1990 C124 300CE - £175 Shed Restoration
Discussion
As you've already alluded to yourself, the C124 looks bad on a superficial level but in reality it's probably not.
Along with r129sl's advice I'd firstly add one comment: "Don't rush things. Rome wasn't built in a day."
Before getting too worried about the superficial (i.e. what you can see on the surface) body and paintwork and before getting too involved in anything else get underneath the car and assess it for an structural rust. Look particularly around the points on the body where the rear subframe attaches. Take the bumpers and sill covers off. None of that is particularly difficult and you'll then have a better idea whether you want to start ploughing time and money into the car.
You've obviously had it running in one of the pics and it was showing good oil pressure. So, if you decide to go ahead with the project after inspecting the above areas, before running it again do all the simple engine-service type things (fluids, filters, plugs etc). You'll probably want to have a critical look at the brakes if it has been standing so long...discs, pads, function of the calipers, brake lines etc
Yes, that interior looks terrible at the moment but if you take your time and clean it thoroughly over the course of a few sessions I bet it will be transformed. I just wouldn't try to do it all in one go. If you do, you'll get bored and won't do it properly. That's what happens with me anyway.
Similarly under the bonnet. Split it up into manageable size chunks.
Looking at the photos, it looks like ultimately you're looking at at least a complete or near complete respray? Probably with some bodywork...wings etc? So leave that until last.
Many mechanical parts on the W124 are cheap and plentiful. Make "Mercedes W124" one of your favourite Ebay searches. You'd be surprised, given enough time, what you can pick up.
I think the main thing is just "time".
Good luck!
Along with r129sl's advice I'd firstly add one comment: "Don't rush things. Rome wasn't built in a day."
Before getting too worried about the superficial (i.e. what you can see on the surface) body and paintwork and before getting too involved in anything else get underneath the car and assess it for an structural rust. Look particularly around the points on the body where the rear subframe attaches. Take the bumpers and sill covers off. None of that is particularly difficult and you'll then have a better idea whether you want to start ploughing time and money into the car.
You've obviously had it running in one of the pics and it was showing good oil pressure. So, if you decide to go ahead with the project after inspecting the above areas, before running it again do all the simple engine-service type things (fluids, filters, plugs etc). You'll probably want to have a critical look at the brakes if it has been standing so long...discs, pads, function of the calipers, brake lines etc
Yes, that interior looks terrible at the moment but if you take your time and clean it thoroughly over the course of a few sessions I bet it will be transformed. I just wouldn't try to do it all in one go. If you do, you'll get bored and won't do it properly. That's what happens with me anyway.
Similarly under the bonnet. Split it up into manageable size chunks.Looking at the photos, it looks like ultimately you're looking at at least a complete or near complete respray? Probably with some bodywork...wings etc? So leave that until last.
Many mechanical parts on the W124 are cheap and plentiful. Make "Mercedes W124" one of your favourite Ebay searches. You'd be surprised, given enough time, what you can pick up.
I think the main thing is just "time".
Good luck!
Are those chrome wheel arch trims factory? If not, you can probably expect to find it pretty crusty under there.
I too would start by getting the car up nice and high on stands or a lift, going under there with a decent torch and a long screwdriver, and having a proper poke around for rust.
You don't know yet whether you have a solid starting point for a restoration or a parts donor. Hopefully it's the former, but investing emotionally and financially in something which turns out to be the latter is a costly error.
As I'm sure you know, the cheapest way to a truly tidy old car is to just buy at great expense an exceptionally well preserved or restored car, just look at Derin100's prices- he makes little to no profit.
I too would start by getting the car up nice and high on stands or a lift, going under there with a decent torch and a long screwdriver, and having a proper poke around for rust.
You don't know yet whether you have a solid starting point for a restoration or a parts donor. Hopefully it's the former, but investing emotionally and financially in something which turns out to be the latter is a costly error.
As I'm sure you know, the cheapest way to a truly tidy old car is to just buy at great expense an exceptionally well preserved or restored car, just look at Derin100's prices- he makes little to no profit.
Yes, the above is a very good idea. Take the failure a "given" but it will give you a list upon which you can the start gathering parts.
I don't know how handy you are on the spanners yourself? But if there are aspects you can't or don't want to do yourself you can then take all the parts that you've gathered to your mechanic in one go and have it all done at the same time. That's better than going back and forth in dribs and drabs.
Also, as said above, I wouldn't approach this as a money making exercise. It's very unlikely that it will be. If you can make a few quid it'll most probably be consumed by your next project anyway. Coming out having broken even is good and should be more possible these days than it was post-2008/9 as prices have picked up a bit for these sorts of cars lately. Be prepared for a loss as well unless you're prepared, come the time to sell, to just sit on the car and a price until that one person comes along who wants such a car, realises what's involved and doesn't want to go through all the hassle of doing it themselves.
There are plenty of £1-2K CEs available and it's easy to be seduced into believing that's what a C124 should cost but fundamentally they're probably no better and will need just as much spending on them as your £175 car. It's very easy to see how, for example, just the costs of some body/paintwork, new tyres and a wheel furb will already exceed the purchase price of one of those cars and most of them will need that anyway?
I don't know how handy you are on the spanners yourself? But if there are aspects you can't or don't want to do yourself you can then take all the parts that you've gathered to your mechanic in one go and have it all done at the same time. That's better than going back and forth in dribs and drabs.
Also, as said above, I wouldn't approach this as a money making exercise. It's very unlikely that it will be. If you can make a few quid it'll most probably be consumed by your next project anyway
. Coming out having broken even is good and should be more possible these days than it was post-2008/9 as prices have picked up a bit for these sorts of cars lately. Be prepared for a loss as well unless you're prepared, come the time to sell, to just sit on the car and a price until that one person comes along who wants such a car, realises what's involved and doesn't want to go through all the hassle of doing it themselves.There are plenty of £1-2K CEs available and it's easy to be seduced into believing that's what a C124 should cost but fundamentally they're probably no better and will need just as much spending on them as your £175 car. It's very easy to see how, for example, just the costs of some body/paintwork, new tyres and a wheel furb will already exceed the purchase price of one of those cars and most of them will need that anyway?
TooManySheds said:
Cheers R129 & Derin & Dr G for the replies, I am not going to rush things, but just wonder out of interest how long your restorations take ? Reading Derins Red Coupe story on his website years ago when I nearly bought it, it seemed like hundreds of hours of work.
Derin and R129, As you both have done a lot of work on the W124s, can you recommend a good guide/book/website on what to look out for, or worthwhile preventative maintenance.
I plan for it to be a long job (5 years I reckon, working with my budget and my health).
At the moment my plan for when I get it back to mine is
Strip the Interior out, clean and remove all mold.
Check carpets for any damp.
Put Interior back and fix any cheap broken bits, but not repair any Leather yet until I can afford a proper job.
Do a full Fluids change, then have taken to the garage who has done some work on my Jag and ask him to do the following
New Discs and Pads all round, and check all brake components are fine.
Report on Condition of bodywork, create a list of things that need urgent attention, and things that can wait until next year.
Have the suspension checked over
Anything else I should add to get me started ? also any nice little simple fixes / tricks I can do at home that are worth doing ?
Sounds like a good plan.Derin and R129, As you both have done a lot of work on the W124s, can you recommend a good guide/book/website on what to look out for, or worthwhile preventative maintenance.
I plan for it to be a long job (5 years I reckon, working with my budget and my health).
At the moment my plan for when I get it back to mine is
Strip the Interior out, clean and remove all mold.
Check carpets for any damp.
Put Interior back and fix any cheap broken bits, but not repair any Leather yet until I can afford a proper job.
Do a full Fluids change, then have taken to the garage who has done some work on my Jag and ask him to do the following
New Discs and Pads all round, and check all brake components are fine.
Report on Condition of bodywork, create a list of things that need urgent attention, and things that can wait until next year.
Have the suspension checked over
Anything else I should add to get me started ? also any nice little simple fixes / tricks I can do at home that are worth doing ?
Edited by TooManySheds on Saturday 26th March 10:24
There's online info available on many of the Mercedes internet forum. I never really encountered a problem where I couldn't find an answer online somewhere. Also, remember that in many respects a W124 is just a big son of W201 so many things/problems are the same and the 190-Forum is a really good source of knowledge and help.
Yeah...that red 230CE was a lovely car to drive. I should never have sold it! It's doubly galling as I still see that car occasionally driving around here.
That car didn't take too long and I did it more as a rolling project whilst I used it as a daily driver. The white 300CE however was a much more lengthy and expensive project that for various reason took nearly two years to complete and then about another year and a half of advertising to sell it! In fact, in the end I didn't even "sell" it; rather I exchanged it for another car. My main delays were actually because of unscrupulous or unreliable Mercedes "specialist" mechanics located at some distance so it was difficult for me to keep going to them to see what was happening before I found someone more reliable locally.I think the big thing you have on your side with these cars is their fundamental superb build quality and the way everything was designed. It's almost as if everything was designed with the mind-set from the outset that it should be relatively easily dismantle-able and fixable.
TooManySheds said:
I am not great at the spanners, but really want to learn. Would prefer to have a go, and if I cock it up then get someone in to fix my mess, but at least I will have learnt where I went wrong.
The aim really is to have 2 great cars, in rust free and mechanically great condition in 5 years, that I can then enjoy for years. Its not about flipping for a profit.
If you see a sudden traffic spike to your BMW site, thats me downloading as many Hi Res photos as I can find showing all the work you have done on the various Mercs that I can print out to look at to work out how things go back together :-)
Oh yes...I'm an expert on that! The aim really is to have 2 great cars, in rust free and mechanically great condition in 5 years, that I can then enjoy for years. Its not about flipping for a profit.
If you see a sudden traffic spike to your BMW site, thats me downloading as many Hi Res photos as I can find showing all the work you have done on the various Mercs that I can print out to look at to work out how things go back together :-)
Yes, no problem...download as many of the pics as you wish.
One CE specific tip...if your windows close properly now...DON'T muck about with any attempts to adjust them! Leave them alone. One of the afore mentioned "specialist" mechanics did this on my white one. He couldn't get it right; smashed one of the windows in the process (either through incompetence or rage) and then said I'd have to "live with" the ensuing poor fit/seal. It was one of the trickier things I found to figure out and do myself. It took me half a week of my holiday!
Congratulations! I'd echo the advice above. Make sure the car is one you really want when done as you will sink a significant amount of time and resource into getting it right. My view is that unless done all of these need new arches and paint so that's not too important.
The interior of my w124 was really grubby when I got it. I had it steam cleaned and the difference was fantastic. They really are very well made so respond well to cleaning.
In addition to the usual oil change and filters I would get the gearbox oil changed. I do this every second service on mine with the aim of improving the longevity of the gearbox (ie delaying when I need to refurb it!).
They all need a suspension refresh due to age. r129sl gave us a fantastic guide that's located on the barge thread here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
It really is the definitive w124 suspension guide so save it and work through it as a list! Derin is also incredibly helpful as he's always been-there-done that (as above).
Lastly I really like the colour and black leather on that one; it's not too rusty underneath it will be a desirable car when you are finished. I am of the view that my 12v 300e (same engine as yours) drives better than my SL and I keep coming back to it with relief after driving other far more modern cars.
Good luck!
The interior of my w124 was really grubby when I got it. I had it steam cleaned and the difference was fantastic. They really are very well made so respond well to cleaning.
In addition to the usual oil change and filters I would get the gearbox oil changed. I do this every second service on mine with the aim of improving the longevity of the gearbox (ie delaying when I need to refurb it!).
They all need a suspension refresh due to age. r129sl gave us a fantastic guide that's located on the barge thread here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
It really is the definitive w124 suspension guide so save it and work through it as a list! Derin is also incredibly helpful as he's always been-there-done that (as above).
Lastly I really like the colour and black leather on that one; it's not too rusty underneath it will be a desirable car when you are finished. I am of the view that my 12v 300e (same engine as yours) drives better than my SL and I keep coming back to it with relief after driving other far more modern cars.
Good luck!
Edited by 0a on Saturday 26th March 12:11
This is just for my reference so I have it all on one thread. I hope R129 doesnt mind me just copying and pasting.
Aerial.
If yours is an original Hirschmann (look at the end of the mast for a stylised 'h'), then this is your man: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/car-masts-uk-shop and in all probability this is your mast: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Merc-W123-W124-S... and if you need the whole kit and caboodle (which is unlikely), then this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Genuine-Hirschm...
Buy lots of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Electric-Aerial... (I buy 3doz at a time).
Rear suspension links
Lemförder do a kit, part number 33500 01. It includes 4 links for each side plus the mounting hardware.
£180 here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-SUSPENSION-CONTROL-...
Rear subframe bushes
Front pair, Lemförder 10984 01, £12 for the pair here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-C-CLASS-W2...
Rear pair, Lemförder 10982 01, £17.50 for the pair here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-E-CLASS-W1...
Front suspension, lower control arm
Lemförder 10973 02 and 10974 02
£149 each here: http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1242760
But see these analogous parts here: http://www.findpart.org/part/lem-1097302
Febi Bilstein 05023 here for £100 (but the ad has lapsed): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-Saloon-W12...
Front suspension, other
Strut top mounts, Lemförder 10969 02, £32 each here Lemförder 10969 02; Febi Bilstein 08669, £18 each here http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/1870782-febi-bil... I've used the Febis in the past and they were great.
Anti-roll bar bushes, just get from the dealer.
Steering links
L track rod Lemförder 10725 02 £29 here http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1242364
R track rod
Centre link Lemförder 10766 01 £32 here http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/side-rod/lemforder... but shop round
Idler arm bush
Shock
I've run out of time and will return to this. But here is the ZF catalogue. http://webcat.zf.com/index.asp?SPR=4 With this, www.findpart.org and google, you can't go wrong.
Edit: which bit of exhaust is knackered? There are some NOS Bosal items on Ebay at the moment for a song. And I got Eberspacher parts from Euro Car Parts for seriously cheap prices.
Further edit:
New old stock
These sites are good for NOS (new old stock) genuine MB parts but they are not very well organised:
www.starpartz.co.uk
http://cart.euromercmercedesparts.co.uk
High quality, discounted after market
Here you will find good aftermarket parts for your particular car (i.e. a 300E, 124.030 with 188bhp). But be careful that you pick parts from respectable manufacturers and then, in the terms and conditions, make sure you tick the box which does not allow them to substitute equivalent parts from other manufacturers when fulfilling your order. http://www.rexbo.eu/mercedes/saloon-w124-84/300-e-...
For example, here is a Febi Bilstein rear link kit http://www.rexbo.eu/febi/rod-strut-wheel-suspensio...
Here is a similar outfit, again, already set for your car: http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-p...
An example, the Lemförder lower control arm: http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/lemforder-1242760....
And another: http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/mercedes-benz-salo...
This place specialises in cheap aftermarket parts for the German taxi market: http://www.te-taxiteile.com/Mercedes-Teile/W124-Bj...
Sensible worklist — I have marked the big wins with a star
Front
Lower control arms (but only if necessary)
Shocks*
Shock top mounts
Springs (but only if necessary)
Anti-roll bar bushes and brackets
Steering
Idler arm bush*
Centre link
Track rods
Steering damper
Rear end
Shocks
Springs (if necessary)
Front pair subframe bushes*
Rear pair subframe bushes (only if necessary)
Link kit
Control arm bushes (only if necessary)
Diff mount bushes (if you're having the subframe lowered, you might as well)
Anti roll bar bushes (these can get dry and then they can eventually tear their mounting points off the floor of the car)
If you did all of this (I seem to recall you have done the shocks), you will have a car that drives as good as new and is better than 99% of the 124s out there. Hell, it will be better than 99% of all but the newest cars out there. It is a ridiculous amount of money to spend on an old and essentially worthless car but it wouldn't buy you much by way of alternative. Of course, it all depends on how much money is worth to you. Just to set my parameters, I also figure I can stand £500 without too much trouble, but £1,000 I have to think about and any more than that is going to hurt.
A good mechanic could do this work in a day. Most of it you could do yourself on the drive with minimal specialist tools (just watch those springs) so long as you live close to a suspension alignment centre! It's just nuts and bolts and brute force.
Less sensible—maybe next time
Engine and transmission mounts
Propshaft centre bearing
Propshaft dampers
I have never had any problems with—and use without hesitation—parts from ATE Braking, Behr-Hella, Bilstein, Febi Bilstein, Lemförder, Sachs/Boge, ZF Group. These people make them for Merc anyway. Their catalogues are very helpful:
http://www.ate-brakes.com/www/ate_de_en/themes/20_...
http://www.behrhellaservice.com/behrhellaservice-c...
http://www.bilstein.de/en-uk/products/search-servi...
http://www.febi-parts.com/vehicle.php?r_manufactur...
http://webcat.zf.com/index.asp?SPR=4
Edit
Febi lower control arms, £90. Given that these include a ball joint and the mounting bushes and given that the Merc part is £300, these are a bargain. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-05023-MERCEDES-200T...
Febi rear suspension link kit, £141. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-17300-MERCEDES-300E...
I have bought from this seller and he was ok.
Now, I can't get obsessed with finding your parts but you're probably figuring out how it works. Basically you use catalogues to find part numbers then google and Ebay to find vendors.
Copied from http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Aerial.
If yours is an original Hirschmann (look at the end of the mast for a stylised 'h'), then this is your man: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/car-masts-uk-shop and in all probability this is your mast: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Merc-W123-W124-S... and if you need the whole kit and caboodle (which is unlikely), then this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Genuine-Hirschm...
Buy lots of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Electric-Aerial... (I buy 3doz at a time).
Rear suspension links
Lemförder do a kit, part number 33500 01. It includes 4 links for each side plus the mounting hardware.
£180 here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-SUSPENSION-CONTROL-...
Rear subframe bushes
Front pair, Lemförder 10984 01, £12 for the pair here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-C-CLASS-W2...
Rear pair, Lemförder 10982 01, £17.50 for the pair here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-E-CLASS-W1...
Front suspension, lower control arm
Lemförder 10973 02 and 10974 02
£149 each here: http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1242760
But see these analogous parts here: http://www.findpart.org/part/lem-1097302
Febi Bilstein 05023 here for £100 (but the ad has lapsed): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-Saloon-W12...
Front suspension, other
Strut top mounts, Lemförder 10969 02, £32 each here Lemförder 10969 02; Febi Bilstein 08669, £18 each here http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/1870782-febi-bil... I've used the Febis in the past and they were great.
Anti-roll bar bushes, just get from the dealer.
Steering links
L track rod Lemförder 10725 02 £29 here http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1242364
R track rod
Centre link Lemförder 10766 01 £32 here http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/side-rod/lemforder... but shop round
Idler arm bush
Shock
I've run out of time and will return to this. But here is the ZF catalogue. http://webcat.zf.com/index.asp?SPR=4 With this, www.findpart.org and google, you can't go wrong.
Edit: which bit of exhaust is knackered? There are some NOS Bosal items on Ebay at the moment for a song. And I got Eberspacher parts from Euro Car Parts for seriously cheap prices.
Further edit:
New old stock
These sites are good for NOS (new old stock) genuine MB parts but they are not very well organised:
www.starpartz.co.uk
http://cart.euromercmercedesparts.co.uk
High quality, discounted after market
Here you will find good aftermarket parts for your particular car (i.e. a 300E, 124.030 with 188bhp). But be careful that you pick parts from respectable manufacturers and then, in the terms and conditions, make sure you tick the box which does not allow them to substitute equivalent parts from other manufacturers when fulfilling your order. http://www.rexbo.eu/mercedes/saloon-w124-84/300-e-...
For example, here is a Febi Bilstein rear link kit http://www.rexbo.eu/febi/rod-strut-wheel-suspensio...
Here is a similar outfit, again, already set for your car: http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-p...
An example, the Lemförder lower control arm: http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/lemforder-1242760....
And another: http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/mercedes-benz-salo...
This place specialises in cheap aftermarket parts for the German taxi market: http://www.te-taxiteile.com/Mercedes-Teile/W124-Bj...
Sensible worklist — I have marked the big wins with a star
Front
Lower control arms (but only if necessary)
Shocks*
Shock top mounts
Springs (but only if necessary)
Anti-roll bar bushes and brackets
Steering
Idler arm bush*
Centre link
Track rods
Steering damper
Rear end
Shocks
Springs (if necessary)
Front pair subframe bushes*
Rear pair subframe bushes (only if necessary)
Link kit
Control arm bushes (only if necessary)
Diff mount bushes (if you're having the subframe lowered, you might as well)
Anti roll bar bushes (these can get dry and then they can eventually tear their mounting points off the floor of the car)
If you did all of this (I seem to recall you have done the shocks), you will have a car that drives as good as new and is better than 99% of the 124s out there. Hell, it will be better than 99% of all but the newest cars out there. It is a ridiculous amount of money to spend on an old and essentially worthless car but it wouldn't buy you much by way of alternative. Of course, it all depends on how much money is worth to you. Just to set my parameters, I also figure I can stand £500 without too much trouble, but £1,000 I have to think about and any more than that is going to hurt.
A good mechanic could do this work in a day. Most of it you could do yourself on the drive with minimal specialist tools (just watch those springs) so long as you live close to a suspension alignment centre! It's just nuts and bolts and brute force.
Less sensible—maybe next time
Engine and transmission mounts
Propshaft centre bearing
Propshaft dampers
I have never had any problems with—and use without hesitation—parts from ATE Braking, Behr-Hella, Bilstein, Febi Bilstein, Lemförder, Sachs/Boge, ZF Group. These people make them for Merc anyway. Their catalogues are very helpful:
http://www.ate-brakes.com/www/ate_de_en/themes/20_...
http://www.behrhellaservice.com/behrhellaservice-c...
http://www.bilstein.de/en-uk/products/search-servi...
http://www.febi-parts.com/vehicle.php?r_manufactur...
http://webcat.zf.com/index.asp?SPR=4
Edit
Febi lower control arms, £90. Given that these include a ball joint and the mounting bushes and given that the Merc part is £300, these are a bargain. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-05023-MERCEDES-200T...
Febi rear suspension link kit, £141. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-17300-MERCEDES-300E...
I have bought from this seller and he was ok.
Now, I can't get obsessed with finding your parts but you're probably figuring out how it works. Basically you use catalogues to find part numbers then google and Ebay to find vendors.
Copied from http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
0a said:
Congratulations! I'd echo the advice above. Make sure the car is one you really want when done as you will sink a significant amount of time and resource into getting it right. My view is that unless done all of these need new arches and paint so that's not too important.
The interior of my w124 was really grubby when I got it. I had it steam cleaned and the difference was fantastic. They really are very well made so respond well to cleaning.
In addition to the usual oil change and filters I would get the gearbox oil changed. I do this every second service on mine with the aim of improving the longevity of the gearbox (ie delaying when I need to refurb it!).
They all need a suspension refresh due to age. r129sl gave us a fantastic guide that's located on the barge thread here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
It really is the definitive w124 suspension guide so save it and work through it as a list! Derin is also incredibly helpful as he's always been-there-done that (as above).
Lastly I really like the colour and black leather on that one; it's not too rusty underneath it will be a desirable car when you are finished. I am of the view that my 12v 300e (same engine as yours) drives better than my SL and I keep coming back to it with relief after driving other far more modern cars.
Good luck!
Cheers Oa, its actually not the spec I wanted at all really, but for the price I couldnt resist. Plus at some point its going to have a full respray, so might have it red after all, but then that means also changing the interior, in which case may as well upgrade to heated orthapedic etc etc LOL. The interior of my w124 was really grubby when I got it. I had it steam cleaned and the difference was fantastic. They really are very well made so respond well to cleaning.
In addition to the usual oil change and filters I would get the gearbox oil changed. I do this every second service on mine with the aim of improving the longevity of the gearbox (ie delaying when I need to refurb it!).
They all need a suspension refresh due to age. r129sl gave us a fantastic guide that's located on the barge thread here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
It really is the definitive w124 suspension guide so save it and work through it as a list! Derin is also incredibly helpful as he's always been-there-done that (as above).
Lastly I really like the colour and black leather on that one; it's not too rusty underneath it will be a desirable car when you are finished. I am of the view that my 12v 300e (same engine as yours) drives better than my SL and I keep coming back to it with relief after driving other far more modern cars.
Good luck!
Edited by 0a on Saturday 26th March 12:11
I had been looking for that amazing R129 Suspension post, but had been looking at his posting history thinking it was a stand alone post, forgetting it was swallowed up by the barge thread. Have copied it now to my thread so I can find it quickly in future.
If you dont mind me asking, and as you have the same engine/gearbox, how much do you pay for a full fluids & filters change ? Do you do any of it yourself or use a mechanic ?
Was thinking of paying someone for the first time, so they can deal with seized bolts or past bodges, but to take careful notes and then can do all the changes myself in future.
Have I missed anything from this list
Fuel Filter
Air Fileter
Oil change and Filter (and maybe new sump plug ? )
Transmission change (and do I need to check condition of plug ? )
Coolant and check hose condition
The oil is still golden, and the tickover is very smooth. It was serviced in 2012 (when it came off road) then in March 2015 and Moted, but then dumped back in the garden.
Have arranged collection for Wed, only £40 to be trailered back, so no messing around bringing it off Sorn for just a few days. Hopefully April and May are warmer and I can get all the basics done and then stick it in for the MOT.
Just been reading the advisory from the 2015 one (less than 100 miles since then)
Windscreen Damage less than 10mm within zone A. (Both front and rear screens have delamination, so they both on the long term list of replacements)
Nearside and Offside Track Rod End Ball Joints have slight play
Rear tyre low (been replaced now)
Brake Warning light on dashboard is lit (As every Ebay advert has said since the dawn of time, Iam sure its a simple fix :-) ;-) )
Just been going through all the history and I can see its been well looked after, right upto the guy I bought it from who just wanted the number plate.
Fully stamped up Merc Service book.
All Old MOTS dating back to the nice proper A5 paper ones filled in with pen (lots of nostalgia for me there )
Lots of record of money spent.
Then had a quick google of the previous owner, who had it from 1997 till 2011.
If a Gravel Drive is a sign of a good owner, how does this do ?
Sadly now being turned into flats, but was originally just one house until recently.
Also found a note of some welding on both the rear arches last year when it was serviced, so it might not be too bad when I get those Chrome Horror Hiders off :-)
Fully stamped up Merc Service book.
All Old MOTS dating back to the nice proper A5 paper ones filled in with pen (lots of nostalgia for me there )
Lots of record of money spent.
Then had a quick google of the previous owner, who had it from 1997 till 2011.
If a Gravel Drive is a sign of a good owner, how does this do ?
Sadly now being turned into flats, but was originally just one house until recently.
Also found a note of some welding on both the rear arches last year when it was serviced, so it might not be too bad when I get those Chrome Horror Hiders off :-)
I leave the work to my mechanic who lives working on the car - he describes it as like working with a big mechano set compared to modern cars. Service costs are as cheap as any car I have had and parts are cheap and available. I will try and dig out my latest invoice later on.
I would recommend doing the ball joints with priority as these are one of the few things that stop these cars - shortly after I purchased mine one started making a horrible noise.
I would recommend doing the ball joints with priority as these are one of the few things that stop these cars - shortly after I purchased mine one started making a horrible noise.
Looks like a good project, good on you for taking it on.
My own w126 project hasn't progressed much in a year or so;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
My own w126 project hasn't progressed much in a year or so;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
bmthnick1981 said:
Looks like a good project, good on you for taking it on.
My own w126 project hasn't progressed much in a year or so;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Cheers Nick, your Merc looks lovely, in a few years would love to get something similar.My own w126 project hasn't progressed much in a year or so;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
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