this looks good
Discussion
79 Taimar Red almost complete restoration project on ebay 5 days to go - being sold by biggertim
if I wasn't in the process of rebuilding an S I would look at this
1979 TVR Taimar
rare car in need of completion
The story so far
I bought the car as a project for my retirement about 5 years ago
my intention was to build a car that looked good but had better handling brakes and performance than the original and was suitable for sprints or hill climbs
I used to compete in a Taimar in the eighties
unfortunately I have bought a business 4 years ago and the TVR is left alone I have had to admit to myself that this project will not be possible for me so I hope someone can take advantage of the hard work done and money spent
Grab a bargain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the car was running and working on purchase but in need of a complete rebuild.
I drove the car into my garage and stripped it down to the bare chassis
the chassis was derusted, all the rot was cut out and new sections professionally welded in.
The chassis was then treated to 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of smoothrite (in different colours to ensure coverage)
the suspension wishbones were similarly treated and refitted with uprated new bushes and stainless bolts, nuts etc all round
the diff hanger was re fitted with new bushes, stainless bolts etc
the rear suspension ally mountings were degreased crack checked and refitted with new stainless bolts including the long ones ( b%$"gers to fit)
new trunnions, ball joints, steering components etc all fitted
LSD Differential (Jag Powerlok) sent off and rebuilt at great expense. It was reset to the weight of the car _ very important as the original Jag was 2 1/2 tons
recon steering rack purchased but not fitted
new uprated springs and high performance multi adjustable Shock absorbers fitted
drive shaft U/Js replaced
free flow exhaust manifolds purchased and painted with high temp. paint
weber 40dfi carb and freeflow inlet manifold purchased
original 3l v6 essex stripped for spares
high performance big valve engine purchased currently heads and sump off for inspection
has hp hc oil pump biggest valves possible, competition cam rebored new pistons etc
bodywork is solid with no damage but needs full respray
all glass with it ( rear screen is £600 plus now)
bonnet stay rotten but new one ready to fit (expensive and difficult to find)
complete interior needs replacing but original retained as template
all parts removed have been replaced or retained for replacement
will need trailer and van to remove
i have a suitable vehicle and will transport at a cost!
viewing on request
any questions phone 07830 222 980
if I wasn't in the process of rebuilding an S I would look at this
1979 TVR Taimar
rare car in need of completion
The story so far
I bought the car as a project for my retirement about 5 years ago
my intention was to build a car that looked good but had better handling brakes and performance than the original and was suitable for sprints or hill climbs
I used to compete in a Taimar in the eighties
unfortunately I have bought a business 4 years ago and the TVR is left alone I have had to admit to myself that this project will not be possible for me so I hope someone can take advantage of the hard work done and money spent
Grab a bargain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the car was running and working on purchase but in need of a complete rebuild.
I drove the car into my garage and stripped it down to the bare chassis
the chassis was derusted, all the rot was cut out and new sections professionally welded in.
The chassis was then treated to 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of smoothrite (in different colours to ensure coverage)
the suspension wishbones were similarly treated and refitted with uprated new bushes and stainless bolts, nuts etc all round
the diff hanger was re fitted with new bushes, stainless bolts etc
the rear suspension ally mountings were degreased crack checked and refitted with new stainless bolts including the long ones ( b%$"gers to fit)
new trunnions, ball joints, steering components etc all fitted
LSD Differential (Jag Powerlok) sent off and rebuilt at great expense. It was reset to the weight of the car _ very important as the original Jag was 2 1/2 tons
recon steering rack purchased but not fitted
new uprated springs and high performance multi adjustable Shock absorbers fitted
drive shaft U/Js replaced
free flow exhaust manifolds purchased and painted with high temp. paint
weber 40dfi carb and freeflow inlet manifold purchased
original 3l v6 essex stripped for spares
high performance big valve engine purchased currently heads and sump off for inspection
has hp hc oil pump biggest valves possible, competition cam rebored new pistons etc
bodywork is solid with no damage but needs full respray
all glass with it ( rear screen is £600 plus now)
bonnet stay rotten but new one ready to fit (expensive and difficult to find)
complete interior needs replacing but original retained as template
all parts removed have been replaced or retained for replacement
will need trailer and van to remove
i have a suitable vehicle and will transport at a cost!
viewing on request
any questions phone 07830 222 980
David, you've made me wonder now. I have just replaced the standard steel bolts with stainless for the mounting the body to the chassis and mounting seat belts. I assumed the shear factor would not be an issue as the fibreglass would give long before the bolts. What do you think?
Moto
Moto
I certainly wouldn't use them in any safety critical application, eg seat belts, suspension. I'm not so sure about the body, but the one time though that you are going to put it under load is that 'big accident'.
Personally I'd just replace them all with steel and then that's one less thing to worry about. It's only a handful of bolts now, and if they were put on recently then at least they will come apart easily!
Note this is only my personal opinion, others may differ.
davidy
Personally I'd just replace them all with steel and then that's one less thing to worry about. It's only a handful of bolts now, and if they were put on recently then at least they will come apart easily!
Note this is only my personal opinion, others may differ.
davidy
magpies said:
79 Taimar Red almost complete restoration project on ebay 5 days to go - being sold by biggertim
Searched under "Taimar" can't find it, got the item number or better still a link ?Re the stainless bolts, wouldn't use for suspension or seat belts but fine for body mounts (imho), you'll rip it through the fibreglass before you'll shear the bolt.
DavidY said:
Whoever buys it will have to rebuild all the suspension and put in steel bolts rather than stainless ones, which will shear under load.
Just a warning!
What grade of steel bolts would you suggest to replace the stainless? If the st/st bolts were 316 or 316L or even 304 I would say they would be fine.Just a warning!
If you want seat belt bolts, any vauxhall in your local scrapyard will be full of them (1/2" UNF) with a nice flat/short head.
Rule of thumb.
On the head of the bolts A2 / A4 is the grade of stainless 304 / 316
There should also be another number 60, 70, 80 etc. this is the strength designation. the higher the number the higher the strength.
80 is the strongest generally avialable in the UK (certainly for the bolt sizes we might be using) in both A2 and A4 grades.
Its not advisable to use S/S where shock loads might be, ie the suspension bushes.
The 80 grade is very roughly equvivelent to 8.8 grade carbon steel bolts so anywhere that has bolts above 8.8 dont use S/S.
Its rule of thunb because I tried to read my 'Design manual for structural stainless steel' fasteners section, but fell asleep after the first paragraph, so phoned someone who knew, they then proceeded to bore the tits off me.
On the head of the bolts A2 / A4 is the grade of stainless 304 / 316
There should also be another number 60, 70, 80 etc. this is the strength designation. the higher the number the higher the strength.
80 is the strongest generally avialable in the UK (certainly for the bolt sizes we might be using) in both A2 and A4 grades.
Its not advisable to use S/S where shock loads might be, ie the suspension bushes.
The 80 grade is very roughly equvivelent to 8.8 grade carbon steel bolts so anywhere that has bolts above 8.8 dont use S/S.
Its rule of thunb because I tried to read my 'Design manual for structural stainless steel' fasteners section, but fell asleep after the first paragraph, so phoned someone who knew, they then proceeded to bore the tits off me.
I bet if you work out the loading on any of the 22 1/2" bolts in the suspension ( Good luck with that one), it would be within the shear yield point of the common grade st/st bolts, especially if the threads are not in the shear plane? I would think the original HT carbon steel bolts were way over engineered? Would you really class it as a true shock loading though?
Seat belt bolts from the 90's Vauxhalls are long enough!
Seat belt bolts from the 90's Vauxhalls are long enough!
eric0 said:
I bet if you work out the loading on any of the 22 1/2" bolts in the suspension ( Good luck with that one), it would be within the shear yield point of the common grade st/st bolts, especially if the threads are not in the shear plane? I would think the original HT carbon steel bolts were way over engineered? Would you really class it as a true shock loading though?
My thoughts entirely. All bolts are graded, tech info known. I'd be surprised if the originals were anything other than stock off the shelf grades replaceable in s/s without issue. I further doubt there'd be a need for anything but stock off the shelf grades when TVR were putting these cars together new. Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff