1968 series 2a Land Rover
Discussion
Been wanting a series 2 for a long time, it is potentially the worst time for me to be buying one but this came up and I couldn’t say no.
One family owner from new, 44k miles, very original and pretty much every piece of paperwork from new - including original invoice.
Trailered home and been using it the last few days, sadly broken down twice on me already.
First time it just refused to crank, like a flat battery - dash lit up but nothing from the key.
After leaving for a few minutes it fired up fine.
Second time was slightly worse, was cranking over slowly but wouldn’t catch. Tried a bump start but nothing.
Had to go home and get another car as had my elderly neighbour with me, took him home and went back.
Checked the carb float and was full of crud, the glass fuel pump bowl was also quite dirty. I disconnected the fuel line off the carb and pumped a load of fuel through. Reconnected it and it fired straight up.
Using it today and it keeps dropping down to 3, then picking up again.
I have managed to get all the lights working, need to sort horn, wipers and dash lights. Heater is perfect!
I have ordered a full service kit - including plugs and leads, tempted to get a new stater and fuel pump too. It has recently had the brakes and carb overhauled.
Also going to add an inline fuel filter, desperately need new tyres as these are 30 years old - but want to get it running better first.
First job was to remove the ripped canvas and very bent frame.
Has anyone got any tips on cleaning up galvanised? I’ve managed to straighten a lot of the frame and going to order a new canvas.
Passenger front outrigger has a rust hole and both internal footwell panels, apart from that chassis seems good and bulkhead quite solid.
One family owner from new, 44k miles, very original and pretty much every piece of paperwork from new - including original invoice.
Trailered home and been using it the last few days, sadly broken down twice on me already.
First time it just refused to crank, like a flat battery - dash lit up but nothing from the key.
After leaving for a few minutes it fired up fine.
Second time was slightly worse, was cranking over slowly but wouldn’t catch. Tried a bump start but nothing.
Had to go home and get another car as had my elderly neighbour with me, took him home and went back.
Checked the carb float and was full of crud, the glass fuel pump bowl was also quite dirty. I disconnected the fuel line off the carb and pumped a load of fuel through. Reconnected it and it fired straight up.
Using it today and it keeps dropping down to 3, then picking up again.
I have managed to get all the lights working, need to sort horn, wipers and dash lights. Heater is perfect!
I have ordered a full service kit - including plugs and leads, tempted to get a new stater and fuel pump too. It has recently had the brakes and carb overhauled.
Also going to add an inline fuel filter, desperately need new tyres as these are 30 years old - but want to get it running better first.
First job was to remove the ripped canvas and very bent frame.
Has anyone got any tips on cleaning up galvanised? I’ve managed to straighten a lot of the frame and going to order a new canvas.
Passenger front outrigger has a rust hole and both internal footwell panels, apart from that chassis seems good and bulkhead quite solid.
Tank was replaced 3 years ago so shouldn’t be too bad. Has sat for the last 18months, also I pulled it home a fair distance on a Rattly trailer and I also brimmed the fuel tank - so it’s probably dislodged a load of crud.
Will give everything a good clean and rinse through.
The engine is filthy, thick in all sorts of oil and grease, bought a few types of degreaser so going to clean it all up before diving into the mechanicals - just looking at it currently makes you filthy
Will give everything a good clean and rinse through.
The engine is filthy, thick in all sorts of oil and grease, bought a few types of degreaser so going to clean it all up before diving into the mechanicals - just looking at it currently makes you filthy
Ah, that's great! The Series do look "proper" with the lights in the grille panel.
On the dead starting, if you have jump leads with you, you can use them to bypass the main earth strap, or main cable to the starter etc, and both narrow down if one of them is the weak link, and hopefully also get it to crank.
I've had battery cables corroded inside where the terminals are fitted to the ends present exactly like a low or flat battery in the way you're describing.
On the dead starting, if you have jump leads with you, you can use them to bypass the main earth strap, or main cable to the starter etc, and both narrow down if one of them is the weak link, and hopefully also get it to crank.
I've had battery cables corroded inside where the terminals are fitted to the ends present exactly like a low or flat battery in the way you're describing.
Worth going through the ignition bits like condenser, contact breaker etc, quality of most parts is s
t now so I'd restrict purchases to Distributor Doctor or other reputable source. Given a new tank was fitted such a short time ago fitting one of those disposable inline filters may be enough to deal with the grot. While you're fitting new plugs and leads it's worth checking the valve clearances and then replacing the rocker cover gasket, which is likely the source of all the oily dirt.
t now so I'd restrict purchases to Distributor Doctor or other reputable source. Given a new tank was fitted such a short time ago fitting one of those disposable inline filters may be enough to deal with the grot. While you're fitting new plugs and leads it's worth checking the valve clearances and then replacing the rocker cover gasket, which is likely the source of all the oily dirt.Nice, must be one of the last made with the lights in the middle before they moved outboard to the wings on the late 2a's. I'm sure I have 1968 in my head as the year that they moved.
Give it a full service and I'm sure it'll start running better. If the starter is dodgy then perhaps it's just worth checking the earth connections. I'm sure they'd moved to negative-earth by 1968.
This is my '62, undergoing various work at the moment.
Give it a full service and I'm sure it'll start running better. If the starter is dodgy then perhaps it's just worth checking the earth connections. I'm sure they'd moved to negative-earth by 1968.
This is my '62, undergoing various work at the moment.
Muddle238 said:
Nice, must be one of the last made with the lights in the middle before they moved outboard to the wings on the late 2a's. I'm sure I have 1968 in my head as the year that they moved.
Give it a full service and I'm sure it'll start running better. If the starter is dodgy then perhaps it's just worth checking the earth connections. I'm sure they'd moved to negative-earth by 1968.
Lights moved to wings in Spring '68 for certain export markets, Feb '69 for the remainder. Rover saloons started moving to -ve earth '66 / '67 and, presumably, LR were included.Give it a full service and I'm sure it'll start running better. If the starter is dodgy then perhaps it's just worth checking the earth connections. I'm sure they'd moved to negative-earth by 1968.
Thanks all, I have degreased the engine and it’s looking a lot better.
During my cleaning I have noticed the ht leads are very perished and one was only just into the dizzy cap.
Ordered: fuel pump, new distributor and leads, new battery, zenith rebuild kit, horn and a wiper motor.
Also ordered new hoops and sand canvas top, started to straighten the original hoops but 2 were kinked and the metal splitting slightly. Keeping the original canvas but it is very ripped and missing most of its straps.
Finally ordered a set of 1ton replica steels with yoko 235/85 tyres, current tyres are very old.
Annoyingly think I need to replace my studs for them to fit. Might upgrade from the 9/16ths to series 3 15mm push fit.
Looking into the paperwork when it had a new tank it also had: carb clean, new brake shoes, hard lines and servos all round, new ignition switch, coil and dynamo rebuild.
Quick ai of my plans
Plans are to get it running better and enjoy summer, then over winter get her into my workshop and strip it back to the chassis - got to admit I’m slightly nervous.
I would love to have a ‘perfect’ chassis, engine and interior and totally leave the bodywork.
Currently praying I can save the chassis and bulkhead, to me it all looks salvageable…
During my cleaning I have noticed the ht leads are very perished and one was only just into the dizzy cap.
Ordered: fuel pump, new distributor and leads, new battery, zenith rebuild kit, horn and a wiper motor.
Also ordered new hoops and sand canvas top, started to straighten the original hoops but 2 were kinked and the metal splitting slightly. Keeping the original canvas but it is very ripped and missing most of its straps.
Finally ordered a set of 1ton replica steels with yoko 235/85 tyres, current tyres are very old.
Annoyingly think I need to replace my studs for them to fit. Might upgrade from the 9/16ths to series 3 15mm push fit.
Looking into the paperwork when it had a new tank it also had: carb clean, new brake shoes, hard lines and servos all round, new ignition switch, coil and dynamo rebuild.
Quick ai of my plans
Plans are to get it running better and enjoy summer, then over winter get her into my workshop and strip it back to the chassis - got to admit I’m slightly nervous.
I would love to have a ‘perfect’ chassis, engine and interior and totally leave the bodywork.
Currently praying I can save the chassis and bulkhead, to me it all looks salvageable…
I just can't see the fascination of them.
Many years ago (late 80s or early 90s) a mate of mine bought a Series 1 and on the day he got his licence back we went on a day trip with another mate.
It was a chilly day in Spring, handling was appalling, ride was terrible, noise meant we had to shout to hear each other, heater was hopeless and sure enough it broke down. At Beachy Head. I wasn't sure whether to jump or push the poxy POS LR over the drop!
After a couple of hours trying to decide the AA turned up, fitted a new coil and we were on our way.
My mate got really into the LR scene building one with a 3 litre Ford V6, cage and harnesses for mad off-road events that was sort of entertaining the one time I was in it for a few miles, but those are my only two experiences of being in an LR and I really don't want to have to suffer one again!
Last time I saw my mate he had a V8 manual Disco that he had adapted so it only had the front seat, so maybe LR syndrome is incurable?
Many years ago (late 80s or early 90s) a mate of mine bought a Series 1 and on the day he got his licence back we went on a day trip with another mate.
It was a chilly day in Spring, handling was appalling, ride was terrible, noise meant we had to shout to hear each other, heater was hopeless and sure enough it broke down. At Beachy Head. I wasn't sure whether to jump or push the poxy POS LR over the drop!
After a couple of hours trying to decide the AA turned up, fitted a new coil and we were on our way.
My mate got really into the LR scene building one with a 3 litre Ford V6, cage and harnesses for mad off-road events that was sort of entertaining the one time I was in it for a few miles, but those are my only two experiences of being in an LR and I really don't want to have to suffer one again!
Last time I saw my mate he had a V8 manual Disco that he had adapted so it only had the front seat, so maybe LR syndrome is incurable?
Blakeatron said:
....Finally ordered a set of 1ton replica steels with yoko 235/85 tyres, current tyres are very old.
Annoyingly think I need to replace my studs for them to fit. Might upgrade from the 9/16ths to series 3 15mm push fit.
They're Wolf rims in your picture - are you fitting those as they're thicker than standard wheels and the nuts need torquing to military spec as they appear not to fit. Having said that I'm going from my 20 years younger 90 and an S2 may well be different Annoyingly think I need to replace my studs for them to fit. Might upgrade from the 9/16ths to series 3 15mm push fit.
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