Am I Brave Enought? 2009 L322 TDV8
Discussion
Bought unseen apart from collection day, I give you the L322 facelift. I spent about a month watching ebay. I found what seemed a bargain non facelift 2008 with similar mileage but it was suffering badly from corrosion, and the sellers story didn't stack up. He wanted £3600 but I wouldn't budge from £3400 and walked away, no working stereo for one thing but a year's mot. Sills can cost a grand a side to get fixed, eventually these are all going to rust away by the look of it. I did deliberate getting the 4.4, but DPF and they seem to have their own issues. I found one for £10,800 with 90k on an 11 plate, but having driven the 3.6 I am happy enough and 30mpg was acheivable before EGR delete.
This was a private sale, seemed to be legit and the guy had it for 2 years and spent plenty on it.
£90k new back in the glorious days when an iPod was state of the art, £7,400 secured it from ebay. SE with double glazing, brand new front screen, druggie tints and sprayed black wheels. The tint were useful in the bright winter sunshine, I can live with it. 5 owners, most of whom seem to have maintained it at no expense.
I have some arch corrosion, and one sill is a bit crumbly but I will treat with Hammerite and Krust in whatever way is suggested by the internet to prolong life. Tailgate has a rust bubble 5cm long under the paint and a bit on the edge. Not too bad.
Seller had bought a flat and this wouldn't fit in the underground car parking. Mind you it was pretty filthy with kids sticky sweets and chips everywhere, he was getting divorced I think it was used for a kids play area on dads visits. It has grey perforated leather, which I thought would wear better than ivory. Sadly not.
140k with a reciept for new turbos for £3.6k. Just had the lower intercooler hose done, £800 omg what have I done. Drives so smoothly, only done 50 miles in it so far so not a lot of time to find the issues! New Scorpions on it too, £800 retail so I think it was a great buy if it doesn't go bang.
3 months MOT uh oh, seller just could't be bothered to do it and I can't see what it will fail on. The EML light came on I was told about this, EGR left bank. I have ordered a blanking kit and might get a map with the EGR's deleted. My bluetooth dongle and the Torque app cleared the code, the EML doesn't seem to affect performance until you stop. Then just reset.
Driver seat stopped moving as soon as I got home, it did move when I tested it! Stuck in fully reversed position, so I couldn't get to the bolts to the seat. Wondered if it was the switch, pulled the connector off the motor and pushed the other connectors home and it has sprung back into life. The steering column fully adjusts, I hear you can get this mapped out with IID might do that when I get hold of a tool. I felt a real sense of relief at this as it is an MOT failure.
The steering wheel has lost its plastic top layer I think, I have cleaned it got a lot of filth out but left without a shiny finish in parts (lots of them!).
I went to collect it in a Model 3 Performance, which made me want to puke. Nice slow waft back home from the purchase in this, of course I am in an unfamiliar powerful car with double galzing in a 30 and get zapped by a mobile speed camera. I think I was just under the limit.
The reversing camera is quite good, I had heard horror stories. No leaks. Adaptive cruise is an interesting feature, braking to what seems a standstill. Everything works....at the moment. Oh apart from the EML light.
My 987 Boxster is incredible, but lowered and a pain in the work car park this will be far better for station/school trips as well. Cheap to insure, less so to tax.
This was a private sale, seemed to be legit and the guy had it for 2 years and spent plenty on it.
£90k new back in the glorious days when an iPod was state of the art, £7,400 secured it from ebay. SE with double glazing, brand new front screen, druggie tints and sprayed black wheels. The tint were useful in the bright winter sunshine, I can live with it. 5 owners, most of whom seem to have maintained it at no expense.
I have some arch corrosion, and one sill is a bit crumbly but I will treat with Hammerite and Krust in whatever way is suggested by the internet to prolong life. Tailgate has a rust bubble 5cm long under the paint and a bit on the edge. Not too bad.
Seller had bought a flat and this wouldn't fit in the underground car parking. Mind you it was pretty filthy with kids sticky sweets and chips everywhere, he was getting divorced I think it was used for a kids play area on dads visits. It has grey perforated leather, which I thought would wear better than ivory. Sadly not.
140k with a reciept for new turbos for £3.6k. Just had the lower intercooler hose done, £800 omg what have I done. Drives so smoothly, only done 50 miles in it so far so not a lot of time to find the issues! New Scorpions on it too, £800 retail so I think it was a great buy if it doesn't go bang.
3 months MOT uh oh, seller just could't be bothered to do it and I can't see what it will fail on. The EML light came on I was told about this, EGR left bank. I have ordered a blanking kit and might get a map with the EGR's deleted. My bluetooth dongle and the Torque app cleared the code, the EML doesn't seem to affect performance until you stop. Then just reset.
Driver seat stopped moving as soon as I got home, it did move when I tested it! Stuck in fully reversed position, so I couldn't get to the bolts to the seat. Wondered if it was the switch, pulled the connector off the motor and pushed the other connectors home and it has sprung back into life. The steering column fully adjusts, I hear you can get this mapped out with IID might do that when I get hold of a tool. I felt a real sense of relief at this as it is an MOT failure.
The steering wheel has lost its plastic top layer I think, I have cleaned it got a lot of filth out but left without a shiny finish in parts (lots of them!).
I went to collect it in a Model 3 Performance, which made me want to puke. Nice slow waft back home from the purchase in this, of course I am in an unfamiliar powerful car with double galzing in a 30 and get zapped by a mobile speed camera. I think I was just under the limit.
The reversing camera is quite good, I had heard horror stories. No leaks. Adaptive cruise is an interesting feature, braking to what seems a standstill. Everything works....at the moment. Oh apart from the EML light.
My 987 Boxster is incredible, but lowered and a pain in the work car park this will be far better for station/school trips as well. Cheap to insure, less so to tax.
ChocolateFrog said:
The wheels and to a lesser extent the tints ruin it.
Agreed, its too dark stock would look far better. PrinceRupert said:
"seller just could't be bothered to do it"
Do you believe that one?
Also, do cars this new really have rusty arches and sills?!
Good luck, suspect you might need it ...
Yeah the 2010-2012 ones like this seem to have used grotty Tata steel. The seller got the MOT done with his last service, I half believed him. He had wrtitten a terrible ebay advert, either clever or foolish. Do you believe that one?
Also, do cars this new really have rusty arches and sills?!
Good luck, suspect you might need it ...
K50 DEL said:
Lovely purchase but I fear you're dreaming if you think you'll see anywhere near 30mpg, I have the smaller engine in the smaller car (3.0 TDV6 RRS) and over the last 17k miles I've averaged 25mpg at best.
30 was on a run back from Wellingborough to Hatfield at sedate speeds, 20's will be more like it for the short trips we make they are supposed to be terrible when cold mpg wise. I really don't like the smoked domed sidelights either. Still it was a cheap TDV8, if I got the 4.4 and spent say £12k and the engine went bang would be £10k out of pocket with this lower risk to my wallet. Gone into this with realistic wallet emptying expectations.
I have looked into the BAS remap with an IID tool, its about £250 for an egr delete and £550 for a remap. My local remapper charges £250, and a mobile guy can do it for £145, egr plus map. The mobile guy said I don't need to blank the egrs, although I have blanked them as belt and braces in case of an erg collapse unlikely as that may be and I had bought the kit after he told me this.
Anyway it is done, Belt and braces, if I don't get a warning light I might not bother with a remap. My first experience under the bonnet/guillotine as the gas struts were screwed. Just got some to sort. Forgot to drop the suspension when working under the hood.
When I had put everything back together I tried starting it, after the last flat battery I was a bit paranoid. Oh dear, engine system malfunction and the dash (TFT) dimmed to nothing after every system warning light came on. This car is making me paranoid. So the battery might be on the way out, anyway I had an old school car charger which revived it however I now learn it is an AGM battery and these chargers ruin them. So new Lidl charger is on order, and I am considering a new AGM battery in the largest size that can fit an 020 rather than the 019 that is fitted. The current battery looks old and tired, but I had opened the doors a lot cleaning it and this fires up all sorts of ecus so it might have just been this.
My wife reminded me we had a 986 S and a P38 4.6 in 2005. History is repeating itself with this Range Rover and my 987 Boxster.
I guess it is time to start using it, after the last flat battery feeling nervous about it stranding me with another flat battery going to keep a spare and some jump leads in the boot.
Anyway it is done, Belt and braces, if I don't get a warning light I might not bother with a remap. My first experience under the bonnet/guillotine as the gas struts were screwed. Just got some to sort. Forgot to drop the suspension when working under the hood.
When I had put everything back together I tried starting it, after the last flat battery I was a bit paranoid. Oh dear, engine system malfunction and the dash (TFT) dimmed to nothing after every system warning light came on. This car is making me paranoid. So the battery might be on the way out, anyway I had an old school car charger which revived it however I now learn it is an AGM battery and these chargers ruin them. So new Lidl charger is on order, and I am considering a new AGM battery in the largest size that can fit an 020 rather than the 019 that is fitted. The current battery looks old and tired, but I had opened the doors a lot cleaning it and this fires up all sorts of ecus so it might have just been this.
My wife reminded me we had a 986 S and a P38 4.6 in 2005. History is repeating itself with this Range Rover and my 987 Boxster.
I guess it is time to start using it, after the last flat battery feeling nervous about it stranding me with another flat battery going to keep a spare and some jump leads in the boot.
I can offer you a few tips as I have a 2006 'half' facelift as my daily driver (>2 years now) that may or may not be of use to you. Mine is 4.4L petrol though (I figured less to go wrong!). They are great cars if you get a good one.
iCarsoft is good for these if you need a good diagnostics device that doesn't cost the earth. I have mine in car at all times.
You would not believe the 'christmas tree' lights and warnings that can appear from a struggling battery on a cold day - even one that appears to crank the car no problem. Other weird things can happen too - steering column motors doing weird things, gearbox smoothness. All from slightly low voltage. It would be one of the first things I'd buy.
My car has the MOST fibre optics entertainment setup. If you have this it's worth bypassing / unplugging as much of that old junk in the boot as possible - especially if something seems faulty or water damaged. Bluetooth, navigation, CD changer all power unplugged. You then need to buy MOST bypass loops for the fibre optic part off eBay for cheap so the headunit still works. You can't just unplug individual items - you need to keep a loop going as everything is wired in series.
If there are no power 'leaks' and a good battery, I've left mine for over 4 weeks and it started first crank of the starter when I returned.
I'd be shocked if the boot was totally dry - check the left boot compartment with CD changer and ECU etc in, and check boot floor under spare wheel. They all do it.
Check condition of brake lines for corrosion.
Do the sunroof 'reset' to make sure thats sitting properly.
The steering wheel moves into position when key inserted / removed I believe but you can disable this and probably should to save the motor from wear.
Worth servicing the gearbox, transfer box and front / rear diffs if not done recently. Rimmer Bros is good for parts and makes it easy to decide OEM or pattern parts, etc (other companies do exist). Gearbox is standard ZF - plenty support online. You can service yourself if you have diagnostics to read the gearbox temp to fill it correctly.
iCarsoft is good for these if you need a good diagnostics device that doesn't cost the earth. I have mine in car at all times.
You would not believe the 'christmas tree' lights and warnings that can appear from a struggling battery on a cold day - even one that appears to crank the car no problem. Other weird things can happen too - steering column motors doing weird things, gearbox smoothness. All from slightly low voltage. It would be one of the first things I'd buy.
My car has the MOST fibre optics entertainment setup. If you have this it's worth bypassing / unplugging as much of that old junk in the boot as possible - especially if something seems faulty or water damaged. Bluetooth, navigation, CD changer all power unplugged. You then need to buy MOST bypass loops for the fibre optic part off eBay for cheap so the headunit still works. You can't just unplug individual items - you need to keep a loop going as everything is wired in series.
If there are no power 'leaks' and a good battery, I've left mine for over 4 weeks and it started first crank of the starter when I returned.
I'd be shocked if the boot was totally dry - check the left boot compartment with CD changer and ECU etc in, and check boot floor under spare wheel. They all do it.
Check condition of brake lines for corrosion.
Do the sunroof 'reset' to make sure thats sitting properly.
The steering wheel moves into position when key inserted / removed I believe but you can disable this and probably should to save the motor from wear.
Worth servicing the gearbox, transfer box and front / rear diffs if not done recently. Rimmer Bros is good for parts and makes it easy to decide OEM or pattern parts, etc (other companies do exist). Gearbox is standard ZF - plenty support online. You can service yourself if you have diagnostics to read the gearbox temp to fill it correctly.
mmcd87 said:
iCarsoft is good for these if you need a good diagnostics device that doesn't cost the earth. I have mine in car at all times.
It would be one of the first things I'd buy.
My car has the MOST fibre optics entertainment setup.
If there are no power 'leaks' and a good battery, I've left mine for over 4 weeks and it started first crank of the starter when I returned.
I'd be shocked if the boot was totally dry - check the left boot compartment with CD changer and ECU etc in, and check boot floor under spare wheel. They all do it.
Check condition of brake lines for corrosion.
Do the sunroof 'reset' to make sure thats sitting properly.
The steering wheel moves into position when key inserted / removed I believe but you can disable this and probably should to save the motor from wear.
Worth servicing the gearbox, transfer box and front / rear diffs if not done recently. Rimmer Bros is good for parts and makes it easy to decide OEM or pattern parts, etc (other companies do exist). Gearbox is standard ZF - plenty support online. You can service yourself if you have diagnostics to read the gearbox temp to fill it correctly.
Thanks MCCD87. Will have a think about iCarsoft vs IID, if I did splash out on the IID it would have a resale value I suppose.It would be one of the first things I'd buy.
My car has the MOST fibre optics entertainment setup.
If there are no power 'leaks' and a good battery, I've left mine for over 4 weeks and it started first crank of the starter when I returned.
I'd be shocked if the boot was totally dry - check the left boot compartment with CD changer and ECU etc in, and check boot floor under spare wheel. They all do it.
Check condition of brake lines for corrosion.
Do the sunroof 'reset' to make sure thats sitting properly.
The steering wheel moves into position when key inserted / removed I believe but you can disable this and probably should to save the motor from wear.
Worth servicing the gearbox, transfer box and front / rear diffs if not done recently. Rimmer Bros is good for parts and makes it easy to decide OEM or pattern parts, etc (other companies do exist). Gearbox is standard ZF - plenty support online. You can service yourself if you have diagnostics to read the gearbox temp to fill it correctly.
Other bits noted, not sure if I have MOST or not as I have a facelift. I am planning on throwing the 987 into the drive with a winter cover and putting the L322 in the garage to keep the boot dry. It was very slightly damp. Gearbox was recently serviced, diffs will check paperwork.
Sometimes you just need to be brave and buy one. Internet is full of horror stories but get the right one, or be prepared to sort out issues and make it a decent one, then you will be okay.
Looking forward to reading more as Im skirting around the idea of getting one myself. :-)
Does the 3.6 / 4.4 engine mean a body off job if you need to replace the turbos ?
Simon
Looking forward to reading more as Im skirting around the idea of getting one myself. :-)
Does the 3.6 / 4.4 engine mean a body off job if you need to replace the turbos ?
Simon
sbk1972 said:
Sometimes you just need to be brave and buy one. Internet is full of horror stories but get the right one, or be prepared to sort out issues and make it a decent one, then you will be okay.
Looking forward to reading more as Im skirting around the idea of getting one myself. :-)
Does the 3.6 / 4.4 engine mean a body off job if you need to replace the turbos ?
Simon
You’d never buy anything if you read internet forums. People are naturally negative nowadays. These are never body off, Range Rover SPORT is for that work i believe on same age of car.Looking forward to reading more as Im skirting around the idea of getting one myself. :-)
Does the 3.6 / 4.4 engine mean a body off job if you need to replace the turbos ?
Simon
I doubt they are much more complex than modern stuff, only thing i find is the size and weight of the thing can make it intimidating to work on - you can drive it onto sleepers to safely get height you need though for example. Plenty pattern parts and used spares too.
I own a Ml55. When I did my usual internet research I couldnt find 1 review that was positive but I still brought it. 5 years later and I still love it. Ownership of that type of truck means I need to fix and maintain more than a Toyota but the positives out weight the negatives.
I quite like the wheels and the tints, I feel I need to apologise for that :-)
Keep us updated and pics !!!
I quite like the wheels and the tints, I feel I need to apologise for that :-)
Keep us updated and pics !!!
sbk1972 said:
I own a Ml55. When I did my usual internet research I couldnt find 1 review that was positive but I still brought it. 5 years later and I still love it. Ownership of that type of truck means I need to fix and maintain more than a Toyota but the positives out weight the negatives.
I quite like the wheels and the tints, I feel I need to apologise for that :-)
Keep us updated and pics !!!
Understandable I quite like the wheels and the tints, I feel I need to apologise for that :-)
Keep us updated and pics !!!
So I bought the RR at the beginning of December and not used it since, partly due to my paranoia about it breaking down and partly because couldn't be bothered to tax it while my Boxster is still on the road.
I have blanked the EGR valves. Some debate if I needed to do this if they are still working as they can be closed and mapped out, found someone who will map the car and delete the EGRs for £150. Not bought a diagnostic tool yet but will have to at some point, iCarsoft or IID Gap tool but a £300 difference in price not made my decision yet.
Aldi special charger bought to top up the AGM battery, having just realised the 1970's battery charger I was using was slowly killing it. Might get a new battery and add the old one to the fuse board in the boot. When you open a door a shedload of ecus fire up and drain the battery, been murder keeping it charged but now have a Bluetooth battery monitor for a bit more piece of mind.
The drivers heated/cooled seat does not work, £300 for a new part and is a right pain to get out. The leather feels horrible cold so a cheap heated seat cover has been fitted as a temporary fix.
Need to look at the parking sensors, might have to take the front bumper off to reseat one.
It fits in the garage with about 3 inches to spare, so built a bump stop out of wood to prevent taking out the wall when I reverse in. Water ingress in the boot is a worry hence the garage.
Rustproofing was commenced on the sills and rear arches. The arches have a double skin, which fills with mud, prevents water from escaping and stays damp hence why so many of these have rot. Mine had lots of surface corrosion but is solid. Clean, blow, suck, grind, rustproofer, paint, wax inject. Hopefully this will extend the life of the car somewhat although I can't get inside the sills much but will try to coat with rustproofer and wax . The subframes also rot from the inside out so I am wax injecting these too.
The RR has a fuel burning heater but I had no remote, at least £200 on ebay. A 12v Sonoff WiFi switch (white rectangle box) sorted this and to add a remote is about a fiver. The second battery will go under the floor here too.
I guess this is why L405's are aluminium. The worst rust is under the seam sealer., but you can't see it!
I have blanked the EGR valves. Some debate if I needed to do this if they are still working as they can be closed and mapped out, found someone who will map the car and delete the EGRs for £150. Not bought a diagnostic tool yet but will have to at some point, iCarsoft or IID Gap tool but a £300 difference in price not made my decision yet.
Aldi special charger bought to top up the AGM battery, having just realised the 1970's battery charger I was using was slowly killing it. Might get a new battery and add the old one to the fuse board in the boot. When you open a door a shedload of ecus fire up and drain the battery, been murder keeping it charged but now have a Bluetooth battery monitor for a bit more piece of mind.
The drivers heated/cooled seat does not work, £300 for a new part and is a right pain to get out. The leather feels horrible cold so a cheap heated seat cover has been fitted as a temporary fix.
Need to look at the parking sensors, might have to take the front bumper off to reseat one.
It fits in the garage with about 3 inches to spare, so built a bump stop out of wood to prevent taking out the wall when I reverse in. Water ingress in the boot is a worry hence the garage.
Rustproofing was commenced on the sills and rear arches. The arches have a double skin, which fills with mud, prevents water from escaping and stays damp hence why so many of these have rot. Mine had lots of surface corrosion but is solid. Clean, blow, suck, grind, rustproofer, paint, wax inject. Hopefully this will extend the life of the car somewhat although I can't get inside the sills much but will try to coat with rustproofer and wax . The subframes also rot from the inside out so I am wax injecting these too.
The RR has a fuel burning heater but I had no remote, at least £200 on ebay. A 12v Sonoff WiFi switch (white rectangle box) sorted this and to add a remote is about a fiver. The second battery will go under the floor here too.
I guess this is why L405's are aluminium. The worst rust is under the seam sealer., but you can't see it!
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