The mild adventures of an old XC90 D5
Discussion
I recently decided to go for something that's been on the peripheral of my options for quite some time - an XC90.
Quick background
I've owned a lot of cars over my time thus far, and a lot of interesting things that you have to start looking at when you have kids. Some of them have been stop-gaps, and some of them more calculated. I don't do lots of miles and especially not during lockdown - this led me, earlier in the pandemic, to sell off the Lexus hybrid we had because they are simply terrible at 'sitting around'.
I previously had a V6 3.0 Ford Maverick (the later ones that look like a jacked Escort, rather than the Terrano ones) that was great to drive, but it was quite depressing that a long journey would cost a fair bit in fuel and this often put me off going anyway (even if the annual maths meant it wasn't an issue). I'd since gone through a few things that had to balance the following criteria:
Why an XC90?
So over the years I've had a recommendation of the XC90 several times - one colleague's parents used to buy them when living in Germany (with BF as staff) and he was insistent that they were great, but my thoughts were "yeah, that's when they were still less than a year old!". He also insisted they were really frugal, but I was skeptical as a big heavy (2.5 ton+) 4x4 has its limits. I've owned a C30 D5 before that was pretty fast and also could achieve near 70mpg indicated when somewhat hyper-miled (but comfortably 55mpg+ otherwise), but that really suffered from short journeys quite rapidly, with the vanes on the turbo sticking and the EGR clogging. It made it a constant worry, so I wanted to avoid that. I worked in a Volvo dealer a few years back and remember the XC90 generally being an expensive thing to both buy and run, so all this had generally kept me away.
There's also the reality that when cars start to approach the affordability of "lemonade-budget" ownership that the condition of them degrades exponentially - this was one of the things that put me off the usual suspects of C4 GP, S-Max, Galaxy etc - budget tyres, bodged repairs, poor maintenance and so on. Volvos tend to find affluent owners in my experience, so I thought there's a good chance most will have good/generous histories.
Finding one
All that aside, I'd decided that I wouldn't mind picking one up if I saw the right one for the right price. I had a bid on one on eBay that needed some work for sub £2k, and that 'if it goes for the right price' suddenly kicked me into a mission to find one. A bit silly, because I was in no rush, but nonetheless I didn't win it and went hunting.
My ideal criteria, based on some basic (but insufficient) research was:
So of course I did the sensible thing and bought possibly the wrong one, which was a local one, but I thought it might make an interesting story. It might turn into a complete nightmare, but I thought it'd make for some experience without being excessively expensive. I've done some YT videos before and might possibly do something around this at some point, but for now I thought it'd be good to document this in a thread. I expect as these drop to Shed money, this might be useful for the uninitiated.
The one I got
I went for one that was up for a shade under £2k. It's:
OK, so first things first - it was being kept in a somewhat neutral location, stored at a yard. Often to be avoided, but the current owner had owned it for over a year and it was in a congested city, so I thought it was fine on balance but, of course, skims near the type of experience that ends up as a thread on here in its own right.
Otherwise, it seemed reasonably decent and I took it for a drive.
Knowing pretty much the 'minimum' value for the car (having seen what they tended to sell for even as non-runners), and not minding a bit of a spannering, I took a calculated risk and got a bit chipped off. I'd already done a full 'HPI' check and there wasn't much of particular note/concern:
(*More to follow!*)
Quick background
I've owned a lot of cars over my time thus far, and a lot of interesting things that you have to start looking at when you have kids. Some of them have been stop-gaps, and some of them more calculated. I don't do lots of miles and especially not during lockdown - this led me, earlier in the pandemic, to sell off the Lexus hybrid we had because they are simply terrible at 'sitting around'.
I previously had a V6 3.0 Ford Maverick (the later ones that look like a jacked Escort, rather than the Terrano ones) that was great to drive, but it was quite depressing that a long journey would cost a fair bit in fuel and this often put me off going anyway (even if the annual maths meant it wasn't an issue). I'd since gone through a few things that had to balance the following criteria:
- Space for taking a young baby/toddler on a holiday (a pushchair fills almost entire boot of most cars, and then you have toys, clothes, supplies etc). This usually means something 'estate-like' or, by the simple equivalence, a 7 seater (room for 2 more seats usually indicates good load space)
- Happy to be driven irregularly, near or far. It's nice to jump in a car once a month and know it'll start, and it's good to not have to worry about driving a diesel car to the supermarket and back without worrying about damaging the emissions systems.
- Somewhat affordable to run. 30mpg achievable, and without the depressing concept of £60pcm DD just for RFL
- Elevated driving position - the Mrs can but doesn't drive, but has a forceful opinion on the car. She complains when I don't have something 'higher up' and we've generally found that, for some reason, 'normal' cars seem to induce long-journey vomiting in the kids where 4x4/SUB types don't. No idea if there's science behind this.
- Something appealing. This is my own criteria, and it's massively subjective, but I like to look at something and think "yeah, I like that", and it often means nothing I interpret as bland or common.
Why an XC90?
So over the years I've had a recommendation of the XC90 several times - one colleague's parents used to buy them when living in Germany (with BF as staff) and he was insistent that they were great, but my thoughts were "yeah, that's when they were still less than a year old!". He also insisted they were really frugal, but I was skeptical as a big heavy (2.5 ton+) 4x4 has its limits. I've owned a C30 D5 before that was pretty fast and also could achieve near 70mpg indicated when somewhat hyper-miled (but comfortably 55mpg+ otherwise), but that really suffered from short journeys quite rapidly, with the vanes on the turbo sticking and the EGR clogging. It made it a constant worry, so I wanted to avoid that. I worked in a Volvo dealer a few years back and remember the XC90 generally being an expensive thing to both buy and run, so all this had generally kept me away.
There's also the reality that when cars start to approach the affordability of "lemonade-budget" ownership that the condition of them degrades exponentially - this was one of the things that put me off the usual suspects of C4 GP, S-Max, Galaxy etc - budget tyres, bodged repairs, poor maintenance and so on. Volvos tend to find affluent owners in my experience, so I thought there's a good chance most will have good/generous histories.
Finding one
All that aside, I'd decided that I wouldn't mind picking one up if I saw the right one for the right price. I had a bid on one on eBay that needed some work for sub £2k, and that 'if it goes for the right price' suddenly kicked me into a mission to find one. A bit silly, because I was in no rush, but nonetheless I didn't win it and went hunting.
My ideal criteria, based on some basic (but insufficient) research was:
- Max of 55-plate to avoid 06-on VED rates, whilst being realistic on budget
- 163bhp model to get EURO3 to avoid the more complex emissions stuff that will likely be an achilles heel
- Manual model, to avoid the auto box problems on examples in this age/budget, as well as maximising potential MPG. I love an auto these days, and the CVT in the Lexus was lovely (in my opinion), but I knew that an autobox failure in a cheaper car can be an economical disaster.
- Ideally a black one because they look nice
- Reasonably local, because of COVID and logistical issues (not so easy or practical to jump on a train)
So of course I did the sensible thing and bought possibly the wrong one, which was a local one, but I thought it might make an interesting story. It might turn into a complete nightmare, but I thought it'd make for some experience without being excessively expensive. I've done some YT videos before and might possibly do something around this at some point, but for now I thought it'd be good to document this in a thread. I expect as these drop to Shed money, this might be useful for the uninitiated.
The one I got
I went for one that was up for a shade under £2k. It's:
- July 2005 registered, so among the latest of the Euro3 models.
- Manual, which due to the footbrake thing (maybe more on that later) is seen as quite rare
- Decent spec; full leather, parking sensors, DVD screens, Tinted windows. I think it's based on SE spec with some extras
- 12 Months MOT
- 3 Keys (2 Remote), lots of history etc.
- Reasonably local to me
OK, so first things first - it was being kept in a somewhat neutral location, stored at a yard. Often to be avoided, but the current owner had owned it for over a year and it was in a congested city, so I thought it was fine on balance but, of course, skims near the type of experience that ends up as a thread on here in its own right.
- The head gasket was done (apparently) a year ago, but the block was very oily. Was supposedly done by a 'mobile mechanic', but my general gut feeling was that the owner or an acquaintance had done some spannering and it was deflected a bit. In any case, not even Edd China seems to care about cleaning up the areas he fixes around (at least on TV), so it's not unusual to have some spillages/mess around a job that's been done on a time budget.
- The bonnet closed itself when he moved the car forwards with it open. Obviously weak struts on it, but not a hugely expensive issue (to be resolved with a piece of timber in the short term)
- The front tyres were worn on the edges, and all four were matching but very cheap/budget brands
- Bodywork had some marks, but the colour was forgiving of it. Was missing a reflector and a few smaller trim pieces on the outside.
- Apparently DVD screens worked, but didn't bother testing them as I'd read that it was more than likely they wouldn't. As such, I arrived 'expecting' them to be broken and didn't care either way.
- Alarm siren was faulty, as seems to be quite common, and there was an error for the parking sensors too. A new sensor was provided to allegedly resolve that, but I haven't looked into it
- Trim inside was a bit broken/tatty in places
- Front brakes needed changing
- One of the headlights was UV damaged/foggy.*
Otherwise, it seemed reasonably decent and I took it for a drive.
- Drove well, went into gears fine. For, in fact, a first time driving an XC90, I was impressed at how un-tank-like it was. It felt less tank-like than my old 480 actually! Power felt fine, and I drove it in a serene/patient way to try and see if it had any running issues. The belief here is that labouring the engine is likely to exhibit any issues more than spanking it. Also did a small thrash once warm to check that and, despite what I'd read, there was nothing at all slow or lethargic about the 163 it had.
- Indicators occasionally did nothing when asked, but again I was anticipating some bits like that.
- Blower motor knob doesn't seem to manually change the blower speed (as also indicated by the green lights above it that weren't changing).
- Going round a small roundabout made the oil light flicker slightly
- The wheel was off centre when going straight and it pulled right when braking. Possibly just tracking, maybe more.
Knowing pretty much the 'minimum' value for the car (having seen what they tended to sell for even as non-runners), and not minding a bit of a spannering, I took a calculated risk and got a bit chipped off. I'd already done a full 'HPI' check and there wasn't much of particular note/concern:
(*More to follow!*)
So, first annoying thing that I found was that I couldn't tax the car online because it has a Taxation Class of 'Disabled'.
This wasn't a huge issue, as I was going away for a week or so, but is still a bit of a pain that you'd have thought the seller might have mentioned. Equally, I could have seen it on the V5 but it's an unusual one to need to check - one to note for future purposes maybe!
In the mean time, it's on a SORN. I'm hoping I can change the class to PLG without having to stump up 6 months of VED (e.g. do it without having to also instantly tax it). Not sure though, as it's the DVLA and most of their processes are ambiguous if not contradictory. I might have to contact them to check.
During this, I thought I'd check out some of the simpler stuff:
Driver's headlight
As noted, the driver's side was missing the headlight washer cover and the lens was cloudy.
As it's a Volvo of this era, removing the headlight is an absolute doddle.
I didn't spend too long on it, but I gave it a quick/experimental going over with some of the materials I have knocking about (various W&D, plus some different Farecla and Megs compounds).
Not perfect, but a decent improvement for now. It isn't really a critical bit to worry about, but I wanted it to look a little better.
I also managed to get a 2nd hand washer cover for just under a tenner. Bit of a nuisance to fit, but managed it in the end:
Interior trim
There are a few bits that need looking at, like this air vent:
Most of the window buttons are cracked, but seem to work fine, so I won't worry about them too much:
I haven't fiddled around too much with the heating/stereo - radio seems to work fine, but as noted the manual adjustment for the blower seems to be mostly useless. I think 'auto' works fine with it, so again it's not a priority
The 2nd row centre console's ashtray cover was broken and unfitted, so I just epoxy'd this back on
The console itself is designed to lift out to allow the middle seat on the 2nd row to slide forwards. The seat has a built in 'booster' and has enough travel to slide forwards and almost become a middle seat for the front row.
The problem is, it seems to be prone to come loose and not stay in place, so people bodge them to stay fixed:
Removing the console revealed a pin, that I think is for the 12v cigarette socket, was broken
I also noticed some 'friends' had appeared in the cup holder area:
Lots of rattling and shaking later...
The mechanism itself looks fine
But there's some trim that *should* be here to give it something to clip into. Not sure if these even have a part number to buy separately, or if I'm better trying to make something. I don't really like the idea of bodging it in place like others seem to
The 3rd row cubby was in peices
I managed to piece this back together with what was already there
Rear screens
I didn't do a lot with these, but did find they turn on at least. This implementation is the Volvo UK screens they did after they were imported I believe, so it has the DVD multi-changer in the boot. It looks like the wiring may have been bodged over time, so this is going to be another thread to pull on. At least the screens seem to come on, for now.
There are some inputs and wires that I think relate to it in the 3rd row - not sure, but I suspect, the chocolate block is some sort of speaker wiring
The load cover is also working and available, which is a nice-to-have
Warnings etc
As noted, the park assist warning is on. I'll have to see if I can read the faults using the Delphi scanner I have. I did once have a DiCE clone but sold it a long time back - may need to invest in one again maybe.
There's also an intermittent one for the Alarm, as noted, which is likely to be the common siren battery failure.
The indicated MPG from the journey back was possibly optimistic, but it seems like decent MPG is acheiveable from these, based on other's andecotes
This wasn't a huge issue, as I was going away for a week or so, but is still a bit of a pain that you'd have thought the seller might have mentioned. Equally, I could have seen it on the V5 but it's an unusual one to need to check - one to note for future purposes maybe!
In the mean time, it's on a SORN. I'm hoping I can change the class to PLG without having to stump up 6 months of VED (e.g. do it without having to also instantly tax it). Not sure though, as it's the DVLA and most of their processes are ambiguous if not contradictory. I might have to contact them to check.
During this, I thought I'd check out some of the simpler stuff:
Driver's headlight
As noted, the driver's side was missing the headlight washer cover and the lens was cloudy.
As it's a Volvo of this era, removing the headlight is an absolute doddle.
I didn't spend too long on it, but I gave it a quick/experimental going over with some of the materials I have knocking about (various W&D, plus some different Farecla and Megs compounds).
Not perfect, but a decent improvement for now. It isn't really a critical bit to worry about, but I wanted it to look a little better.
I also managed to get a 2nd hand washer cover for just under a tenner. Bit of a nuisance to fit, but managed it in the end:
Interior trim
There are a few bits that need looking at, like this air vent:
Most of the window buttons are cracked, but seem to work fine, so I won't worry about them too much:
I haven't fiddled around too much with the heating/stereo - radio seems to work fine, but as noted the manual adjustment for the blower seems to be mostly useless. I think 'auto' works fine with it, so again it's not a priority
The 2nd row centre console's ashtray cover was broken and unfitted, so I just epoxy'd this back on
The console itself is designed to lift out to allow the middle seat on the 2nd row to slide forwards. The seat has a built in 'booster' and has enough travel to slide forwards and almost become a middle seat for the front row.
The problem is, it seems to be prone to come loose and not stay in place, so people bodge them to stay fixed:
Removing the console revealed a pin, that I think is for the 12v cigarette socket, was broken
I also noticed some 'friends' had appeared in the cup holder area:
Lots of rattling and shaking later...
The mechanism itself looks fine
But there's some trim that *should* be here to give it something to clip into. Not sure if these even have a part number to buy separately, or if I'm better trying to make something. I don't really like the idea of bodging it in place like others seem to
The 3rd row cubby was in peices
I managed to piece this back together with what was already there
Rear screens
I didn't do a lot with these, but did find they turn on at least. This implementation is the Volvo UK screens they did after they were imported I believe, so it has the DVD multi-changer in the boot. It looks like the wiring may have been bodged over time, so this is going to be another thread to pull on. At least the screens seem to come on, for now.
There are some inputs and wires that I think relate to it in the 3rd row - not sure, but I suspect, the chocolate block is some sort of speaker wiring
The load cover is also working and available, which is a nice-to-have
Warnings etc
As noted, the park assist warning is on. I'll have to see if I can read the faults using the Delphi scanner I have. I did once have a DiCE clone but sold it a long time back - may need to invest in one again maybe.
There's also an intermittent one for the Alarm, as noted, which is likely to be the common siren battery failure.
The indicated MPG from the journey back was possibly optimistic, but it seems like decent MPG is acheiveable from these, based on other's andecotes
Edited by motorbloke on Monday 26th October 12:41
Edited by motorbloke on Monday 26th October 12:42
Edited by motorbloke on Monday 26th October 12:43
Exterior bits
Bit of a rubbish photo, but I thought the tailgate locking wasn't working - it turns out the upper handle itself is 'sticking'
I separated it all and tried to grease it all up, but I think the rod the handle pivots on is just a bit rusty and is causing resistance a bit. It doesn't "spring" back as expected, so you have to manually push it back again.
Both number plate lamps are damaged, so I may eventually look out for a complete second hand unit
Oily stuff
So this is my priority, really. There is, of course, a huge risk with the 163 D5 that is the core plug for the oil chamber that sits behind the flywheel. This was rubber from factory and can, eventually, pop out and cause an oil leak. Fixing it is a couple of quid in parts, but a huge amount in labour.
My first task was to clean up the top area of the engine to see if I can rule in or out a top end/cover leak
Next, I thought I'd check the underside. Releasing the under-tray revealed a zip-tie bodge:
This involved 5 or 6 metal bolts, some 13mm and a couple of 12mm's. Not sure if another bodge or if that's normal really.
This revealed a bit of an oily mess
At this point you'd assume that it must be from since the last oil change, but then again I know not everyone is me and some people would just change the oil and get on with their lives. No idea why you'd ignore a big oil leak though, if there is one.
10k had been done between Sept 19 and Oct 20 (between MOTs) and he reckoned he last did the oil before lockdown in Feb/March, and hadn't used the car for a few months, so I have no real idea of the 'rate' of this leak - I can confirm that there was a coffee mug sized dribble both under where it was parked when bought, and since it's been left on the drive, so I assume it's an active leak (not some an old leak, e.g. some of the above, slowly dribbling off). This was appearing under the belt end of the under-tray.
The rail on the driver's side shows the same evidence of the leak area, but as there is old oil *everywhere* on the engine, I had no clues as the origin.
The upper valve cover has a bit of 'sweating' but doesn't look to be any active leak:
This is the general crud that's below the head line, so unsure if it's old mess from when the head was supposed to have been done, or it its fresh. I need to ideally clean it all off and monitor
Generally, the gearbox end is dry so I anticipate it's perhaps not the core plug.
I gave the sump a quick clean with some Jizer and wire wool and will monitor:
I didn't clean up the back/sump plug area, but it looks like it's not coming down there:
Slightly unsure about the belt end again:
Ideally I need to clean it all up, but short days and long night, plus work, will make this a staged process. The saving grace is that an oil leak is very good at protecting against corrosion
I know the intercoolers can be an issue, and it could make sense if the oil 'blew back' onto the sump area, but I would have expected a bit of a power loss and not so much of the localised drip, but I'll have to dig into it more.
EGR
I thought I'd have a quick look at the EGR/Mixer too, and clean it up a little. Needed a good clean but was mostly fine - no where near the horrors I've seen before
Cleaned up a bit:
Potential upcoming horrors
I didn't notice it on viewing/driving, but I *think* the DMF is a bit thumpy. Perhaps I should have noticed it, or perhaps it's intermittent. Either way it seems like it's a pretty huge job to do a clutch on one so I don't think the lack of oil from the core plug area is a long term reassurance really.
Hopefully it'll be fine until I can get to the point where I can determine if spending £1000-1500 potentially on that kind of thing is worth it, or if it's sensible to attempt such a thing on a driveway. If it can wait until the summer then it's more viable I guess.
So, to summarise:
- Try and resolve the oil leak
- Keep an eye on the DMF
- Tailgate handle is sticking
- Tyres will, at some point, need sorting
- Tracking/steering is out. Could be bush/suspension to sort, but otherwise drives fine
- Front brakes will need doing eventually, but they are still fine for now
- Need to sort the centre console and a few bits of trim
- Need to investigate the blower motor issue
- Need to find out what the issue with the parking sensors is
- Check if the DVD stuff works and potentially tidy up the wiring
Good bits so far:
- Nice spec and has good history. Both remotes work
- Drove lovely and clutch seemed to be fine
- Seemed to have great fuel economy
- Looks well, but for some small bits on close inspection
- A/C apparently works, but hard to tell at this time of year
- Engine sounded good and exhaust would appear to be fine
- Has indication of a couple of timing belt changes (135k/2016 and, allegedly, 175k/2019 ish)
Granted, I could have paid a bit more and maybe not had these issues, but I think it's chance you take with anything like this. I could probably sort most, if not all, the problems and be in for around £3k, but the DMF and oil leak has the potentially to cost more than the car if I pay someone else to sort it, so we'll see.
Should be plenty to do to make an interesting ownership thread I guess - lots of 'issues' to tackle that can hopefully make for an interesting read. I'm open to any experience/hints on the subject!
Bit of a rubbish photo, but I thought the tailgate locking wasn't working - it turns out the upper handle itself is 'sticking'
I separated it all and tried to grease it all up, but I think the rod the handle pivots on is just a bit rusty and is causing resistance a bit. It doesn't "spring" back as expected, so you have to manually push it back again.
Both number plate lamps are damaged, so I may eventually look out for a complete second hand unit
Oily stuff
So this is my priority, really. There is, of course, a huge risk with the 163 D5 that is the core plug for the oil chamber that sits behind the flywheel. This was rubber from factory and can, eventually, pop out and cause an oil leak. Fixing it is a couple of quid in parts, but a huge amount in labour.
My first task was to clean up the top area of the engine to see if I can rule in or out a top end/cover leak
Next, I thought I'd check the underside. Releasing the under-tray revealed a zip-tie bodge:
This involved 5 or 6 metal bolts, some 13mm and a couple of 12mm's. Not sure if another bodge or if that's normal really.
This revealed a bit of an oily mess
At this point you'd assume that it must be from since the last oil change, but then again I know not everyone is me and some people would just change the oil and get on with their lives. No idea why you'd ignore a big oil leak though, if there is one.
10k had been done between Sept 19 and Oct 20 (between MOTs) and he reckoned he last did the oil before lockdown in Feb/March, and hadn't used the car for a few months, so I have no real idea of the 'rate' of this leak - I can confirm that there was a coffee mug sized dribble both under where it was parked when bought, and since it's been left on the drive, so I assume it's an active leak (not some an old leak, e.g. some of the above, slowly dribbling off). This was appearing under the belt end of the under-tray.
The rail on the driver's side shows the same evidence of the leak area, but as there is old oil *everywhere* on the engine, I had no clues as the origin.
The upper valve cover has a bit of 'sweating' but doesn't look to be any active leak:
This is the general crud that's below the head line, so unsure if it's old mess from when the head was supposed to have been done, or it its fresh. I need to ideally clean it all off and monitor
Generally, the gearbox end is dry so I anticipate it's perhaps not the core plug.
I gave the sump a quick clean with some Jizer and wire wool and will monitor:
I didn't clean up the back/sump plug area, but it looks like it's not coming down there:
Slightly unsure about the belt end again:
Ideally I need to clean it all up, but short days and long night, plus work, will make this a staged process. The saving grace is that an oil leak is very good at protecting against corrosion
I know the intercoolers can be an issue, and it could make sense if the oil 'blew back' onto the sump area, but I would have expected a bit of a power loss and not so much of the localised drip, but I'll have to dig into it more.
EGR
I thought I'd have a quick look at the EGR/Mixer too, and clean it up a little. Needed a good clean but was mostly fine - no where near the horrors I've seen before
Cleaned up a bit:
Potential upcoming horrors
I didn't notice it on viewing/driving, but I *think* the DMF is a bit thumpy. Perhaps I should have noticed it, or perhaps it's intermittent. Either way it seems like it's a pretty huge job to do a clutch on one so I don't think the lack of oil from the core plug area is a long term reassurance really.
Hopefully it'll be fine until I can get to the point where I can determine if spending £1000-1500 potentially on that kind of thing is worth it, or if it's sensible to attempt such a thing on a driveway. If it can wait until the summer then it's more viable I guess.
So, to summarise:
- Try and resolve the oil leak
- Keep an eye on the DMF
- Tailgate handle is sticking
- Tyres will, at some point, need sorting
- Tracking/steering is out. Could be bush/suspension to sort, but otherwise drives fine
- Front brakes will need doing eventually, but they are still fine for now
- Need to sort the centre console and a few bits of trim
- Need to investigate the blower motor issue
- Need to find out what the issue with the parking sensors is
- Check if the DVD stuff works and potentially tidy up the wiring
Good bits so far:
- Nice spec and has good history. Both remotes work
- Drove lovely and clutch seemed to be fine
- Seemed to have great fuel economy
- Looks well, but for some small bits on close inspection
- A/C apparently works, but hard to tell at this time of year
- Engine sounded good and exhaust would appear to be fine
- Has indication of a couple of timing belt changes (135k/2016 and, allegedly, 175k/2019 ish)
Granted, I could have paid a bit more and maybe not had these issues, but I think it's chance you take with anything like this. I could probably sort most, if not all, the problems and be in for around £3k, but the DMF and oil leak has the potentially to cost more than the car if I pay someone else to sort it, so we'll see.
Should be plenty to do to make an interesting ownership thread I guess - lots of 'issues' to tackle that can hopefully make for an interesting read. I'm open to any experience/hints on the subject!
Edited by motorbloke on Monday 26th October 12:46
Edited by motorbloke on Monday 26th October 12:47
rob_golfgti said:
Before you spend time removing the rear bumper, check the replacement sensor is genuine. I used a aftermarket one and the system didn’t accept it. Went with genuine in the end.
Thanks - I've held it in my hands but not inspected it yet. I have no real assertion that is the problem, only the word of a seller who (on the balance of things) was likely to be selective with the truth. Not necessarily out of the ordinary, but "it only needs fitting" is often not that clear cut!It's not a big priority though.
Courtesy of Caffyn's this morning:
One of those parts that's apparently cheaper brand new and genuine, rather than second hand.
Looks like they are often missing and can be nabbed without much effort, unfortunately, so I don't know why it was missing but I hope it doesn't happen again.
One of those parts that's apparently cheaper brand new and genuine, rather than second hand.
Looks like they are often missing and can be nabbed without much effort, unfortunately, so I don't know why it was missing but I hope it doesn't happen again.
motorbloke said:
Thanks - I've held it in my hands but not inspected it yet. I have no real assertion that is the problem, only the word of a seller who (on the balance of things) was likely to be selective with the truth. Not necessarily out of the ordinary, but "it only needs fitting" is often not that clear cut!
It's not a big priority though.
You can hear each sensor clicking so if one isn’t, you know that’s the problem. It's not a big priority though.
The oil pumps are driven off the crank from memory, that will probably be the source of your leak. Best dealt with as part of a timing belt change.
https://youtu.be/GF5jclEsLGM
https://youtu.be/GF5jclEsLGM
Edited by KnackeredOldBanger on Monday 26th October 19:30
The D5 in my V70 leaked oil. It did it for the 70000 miles I owned it. Never actually dripped past the under tray so I never fixed it.
When an engine is 300000 miles old like mine was there was a significant threat I'd just break something expensive (injector hard lines spring to mind) trying to fix a £1 o ring or gasket. Used to get noted as an advisory on the MOT but that's about it so that's why I ignored it.
My under tray was also bodged on with a few cable ties.
When an engine is 300000 miles old like mine was there was a significant threat I'd just break something expensive (injector hard lines spring to mind) trying to fix a £1 o ring or gasket. Used to get noted as an advisory on the MOT but that's about it so that's why I ignored it.
My under tray was also bodged on with a few cable ties.
I have one of these and they're great. Only use it once a week if that and it's either to the train station or a 300 mile round trip fully loaded and the only issue I have with it is a ABS light is now on.
Not sure if you'd be interested but I fitted an aftermarket headunit and previously it had a GROM-MST3 fitted to it. (Replaces the CD unit basically and allows you to play music via USB/ your phone connected to it.
No idea what they go for second hand but you're more than welcome to have it on the cheap.
Not sure if you'd be interested but I fitted an aftermarket headunit and previously it had a GROM-MST3 fitted to it. (Replaces the CD unit basically and allows you to play music via USB/ your phone connected to it.
No idea what they go for second hand but you're more than welcome to have it on the cheap.
rob_golfgti said:
You can hear each sensor clicking so if one isn’t, you know that’s the problem.
Had a quick check and the 'new' one is a Volvo one
They seem to retail at around £80 each, which is rather brutal. I did check for the clicking, but a couldn't hear anything. A bit of research suggested that if one is faulty, they all turn off
KnackeredOldBanger said:
The oil pumps are driven off the crank from memory, that will probably be the source of your leak. Best dealt with as part of a timing belt change.
https://youtu.be/GF5jclEsLGM
Yeah I think it's probably it. I'd seen that video and it seems to line up.https://youtu.be/GF5jclEsLGM
Edited by KnackeredOldBanger on Monday 26th October 19:30
If I do that, it'll be the 3rd timing belt change in 4 years!
MC Bodge said:
I've always thought that these were interesting cars.
Lowering the suspension by 50mm might improve the road handling and make it more estate/less SUV.
I think it would lose the appeal if the height and ride were compromised.Lowering the suspension by 50mm might improve the road handling and make it more estate/less SUV.
ChocolateFrog said:
The D5 in my V70 leaked oil. It did it for the 70000 miles I owned it. Never actually dripped past the under tray so I never fixed it.
When an engine is 300000 miles old like mine was there was a significant threat I'd just break something expensive (injector hard lines spring to mind) trying to fix a £1 o ring or gasket. Used to get noted as an advisory on the MOT but that's about it so that's why I ignored it.
My under tray was also bodged on with a few cable ties.
It would be nice if it could be 'managed' until the weather/daylight improves, but I won't be popular if it is actively leaking oil onto the floor. Will have a look on the weekend and scope it out a bit.When an engine is 300000 miles old like mine was there was a significant threat I'd just break something expensive (injector hard lines spring to mind) trying to fix a £1 o ring or gasket. Used to get noted as an advisory on the MOT but that's about it so that's why I ignored it.
My under tray was also bodged on with a few cable ties.
S100HP said:
The blower playing up will most likely be the blower resistor. I've changed one on my previous V70 for similar symptoms. Worth a dig on that.
Good work OP. Brave. I like these, always have done.
I had a look at that, as it was one of the answers, and it seemed (in my inference) that it would be the symptom if the motor speed didn't change but the indicator on the a/c controls did. I'm not sure if it's the same, but when you turn the knob the lights don't react (least not for 99/100 attempts).Good work OP. Brave. I like these, always have done.
rich12 said:
I have one of these and they're great. Only use it once a week if that and it's either to the train station or a 300 mile round trip fully loaded and the only issue I have with it is a ABS light is now on.
Not sure if you'd be interested but I fitted an aftermarket headunit and previously it had a GROM-MST3 fitted to it. (Replaces the CD unit basically and allows you to play music via USB/ your phone connected to it.
No idea what they go for second hand but you're more than welcome to have it on the cheap.
I've looked at these before from when I had a C30 (as options were all but limited to the GROM) but I recall the cost being prohibitive. Not sure if you'd be interested but I fitted an aftermarket headunit and previously it had a GROM-MST3 fitted to it. (Replaces the CD unit basically and allows you to play music via USB/ your phone connected to it.
No idea what they go for second hand but you're more than welcome to have it on the cheap.
I'd certainly be interested in adding that functionality - let me know what you're thinking, if you're happy to do so?
hman said:
Oil leak on my d5 was the rocker cover
Buying a manual xc90 makes no sense - you need 3 legs to do a hill start!
I wouldn't rule out multiple sources on this, such is the state of the block. I've ordered some 'Elbow Grease' to hopefully help ease the clean up, then we'll see what was old and what is current!Buying a manual xc90 makes no sense - you need 3 legs to do a hill start!
I know what you mean about the footbrake issue - I believe the process is to right foot brake, left foot footbrake, neutral, footbrake off... then clutch down, find your gear and biting point, then right hand release.
The one off-putting thing is the harsh 'thunk' it makes when the handbrake is released. Not subtle at all!
I had a quick scan of the modules yesterday - unfortunately there wasn't an option to scan the alarm/parking module (at the mercy of needing to get a VIDA/DICE for that now) but I had a look at the CEM and PCM:
Just the ECM-6100 staying for now, so maybe the cooling fan works, maybe it doesn't! maybe it works a bit but not fully.
All of these cleared out of the CEM and didn't return.
Last dealer service was, I think, 8 years ago - so there's a chance that it had 8 years worth of pending in it. I think the battery had run flat over lockdown at least, so that could explain some of the odd CEM ones (as it the way canbus seems to react to low voltages).
Another thing to keep an eye on, perhaps.
Just the ECM-6100 staying for now, so maybe the cooling fan works, maybe it doesn't! maybe it works a bit but not fully.
All of these cleared out of the CEM and didn't return.
Last dealer service was, I think, 8 years ago - so there's a chance that it had 8 years worth of pending in it. I think the battery had run flat over lockdown at least, so that could explain some of the odd CEM ones (as it the way canbus seems to react to low voltages).
Another thing to keep an eye on, perhaps.
I had one of these for a few years, 54 plate - it went to the scrap yard in the end.
As I am sure you know, they aren't 4x4, they are front wheel drive with a rear diff that is activated by a Haldex unit if it feels the front wheels slipping.
The control box (fag packet sized) on mine failed. It lives by the rear diff. Volvo will sell you another one, but it costs £1800, before you then try to get it electronically married to the car.
This process failed on my car, because the Volvo computer couldn't see around the network. So I accepted it was a 2WD car. However, the warning on the dash was an MOT fail. I got away with it once.
The ICE system then also failed - it came on for 3 seconds and then turned itself off. Apparently the main unit isn't in the dash, but is in the roof at the rear of the car, and again the Volvo computer couldn't see around the CANBUS network.
Then my local MOT tester retired and we just scrapped it.
Now living happily with 18-20 year old Saab estates - they seem to be far less complex and far less expensive to run.
Good luck with yours. I mean it sincerely, as they are nice cars.
As I am sure you know, they aren't 4x4, they are front wheel drive with a rear diff that is activated by a Haldex unit if it feels the front wheels slipping.
The control box (fag packet sized) on mine failed. It lives by the rear diff. Volvo will sell you another one, but it costs £1800, before you then try to get it electronically married to the car.
This process failed on my car, because the Volvo computer couldn't see around the network. So I accepted it was a 2WD car. However, the warning on the dash was an MOT fail. I got away with it once.
The ICE system then also failed - it came on for 3 seconds and then turned itself off. Apparently the main unit isn't in the dash, but is in the roof at the rear of the car, and again the Volvo computer couldn't see around the CANBUS network.
Then my local MOT tester retired and we just scrapped it.
Now living happily with 18-20 year old Saab estates - they seem to be far less complex and far less expensive to run.
Good luck with yours. I mean it sincerely, as they are nice cars.
They are robust old buses, and having had an old one (2006) and now a 2013 version, I'm officially an old codger Volvo nerd with about 100k miles traveled in them.
Get that oil leak sorted asap of its the oil pump seal. They can fail sharpish and splash oil over the belt. Oil pressure will drop immediately and the belt may skip several teeth. Game over for the engine...
As for the manual v auto debate, I know that horse has bolted, but a rebuild of the older aisin box is about the same price as a new dmf and clutch for the manual. And it really does suit an auto. Sorry.
Handling and tyre wear. Most of the bushes are a complete
to change, but can be picked up cheaper if you buy the ford equivalent. Ford also did uprated/modified versions and they really are good. Even gen ford bushes are cheaper than non branded ovlov and mucho cheaper than gen ovlov ones. This will transform the handling and well worth doing. Also worth buying the polybush 'inserts' for the front subframe bushes. Makes a huge difference and also enables the car to be tracked properly.
These xc90's are very sensitive to tyres and tracking. Do a search on the Volvo forums for tyre recommendations. I have had great success with khumo krugen, GT radial sportactive and pirelli scorpion Verde. But some others I tried literally got taken off after a week (looking at you Mr Dunlop and cheap Chinese ditchfinders). It has to have a bloody strong sidewall carcass or it's like jelly.
Fuel economy... You can get 35mpg reliably if you drive gentle on A roads or motorways. As soon as you hit stop start then it will drop to 28mpg. Or just say fk it and drive how you want and it will average 26-28mpg no matter what.
Get that oil leak sorted asap of its the oil pump seal. They can fail sharpish and splash oil over the belt. Oil pressure will drop immediately and the belt may skip several teeth. Game over for the engine...
As for the manual v auto debate, I know that horse has bolted, but a rebuild of the older aisin box is about the same price as a new dmf and clutch for the manual. And it really does suit an auto. Sorry.
Handling and tyre wear. Most of the bushes are a complete
to change, but can be picked up cheaper if you buy the ford equivalent. Ford also did uprated/modified versions and they really are good. Even gen ford bushes are cheaper than non branded ovlov and mucho cheaper than gen ovlov ones. This will transform the handling and well worth doing. Also worth buying the polybush 'inserts' for the front subframe bushes. Makes a huge difference and also enables the car to be tracked properly.These xc90's are very sensitive to tyres and tracking. Do a search on the Volvo forums for tyre recommendations. I have had great success with khumo krugen, GT radial sportactive and pirelli scorpion Verde. But some others I tried literally got taken off after a week (looking at you Mr Dunlop and cheap Chinese ditchfinders). It has to have a bloody strong sidewall carcass or it's like jelly.
Fuel economy... You can get 35mpg reliably if you drive gentle on A roads or motorways. As soon as you hit stop start then it will drop to 28mpg. Or just say f
k it and drive how you want and it will average 26-28mpg no matter what. 
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff