line on this side of the car. It would be nice to lower the master
cylinder/vacuum servo assembly to get clearance and a straight shut line.
Rack and Anti roll Bar and Spherical Bearings
Anyone replaced the rack tie-rod ends and anti-roll bar drop link with spherical
bearing bits? And, anyone sourced solid alloy anti-roll bar mounts? I'd love
to know the part numbers, otherwise it's off again to catalogs to source the
parts, or make something.
Thanks!
- SJ
bits to replace/rebuild. I do unfortunately have to replace the cylinder head
gasket. I have a couple of questions:
The Radiator.
I would like to go with an alloy thing; a copy of what's there, low and deep
with all the same inlets/outlets and other fittings, just in alloy, but I
haven't ever had overheating problems (except when I stupidly misunderstood the
cooling system operation and changed the cap configuration, which is what ended
up blowing the cylinder head gasket) and I don't really want to spend the money
on one.
I'd like to to have a properly functioning stock radiator. One clear issue to
deal with here is the way the Otter switch is fit into the radiator side tank.
It's stuck into a grommet that's now 35 years aold and not holding on to the
switch very well. A fresh grommet would probably do. Though not ideal, it's
still a live option. Any one know of a quick source for a new grommet?
Otherwise, I'm going through catalogs like McMaster-Carr to find one.
Better would be a threaded-in switch. Anyone replace the fitting and switch
with a threaded one?
The Rear Uprights/Hub Carriers and the Lower Control Arms
All the suspension/chassis rubber bits have to be replaced. The only bit of
this I'm concerned about is getting the outer rear lower control arms off.
They're on that long stud pressed through the lower part of the upright. Any
tips, hints, tricks to offer in advance to get these apart so I can replace the
rear lower outer control arm bushes. (you know, a spherical bearing mod could
make this easier to do)
Brake Vacuum Servo
My brake master cylinder is weeping fluid out the back. It's taken the paint of
the front of the servo. This kind of weeping usually means fluid in the bottom
of the servo housing, and I'd like to replace the few rubber bits inside as well
as repaint it. Any one have any experience they'd like to share about opening
up this servo. I haven't usually found taking these apart to be too tricky, on
the very few times I have done this, but I thought I'd ask.
Also, the master brake cylinder reservoir fouls on the inside of the hood/bonnet
when the bonnet is closed, which then cause the hood to be adjusted for an
uneven shut line on this side of the car. It would be nice to lower the master
cylinder/vacuum servo assembly to get clearance and a straight shut line.
Rack and Anti roll Bar and Spherical Bearings
Anyone replaced the rack tie-rod ends and anti-roll bar drop link with spherical
bearing bits? And, anyone sourced solid alloy anti-roll bar mounts? I'd love
to know the part numbers, otherwise it's off again to catalogs to source the
parts, or make something.
Thanks!
- SJ
Radiator: a threaded-in switch sounds best. You can also call 416-752-7226 and ask Doug to mail you a rubber grommet.
The Rear Uprights/Hub Carriers and the Lower Control Arms: Adrian must be getting tired of re-writing about this ad nauseam. He's posted the correct procedure here too many times to count. Too bad search is for s
t any more. That function addicted me to this site. Still, best to try google site:http://www.pistonheads.com and look for: drill, stud, upright, corrosion, or some variation.
(you know, a spherical bearing mod could make this easier to do): I think you're wrong and I wouldn't do it!!! The rear on an M is designed to toe in. As the LCAs, which are mounted parallel to the CL of the chassis, on their inboard side, swing up or down, the top of the upright wants to pivot fore and aft. You'd be inducing lock-up or breakage of the upright or control arms or the chassis side mounts. The bushes need some flex.
Brake Vacuum Servo: a wedge shape spacer between the outside of the body and the vacuum assist will lower the master cylinder.
Rack and Anti roll Bar and Spherical Bearings: Chris Zappa's car. http://www.britishracecar.com/MichaelZappa-TVR-Tus...
Anyone replaced the rack tie-rod ends and
replaced the anti-roll bar drop link with spherical bearing bits: I did a drawing and posted it here a few months ago. All the parts are noted IIRC.
solid alloy anti-roll bar mounts: Richard Good does these if I'm not mistaken.
Are you going racing?
The Rear Uprights/Hub Carriers and the Lower Control Arms: Adrian must be getting tired of re-writing about this ad nauseam. He's posted the correct procedure here too many times to count. Too bad search is for s
t any more. That function addicted me to this site. Still, best to try google site:http://www.pistonheads.com and look for: drill, stud, upright, corrosion, or some variation. (you know, a spherical bearing mod could make this easier to do): I think you're wrong and I wouldn't do it!!! The rear on an M is designed to toe in. As the LCAs, which are mounted parallel to the CL of the chassis, on their inboard side, swing up or down, the top of the upright wants to pivot fore and aft. You'd be inducing lock-up or breakage of the upright or control arms or the chassis side mounts. The bushes need some flex.
Brake Vacuum Servo: a wedge shape spacer between the outside of the body and the vacuum assist will lower the master cylinder.
Rack and Anti roll Bar and Spherical Bearings: Chris Zappa's car. http://www.britishracecar.com/MichaelZappa-TVR-Tus...
Anyone replaced the rack tie-rod ends and
replaced the anti-roll bar drop link with spherical bearing bits: I did a drawing and posted it here a few months ago. All the parts are noted IIRC.
solid alloy anti-roll bar mounts: Richard Good does these if I'm not mistaken.
Are you going racing?
Hey, Slow:
Thanks for the reply. Pistonheads search isn't working. Doing some Google searches I did find a little bit from Adrian on the rear upright/control arm bushing thing. I pinged him on some details. It looks like he destroys the studs in the process in order to save the uprights. Can do, but where to get replacement studs? I could make one, or dig through hardware catalogs, but if someone's got one...
I couldn't find your post about spherical bearing drop-link conversion. I can certainly do this myself, but the benefit of someone having done it before is appreciated.
Simple "pillow block" aluminum mounts I can easily make, but if someone's got 'em that might be easier.
Doug? Just call Doug? Sounds a bit like a speak easy for rubber Otter switch grommets?
Racing? I'm not a tourer in my toy cars. Just don't enjoy it. This car's mileage is pretty much all from track activities. Don't know that I'd make different choices if I could somehow make them again, and I do really enjoy my "production-based" "road-car" toy cars, but my thinking today is that I just would've bought a used Formula Ford 1600/2000 (some of the Van Dieman models are looking quite attractive) or C/DSR/S2000 and called it a day. But I kinda had to work my way into thinking this way about my car interest.
Thanks for the reply. Pistonheads search isn't working. Doing some Google searches I did find a little bit from Adrian on the rear upright/control arm bushing thing. I pinged him on some details. It looks like he destroys the studs in the process in order to save the uprights. Can do, but where to get replacement studs? I could make one, or dig through hardware catalogs, but if someone's got one...
I couldn't find your post about spherical bearing drop-link conversion. I can certainly do this myself, but the benefit of someone having done it before is appreciated.
Simple "pillow block" aluminum mounts I can easily make, but if someone's got 'em that might be easier.
Doug? Just call Doug? Sounds a bit like a speak easy for rubber Otter switch grommets?
Racing? I'm not a tourer in my toy cars. Just don't enjoy it. This car's mileage is pretty much all from track activities. Don't know that I'd make different choices if I could somehow make them again, and I do really enjoy my "production-based" "road-car" toy cars, but my thinking today is that I just would've bought a used Formula Ford 1600/2000 (some of the Van Dieman models are looking quite attractive) or C/DSR/S2000 and called it a day. But I kinda had to work my way into thinking this way about my car interest.
Edited by m2500tvr on Friday 17th September 03:00
m2500tvr said:
Doing some Google searches I did find a little bit from Adrian on the rear upright/control arm bushing thing. I pinged him on some details. It looks like he destroys the studs in the process in order to save the uprights. Can do, but where to get replacement studs? I could make one, or dig through hardware catalogs, but if someone's got one...
416-752-7226 TVR North America, use the dark stairway on the left where it smells like moonshine, ask for Doug or John.m2500tvr said:
I couldn't find your post about spherical bearing drop-link conversion.
m2500tvr said:
Simple "pillow block" aluminum mounts I can easily make, but if someone's got 'em that might be easier.
http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID...
m2500tvr said:
Racing? I'm not a tourer in my toy cars. Just don't enjoy it. This car's mileage is pretty much all from track activities. Don't know that I'd make different choices if I could somehow make them again, and I do really enjoy my "production-based" "road-car" toy cars, but my thinking today is that I just would've bought a used Formula Ford 1600/2000 (some of the Van Dieman models are looking quite attractive) or C/DSR/S2000 and called it a day. But I kinda had to work my way into thinking this way about my car interest.
Steve,
Check your PM. Steve,
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