1.8t 20v S1 Elise/Exige Project
Discussion
Bought this car in July 2018, below is the spec:
Engine
Audi AGU 20v turbo engine
Pro Alloy baffled sump
Big Valve head
Uprated injectors
CSK Race Exhausts Tubular Hi Flow Manifold
IHI VF30 Turbo
Pro Alloy charge cooler
Vibra technic engine mounts
Custom made re packagable stainless exhaust
Pro alloy twin alloy rads, water and charge cooler with twin fans
Pro alloy twin alloy header tanks with Blitz caps
EMERALD K6 ecu
Audi O2J, 6 speed gearbox
700bhp Darkside Billet Single Mass Flywheel (SMF) & Clutch Kit for VW 02M 6 Speed
S2 Toyota converted lever
Body and Interior
Lotus Probax seats
Schroth 4 point harnesses
Safety Devices A Frame roll bar diagonals
Sparco Detachable Alcantara steering wheel
JJC Plumbed in fire extinguisher kit 2.25ltr with engine bay mounted anodised jets.
Stack white dial 2 bar boost gauge
Alcantara Door cards
Alcantara Handbrake and gearsticksurrounds
Alcantara Center console and sill covers
Alcantara Dash
Extended rear diffuser
Exterior
S1 111s converted to full Exige bodywork
Genuine Lotus Exige S1 clams and fittings
Drive terrain
Toyo R888R on Exige S1 alloy wheels
Nitron NTR
Eibach Springs
Uprated toe links
AP Racing discs
Pagid Front pads
Yellow Suff rear pads
Goodridge Braided hoses all round
Poly bushed
I took the car to Croft circuit for a track day;
Unfortunately the turbo sheared from the manifold so I only managed half a day. I planed on changing the turbo as it was leaking oil causing a bit of smoke. The plan was to just change the turbo and manifold so I could use a v band to make it as reliable as possible.
The strip down:
While looking for a new turbo I can across a stroker short block engine so decided to go for that. It’s a 92.8mm Eurospec billet crank shaft, 82.5mm JE pistons, IE connecting rods all assembled with ARP bolts and ACL bearings. The engine also came with a Jabbasport baffled sump:
Next I turned my attention to the cylinder head. This got Supertech double valve springs with ti retainers, inconel single grove exhaust valves, stainless steel single grove intake valves and some Catcams 3651:
I then assembled the engine. I used a Fluidampr, PRE billet crank pulley with dowels, PRE manual belt tensioner, Gates Kevlar belt, Catcam adjustable cam pulley, ARP main stud kit, ARP crank bolt and a ARP camshaft bolt.
[pix]https://gallery.seloc.org/albums/fkr/farm5_static_fkr_com_4897_32068434157_f4dfdbd983_b.jpg[/pic]
I ordered a custom manifold from Gravituned and put my new turbo (Owen Development GBT 6173) and my Tial MVR wastegate on:
After that I decided a 6 point roll cage was a good idea so I ordered one from Safety Devices and set about fitting that:
I managed to get some new longerons from the classifieds so fitted them as the old ones were looking a bit tired:
And finally after realising my fuel system wasn’t going to be good enough for the new stroker and turbo I ordered a fuel tank from Pro Alloy. I’ve gone for a central collector 48ltr with baffles, foam filled and a Bosch GST450 intank pump.
Let me know what you think. More updates to come.
Engine
Audi AGU 20v turbo engine
Pro Alloy baffled sump
Big Valve head
Uprated injectors
CSK Race Exhausts Tubular Hi Flow Manifold
IHI VF30 Turbo
Pro Alloy charge cooler
Vibra technic engine mounts
Custom made re packagable stainless exhaust
Pro alloy twin alloy rads, water and charge cooler with twin fans
Pro alloy twin alloy header tanks with Blitz caps
EMERALD K6 ecu
Audi O2J, 6 speed gearbox
700bhp Darkside Billet Single Mass Flywheel (SMF) & Clutch Kit for VW 02M 6 Speed
S2 Toyota converted lever
Body and Interior
Lotus Probax seats
Schroth 4 point harnesses
Safety Devices A Frame roll bar diagonals
Sparco Detachable Alcantara steering wheel
JJC Plumbed in fire extinguisher kit 2.25ltr with engine bay mounted anodised jets.
Stack white dial 2 bar boost gauge
Alcantara Door cards
Alcantara Handbrake and gearsticksurrounds
Alcantara Center console and sill covers
Alcantara Dash
Extended rear diffuser
Exterior
S1 111s converted to full Exige bodywork
Genuine Lotus Exige S1 clams and fittings
Drive terrain
Toyo R888R on Exige S1 alloy wheels
Nitron NTR
Eibach Springs
Uprated toe links
AP Racing discs
Pagid Front pads
Yellow Suff rear pads
Goodridge Braided hoses all round
Poly bushed
I took the car to Croft circuit for a track day;
Unfortunately the turbo sheared from the manifold so I only managed half a day. I planed on changing the turbo as it was leaking oil causing a bit of smoke. The plan was to just change the turbo and manifold so I could use a v band to make it as reliable as possible.
The strip down:
While looking for a new turbo I can across a stroker short block engine so decided to go for that. It’s a 92.8mm Eurospec billet crank shaft, 82.5mm JE pistons, IE connecting rods all assembled with ARP bolts and ACL bearings. The engine also came with a Jabbasport baffled sump:
Next I turned my attention to the cylinder head. This got Supertech double valve springs with ti retainers, inconel single grove exhaust valves, stainless steel single grove intake valves and some Catcams 3651:
I then assembled the engine. I used a Fluidampr, PRE billet crank pulley with dowels, PRE manual belt tensioner, Gates Kevlar belt, Catcam adjustable cam pulley, ARP main stud kit, ARP crank bolt and a ARP camshaft bolt.
[pix]https://gallery.seloc.org/albums/fkr/farm5_static_fkr_com_4897_32068434157_f4dfdbd983_b.jpg[/pic]
I ordered a custom manifold from Gravituned and put my new turbo (Owen Development GBT 6173) and my Tial MVR wastegate on:
After that I decided a 6 point roll cage was a good idea so I ordered one from Safety Devices and set about fitting that:
I managed to get some new longerons from the classifieds so fitted them as the old ones were looking a bit tired:
And finally after realising my fuel system wasn’t going to be good enough for the new stroker and turbo I ordered a fuel tank from Pro Alloy. I’ve gone for a central collector 48ltr with baffles, foam filled and a Bosch GST450 intank pump.
Let me know what you think. More updates to come.
Wow, that's going to be a monster!
I had a 1.8T Elise but never really got on with it due to handling (engine weight), reliability and eventually money lost.
Yours is a considerably better build by the look of things and may well have overcome the problems I encountered along the way. The best upgrade I made was water injection, it made a big difference to the intake temps.
Here is its shortlived racing history: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9SeYKMZRLM
I had a 1.8T Elise but never really got on with it due to handling (engine weight), reliability and eventually money lost.
Yours is a considerably better build by the look of things and may well have overcome the problems I encountered along the way. The best upgrade I made was water injection, it made a big difference to the intake temps. Here is its shortlived racing history: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9SeYKMZRLM
That is a lovely looking bit of kit and should be amazing when you are done.
I owned an S1 with a supercharged / chargecooled K20 Honda lump a while back and loved it when it worked but it was fragile and I grew tired of being over charged and constantly let down by so called specialists of these converted cars, the fact that you can do so much yourself makes a huge difference imo. Will follow with interest, good luck.
I owned an S1 with a supercharged / chargecooled K20 Honda lump a while back and loved it when it worked but it was fragile and I grew tired of being over charged and constantly let down by so called specialists of these converted cars, the fact that you can do so much yourself makes a huge difference imo. Will follow with interest, good luck.
Tin Hat said:
Most impressive. What kind of power are you expecting it to deliver?
It should be around the 500bhp mark. Tried to match the modifications so I can have a fairly linear power curve. In the old setup the turbo used to come in very hard at 4K. Fishy Dave said:
Wow, that's going to be a monster!
I had a 1.8T Elise but never really got on with it due to handling (engine weight), reliability and eventually money lost. Yours is a considerably better build by the look of things and may well have overcome the problems I encountered along the way. The best upgrade I made was water injection, it made a big difference to the intake temps.
Here is its shortlived racing history: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9SeYKMZRLM
That was a good watch. It’s a shame you didn’t enjoy it. Was yours charged or inter cooled? It’s a bit of a money pit but I don’t think I’ll be selling this one! I had a 1.8T Elise but never really got on with it due to handling (engine weight), reliability and eventually money lost.
Yours is a considerably better build by the look of things and may well have overcome the problems I encountered along the way. The best upgrade I made was water injection, it made a big difference to the intake temps. Here is its shortlived racing history: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9SeYKMZRLM
Rocket. said:
That is a lovely looking bit of kit and should be amazing when you are done.
I owned an S1 with a supercharged / chargecooled K20 Honda lump a while back and loved it when it worked but it was fragile and I grew tired of being over charged and constantly let down by so called specialists of these converted cars, the fact that you can do so much yourself makes a huge difference imo. Will follow with interest, good luck.
Yeah with this build I’ve tried to make it as reliable as possible. Having built most bits myself if something goes wrong hopefully I’ll have a good idea. I did notice the ‘specialists’ charge an arm and a leg. My car has previously been in to one for a full going over by the previous. Bill was £5500 and when I’ve taken stuff off I’ve found a few bits that were assembled wrong and asking for trouble. I owned an S1 with a supercharged / chargecooled K20 Honda lump a while back and loved it when it worked but it was fragile and I grew tired of being over charged and constantly let down by so called specialists of these converted cars, the fact that you can do so much yourself makes a huge difference imo. Will follow with interest, good luck.
Since last time I’ve built my bulkhead, there was a lot of head scratching but I’m very happy with how it turned out.
It made with 1.2mm aluminium sheet. It’s surprisingly strong with all the bends that were put in it. To finish it off I covered it in 3mm silent coat.
I sent the engine mount parts off to be powder coated.
Finally I fitted the engine.
I fitted my new inlet and was happy that the work with the bulkhead was worth it as I’ve gained more than enough space for it all to fit. The new inlet is huge in comparison and I didn’t have a great deal of room with the old one.
The next thing to do is to clearance the rear subframe as the new exhaust manifold is fouling on it. I’ve cut it roughly to see what I’m working with but I’ll have to come up with a solution.
It made with 1.2mm aluminium sheet. It’s surprisingly strong with all the bends that were put in it. To finish it off I covered it in 3mm silent coat.
I sent the engine mount parts off to be powder coated.
Finally I fitted the engine.
I fitted my new inlet and was happy that the work with the bulkhead was worth it as I’ve gained more than enough space for it all to fit. The new inlet is huge in comparison and I didn’t have a great deal of room with the old one.
The next thing to do is to clearance the rear subframe as the new exhaust manifold is fouling on it. I’ve cut it roughly to see what I’m working with but I’ll have to come up with a solution.
Bit of an update,
I had to modify my rear subframe to fit the manifold. While I was at it I decided to fill in the old exhaust cutout as it won’t be used and hopefully it should add some rigidity.
I got it powder coated and now I can finally fit the turbo.
I removed the wiring loom from the car as there seemed to be lots of stuff I didn’t need in it. I got rid of the standard alarms, radio and a few other bits. The amount of weight saved from doing this was surprising.
I then set about wiring it all back in behind the seats. It’s still a work in progress but I’m happy with it so far. The old loom had some awful looking splices and an unnecessary amount of them. I’ve managed to get rid of 90% of them so it’s all looking a lot better.
After that I sent the car to Zac at ZK Fabrications for some work. Highly recommended him for custom fabrication work. His approach and workmanship was remarkable.
I got him to make me a turbo brace:
A 3” exhaust with a large repack able back box:
And finally a custom tank to incorporate my charge cooler, breather and expansion tanks.
I think I’ll get it powder coated black but I love the one piece design.
After I got the car back I installed the fuel system which includes an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator and billet fuel filter. I connected all the fuel system up with AN6 fittings and also my breather system with AN10. I got all my fittings from Torques and the quality and delivery time are second to none!
I had to modify my rear subframe to fit the manifold. While I was at it I decided to fill in the old exhaust cutout as it won’t be used and hopefully it should add some rigidity.
I got it powder coated and now I can finally fit the turbo.
I removed the wiring loom from the car as there seemed to be lots of stuff I didn’t need in it. I got rid of the standard alarms, radio and a few other bits. The amount of weight saved from doing this was surprising.
I then set about wiring it all back in behind the seats. It’s still a work in progress but I’m happy with it so far. The old loom had some awful looking splices and an unnecessary amount of them. I’ve managed to get rid of 90% of them so it’s all looking a lot better.
After that I sent the car to Zac at ZK Fabrications for some work. Highly recommended him for custom fabrication work. His approach and workmanship was remarkable.
I got him to make me a turbo brace:
A 3” exhaust with a large repack able back box:
And finally a custom tank to incorporate my charge cooler, breather and expansion tanks.
I think I’ll get it powder coated black but I love the one piece design.
After I got the car back I installed the fuel system which includes an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator and billet fuel filter. I connected all the fuel system up with AN6 fittings and also my breather system with AN10. I got all my fittings from Torques and the quality and delivery time are second to none!
Looks good! A few bits i'd change (if i'm being picky! :-) )
1) Engine mounts. Swap out that bit of left over WW1 battleship armour thats holding the engine up! A flat plate in bending is a really silly use of material! Get a nice thin, ribbed (for extra pleasure) one made and save about a kg!
2) Coil pack loom above exhaust manifold - nope, move that to the inlet (cold) side of the engine (iirc, you can spin the coil packs round 180 so the connectors face forwards??)
3) Turbo support - looks lovely, with the curved lower braces, but that ain't going to do much bracing! The turbo, manifold and down pipe probably weighs 20 kg, you need the support to be much stiffer in the vertical plane to avoid cracked manifolds from vibration stress
If it were mine, and i was going to all that effort, i'd also get the engine down in the chassis (transverse mid engined cars like elises/exige engine conversions are made or ruined, handling wise by the rear CofG. Get the weight at the back LOW!! I'd also get the heavy turbo on the floor, and go for a composite intake to further reduce rear CofG.
But i'm being picky tbh, it'll be great!
1) Engine mounts. Swap out that bit of left over WW1 battleship armour thats holding the engine up! A flat plate in bending is a really silly use of material! Get a nice thin, ribbed (for extra pleasure) one made and save about a kg!
2) Coil pack loom above exhaust manifold - nope, move that to the inlet (cold) side of the engine (iirc, you can spin the coil packs round 180 so the connectors face forwards??)
3) Turbo support - looks lovely, with the curved lower braces, but that ain't going to do much bracing! The turbo, manifold and down pipe probably weighs 20 kg, you need the support to be much stiffer in the vertical plane to avoid cracked manifolds from vibration stress
If it were mine, and i was going to all that effort, i'd also get the engine down in the chassis (transverse mid engined cars like elises/exige engine conversions are made or ruined, handling wise by the rear CofG. Get the weight at the back LOW!! I'd also get the heavy turbo on the floor, and go for a composite intake to further reduce rear CofG.
But i'm being picky tbh, it'll be great!
oh yeah and:
4) Twist together the drive wires for the coils, injectors and throttle body! Esp. the throttle body! (The motor in the body is pulse width modulated, by twisting the + and - wires together you are tightly coupling those wires, minimising their parasitic inductance, and preventing them radiating high frequency noise out into the rest of the loom. If you consider the flow of current, always aim to minimise the "loop" area around which that current flows. For the throttle, current flows into the ecu, via a fuse (i hope!), then out to the throttle body on the motor+ wire, through the throttle motor, and back to the ecu on the motor- wire, then back out of the ecu on the ecu ground wire. Ideally, that complete path should be "closed" with no loops for a net magnetic field of zero
4) Twist together the drive wires for the coils, injectors and throttle body! Esp. the throttle body! (The motor in the body is pulse width modulated, by twisting the + and - wires together you are tightly coupling those wires, minimising their parasitic inductance, and preventing them radiating high frequency noise out into the rest of the loom. If you consider the flow of current, always aim to minimise the "loop" area around which that current flows. For the throttle, current flows into the ecu, via a fuse (i hope!), then out to the throttle body on the motor+ wire, through the throttle motor, and back to the ecu on the motor- wire, then back out of the ecu on the ecu ground wire. Ideally, that complete path should be "closed" with no loops for a net magnetic field of zero
Well several months on and we have an update. Ended up changing jobs and moving house so the Lotus has been on the back burner. With the new garage almost finished I can start work again.
A picture when the Lotus finally got in the garage.
I have started with the rear suspension, all parts powder coated gloss black, EP tuning wishbone bearings, Delphi ball joints, EP ultimate rear uprights with toe link kit and some EP 304 2 piece rotors. I plan on using the front callipers on the rear and getting a spot calliper for my handbrake.
I purchased a set of S2 Nitron NTR 46 for a more track focused setup as opposed to my old NTR 40. I initially was just going to change the springs but these came up at the right price so I went for them. I had the springs powder coated just to freshen them up.
The front got a set of EP GT uprights, EP bump steer kit, EP 1” ARB, EP tuning wishbone bearings, Delphi ball joints, EP 304 2 piece rotors and a EP BBK with titanium pistons. I didn’t like the red so the calipers were painted to match the rears.
I got some custom brake hoses made up for the new front calipers and longer rears as I wasn’t happy with the length of the original that some people use. I fitted my EP larger bore master cylinder and bled the brakes with Motul RBF660
This finally allowed the wheels to be fitted and it could be taken off the axle stands. The ride height needs some adjustment!
I then turned my attention the the front crash box. The drivers side panel had previously been damaged and the repair was not very good. I decided to cut it out and fabricate an aluminium one. I did both sides just to keep everything equal. Doing this to the passengers side also gave me a great place to mount the EWP as there was no space at the back. They're both painted black now.
Having mounted the pump there allows me to have a bypass loop underneath but meant I had to loose my driving lights and I needed the space. I was considering getting rid anyways so this just forced my hand. I fabricated some blanking plates which allowed me to cut out the recess.
Finally someone had drilled two large holes in the crash box for reasons I can’t see. I fibreglassed them back in and whilst doing it I also blanked the feed to the heater matrix as I no longer have this.
A picture when the Lotus finally got in the garage.
I have started with the rear suspension, all parts powder coated gloss black, EP tuning wishbone bearings, Delphi ball joints, EP ultimate rear uprights with toe link kit and some EP 304 2 piece rotors. I plan on using the front callipers on the rear and getting a spot calliper for my handbrake.
I purchased a set of S2 Nitron NTR 46 for a more track focused setup as opposed to my old NTR 40. I initially was just going to change the springs but these came up at the right price so I went for them. I had the springs powder coated just to freshen them up.
The front got a set of EP GT uprights, EP bump steer kit, EP 1” ARB, EP tuning wishbone bearings, Delphi ball joints, EP 304 2 piece rotors and a EP BBK with titanium pistons. I didn’t like the red so the calipers were painted to match the rears.
I got some custom brake hoses made up for the new front calipers and longer rears as I wasn’t happy with the length of the original that some people use. I fitted my EP larger bore master cylinder and bled the brakes with Motul RBF660
This finally allowed the wheels to be fitted and it could be taken off the axle stands. The ride height needs some adjustment!
I then turned my attention the the front crash box. The drivers side panel had previously been damaged and the repair was not very good. I decided to cut it out and fabricate an aluminium one. I did both sides just to keep everything equal. Doing this to the passengers side also gave me a great place to mount the EWP as there was no space at the back. They're both painted black now.
Having mounted the pump there allows me to have a bypass loop underneath but meant I had to loose my driving lights and I needed the space. I was considering getting rid anyways so this just forced my hand. I fabricated some blanking plates which allowed me to cut out the recess.
Finally someone had drilled two large holes in the crash box for reasons I can’t see. I fibreglassed them back in and whilst doing it I also blanked the feed to the heater matrix as I no longer have this.
Max_Torque said:
Looks good! A few bits i'd change (if i'm being picky! :-) )
1) Engine mounts. Swap out that bit of left over WW1 battleship armour thats holding the engine up! A flat plate in bending is a really silly use of material! Get a nice thin, ribbed (for extra pleasure) one made and save about a kg!
2) Coil pack loom above exhaust manifold - nope, move that to the inlet (cold) side of the engine (iirc, you can spin the coil packs round 180 so the connectors face forwards??)
3) Turbo support - looks lovely, with the curved lower braces, but that ain't going to do much bracing! The turbo, manifold and down pipe probably weighs 20 kg, you need the support to be much stiffer in the vertical plane to avoid cracked manifolds from vibration stress
If it were mine, and i was going to all that effort, i'd also get the engine down in the chassis (transverse mid engined cars like elises/exige engine conversions are made or ruined, handling wise by the rear CofG. Get the weight at the back LOW!! I'd also get the heavy turbo on the floor, and go for a composite intake to further reduce rear CofG.
But i'm being picky tbh, it'll be great!
I've got any Audi engine conversion in an S2, it has exactly the same weight distribution as an OEM Exige S but is 100kg lighter 1) Engine mounts. Swap out that bit of left over WW1 battleship armour thats holding the engine up! A flat plate in bending is a really silly use of material! Get a nice thin, ribbed (for extra pleasure) one made and save about a kg!
2) Coil pack loom above exhaust manifold - nope, move that to the inlet (cold) side of the engine (iirc, you can spin the coil packs round 180 so the connectors face forwards??)
3) Turbo support - looks lovely, with the curved lower braces, but that ain't going to do much bracing! The turbo, manifold and down pipe probably weighs 20 kg, you need the support to be much stiffer in the vertical plane to avoid cracked manifolds from vibration stress
If it were mine, and i was going to all that effort, i'd also get the engine down in the chassis (transverse mid engined cars like elises/exige engine conversions are made or ruined, handling wise by the rear CofG. Get the weight at the back LOW!! I'd also get the heavy turbo on the floor, and go for a composite intake to further reduce rear CofG.
But i'm being picky tbh, it'll be great!
The Honda conversion is widely accepted as a good conversion even though the engine is very tall
Edited by Peregrine Falcon on Wednesday 13th May 23:00
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