Anyone bring an O2 reader to rockingham
Anyone bring an O2 reader to rockingham
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TVRleigh_BBWR

Original Poster:

6,553 posts

242 months

Monday 27th April 2009
quotequote all
I have a LC1 in my Racer (some people say they are crap other say they are fine) it all seems to work ok, and is consistant, but not 100% sure its calibrated correctly. it says the car is running a little rich, but plugs look fine, plus if I try take it to 14.7 then the cars starts to die.

See a graph of a lap RPM and LC1 reading and ECU expected correct AFM.


Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Tuesday 28th April 20:53

450Nick

4,027 posts

241 months

Monday 27th April 2009
quotequote all
Pull it out and turn the ignition on with it in free air. It should read 21% oxygen content if its calibrated right. If this is fine, try taking it to your local garage and have them stick an MOT gas analyser up the tailpipe. It should be able to tell you lambda readings that you can compare to.

TVRleigh_BBWR

Original Poster:

6,553 posts

242 months

Monday 27th April 2009
quotequote all
450Nick said:
Pull it out and turn the ignition on with it in free air. It should read 21% oxygen content if its calibrated right. If this is fine,
ok will do.

450Nick said:
try taking it to your local garage and have them stick an MOT gas analyser up the tailpipe. It should be able to tell you lambda readings that you can compare to.
Not as easy with a non road race car.

on a sub note the 1st time I touch the throttle, from a fresh start, it goes very week and some times stalls, but after this it's fine. from the logger it seem to be getting a massive jump in timing advance.

450Nick

4,027 posts

241 months

Monday 27th April 2009
quotequote all
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
450Nick said:
Pull it out and turn the ignition on with it in free air. It should read 21% oxygen content if its calibrated right. If this is fine,
ok will do.

450Nick said:
try taking it to your local garage and have them stick an MOT gas analyser up the tailpipe. It should be able to tell you lambda readings that you can compare to.
Not as easy with a non road race car.

on a sub note the 1st time I touch the throttle, from a fresh start, it goes very week and some times stalls, but after this it's fine. from the logger it seem to be getting a massive jump in timing advance.
Not easy, but if its on a trailer and you're desperate!

The weak thing could be the idle stabilisation set too high for your throttle pot numbers... If its trying to cling on to the idle then as you just touch the throttle it will still think its idling, but more air has entered the system so it will cut back ignition and try to bring it back down quite quickly. As the engine picks up though, it will soon clear the idle state and it will stop trying. So maybe try and re-calibrate your throttle pot but have the setup auto set the idle event and overrun fuel cut 3-4 points higher. Might help..!

TVRleigh_BBWR

Original Poster:

6,553 posts

242 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
Did think its the it may be the idle stabilization thingie
I have re-calibrated my TPS a few times so know its right.

May try and adjust the range the idle control. see if that help.

450Nick

4,027 posts

241 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
Hmm I did used to have that problem... I just can't for the life of me think what I did to solve it. At a guess, if its only doing it when the engine's just been started then it could be one of the trims, so perhaps the coolant temp trim isn't adding enough fuel while the engines just been started. Try going to the live adjustments page and adding 2/3 points of injector trim as soon as its started and see if it still does it so badly... Do you have your adaptive mapping set close to idle? That can screw it up sometimes...

TVRleigh_BBWR

Original Poster:

6,553 posts

242 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
450Nick said:
Hmm I did used to have that problem... I just can't for the life of me think what I did to solve it. At a guess, if its only doing it when the engine's just been started then it could be one of the trims, so perhaps the coolant temp trim isn't adding enough fuel while the engines just been started. Try going to the live adjustments page and adding 2/3 points of injector trim as soon as its started and see if it still does it so badly... Do you have your adaptive mapping set close to idle? That can screw it up sometimes...
Well I'm still using the basics of your old map.
I could not seem to get the fuel right on the new one, so manually copied your new ignition timing to the old map, and did some minor adjustment to the fuel, and put in my events. and turned the EAV as I don't have one.

I have a 3 position key switch, and 1st position I don't have any adaptive mapping.

What I will try and do, is see what's different from your old and new maps.

450Nick

4,027 posts

241 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
Well I'll have my laptop with me at Rock, if you still have the problem let me know and I'll have a look at it. I think its just a case of getting the low level fuel/ign right with as little trim interference as possible. Not having a IACV won't help though, it really makes cold start/warm up idle much easier!

TVRleigh_BBWR

Original Poster:

6,553 posts

242 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
Well it's not going to do much idling, so did not see the point of extra complexities of the IVAC. (says the guy with a 1000 Sensors wink)

450Nick

4,027 posts

241 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
This is true... In which case its maybe best to just leave it alone! Unless of course it does it as you're trying to do a race start!

TVRleigh_BBWR

Original Poster:

6,553 posts

242 months

Tuesday 28th April 2009
quotequote all
450Nick said:
This is true... In which case its maybe best to just leave it alone! Unless of course it does it as you're trying to do a race start!
Was talking about the IVAC, would like to sort the off idle problem