Peugeot 306 - 1360cc of raw power.
Discussion
Yes, you read that right, a 1.4 
I'll flesh this out later but for now- take one wee 306 and stick some 405Mi16 alloys on:
Be less than impressed with brakes.
Swap these:
For these:
And acquire these:
Swap these:
For these:
(yes, I know, extra weight, but they're sooo comfy)
Make it a touch quicker with these (although still working on the manifold for the TB's):
And fit new rear ARB:
Still not happy with handling?
Make some shiny droplinks:
Along the way, patch up newly found letterbox in sills:
Save at least 16 grams with a shiny 7075 ally bonnet prop (vital performance mod):
Hit big puddle, wonder why car is pulling all over the shop, 3000 mile old wishbone bushes:
Mmm, quality, having gone through 3 sets in short order I was pretty fed up, so made myself some polyurethane ones:
Rework cylinder head as it was a bit breathless near the redline:
Make some ally spacers to replace steel ones:
Make lower strut brace to take some flex out of the subframe:
Go play:
Whoops:
Fit ZX rear arms and machine stub axles for 1 deg more neg. camber to stop that happening again.
Replace dying clutch with Kevlar one:
Lighten flywheel at same time, and make shiny black colour, me being a tart:
Not being happy with the damping on track, borrow some 4-way adjustables, as you do:
Then cry when I have to give 'em back.
And 'cause the shell is still flexing, make a carbon fibre upper brace:
Blow up gearbox:
Build new gearbox with 4-spider diff. EN26 shafts, slightly wider bearings and boron-nitrided gearset:
Yes, I know, I've tarted it up, sue me
Make even lighter spacers to bring wheels to right offset:
So that these can go on:
And do this:
Whilst car is off the road, make some 2-stage poly engine mounts:
Modify Gaz front struts:
Fit nice leather steering wheel to go with a 2.2 turn steering rack (no power steering, car parks are fun...):
Finally finish work on designing internals for new rear dampers and have Fox send a set over:
In case any of you ever wondered what the internals of a monotube look like, I stripped them down anyway to make some tweaks, so here's a load of component pictures if you couldn't give a monkies what the insides of a damper look like then skip the next 2 dozen pictures
How to turn perfectly good, shiny spangly dampers into a box of parts:
Step one, undo little lock screw:
Which lets you unscrew the wiper cap with a pin wrench:
Then you need to push the billet alloy main seal/shaft support down to expose the snap ring it holds against:
Prise that out with a tiny screwdriver and you can remove the shaft support and the 3 captive seals:
This is the bleed hole to purge air from the shock when rebuilding in case you were wondering.
Progressive rebound bumpstop, to prevent that horrible \\\'click\\\' you often get with GAZ/Avo/Koni\\\'s at full extension:
And the main valving piston, complete with shims and high-speed circuit backstop so that you can go jumping over humpback bridges if you like.
The patina is the oil draining off in ripples, not muck
Bronze PTFE coated main piston band, stagger cut for less leakage, and main body circlip:
[/quote]
Main compression stack shims once the piston is taken apart:
Compression valving side of the piston:
Rebound side:
The original rebound shims stack:
My rebound stack:
Remote res. end cap - secured with a circlip the same as the main seal:
And the billet floating piston:
There a barrel adjuster and another set of valving behind that...
Billet floating piston from the other side:
Barrel-type compression adjuster:
And the secondary set of high-speed digressive-linear blowoff valving for when the low speed circuit chokes.
I've got to take that apart later on for cleaning so I'll get some pictures of the internals...
You can re-stack all the shims in here too to adjust how much change the adjuster gives each click, and where in the curve the adjuster comes into effect.
Just in case you'd got bored with those 27 million stack combinations in the main body...
The secondary valving ports - as you can see 2 of these have spring loaded ball-bearings in them, these are to allow the oil to flow back freely in rebound.
The secondary shim stack - in this case a digressive stack due to me machining a concave surface on the adjuster (and drilling 4 oil ports instead of the standard 2) - all those thin shims make a strong, but fairly soft stack, so they have a set amount of preload against the housings, and that means it takes a set amount of force to open them but relatively low force after than, changing the preload affects where the high-speed blowoff comes in, the shape and thickness of the stack adjusts the ratio of low-to-high speed damping and the shape of the high speed curve.
This is what your shiny aluminium knob adjusts - the bypass that goes around the shim stack, as you can see, 8 settings with various orifice sizes to give a consistant, linear and repeatable adjustment every time, unlike the cheaper needle setups.
And the floating piston from the reservoirs - the O-ring seals the fluid from the gas, and another telfon-coated PEEK wear band to prevent the piston twisting.
Right, think that's about the end of the shiny pictures, back to underpowered 306's.
Bye, bye Gaz:
And make some broken brake discs, fully floating:
And I finally fell to the dark side and fitted something that didn't make it quicker this week:
So to make up for it I've shave half a kilo from the droplinks:
And I still haven't sorted out a new grill
+ Shiiiiteloads of maintance and probably a lot more I haven't got pictures of, you know how it is. (Solid rear beam mounts, Glacier rear beam bearings, titanium fittings on the rocker arms, anti-knockback springs in the calipers and drums, residual pressure valves in the brake lines + lots more)
And I'm currently working on the Gaz front struts to give me 3 way adjustment and a remote canister, along with some internal valving and sealing tweaks.
I'll flesh this out later but for now- take one wee 306 and stick some 405Mi16 alloys on:
Be less than impressed with brakes.
Swap these:
For these:
And acquire these:
Swap these:
For these:
(yes, I know, extra weight, but they're sooo comfy)
Make it a touch quicker with these (although still working on the manifold for the TB's):
And fit new rear ARB:
Still not happy with handling?
Make some shiny droplinks:
Along the way, patch up newly found letterbox in sills:
Save at least 16 grams with a shiny 7075 ally bonnet prop (vital performance mod):
Hit big puddle, wonder why car is pulling all over the shop, 3000 mile old wishbone bushes:
Mmm, quality, having gone through 3 sets in short order I was pretty fed up, so made myself some polyurethane ones:
Rework cylinder head as it was a bit breathless near the redline:
Make some ally spacers to replace steel ones:
Make lower strut brace to take some flex out of the subframe:
Go play:
Whoops:
Fit ZX rear arms and machine stub axles for 1 deg more neg. camber to stop that happening again.
Replace dying clutch with Kevlar one:
Lighten flywheel at same time, and make shiny black colour, me being a tart:
Not being happy with the damping on track, borrow some 4-way adjustables, as you do:
Then cry when I have to give 'em back.
And 'cause the shell is still flexing, make a carbon fibre upper brace:
Blow up gearbox:
Build new gearbox with 4-spider diff. EN26 shafts, slightly wider bearings and boron-nitrided gearset:
Yes, I know, I've tarted it up, sue me
Make even lighter spacers to bring wheels to right offset:
So that these can go on:
And do this:
Whilst car is off the road, make some 2-stage poly engine mounts:
Modify Gaz front struts:
Fit nice leather steering wheel to go with a 2.2 turn steering rack (no power steering, car parks are fun...):
Finally finish work on designing internals for new rear dampers and have Fox send a set over:
In case any of you ever wondered what the internals of a monotube look like, I stripped them down anyway to make some tweaks, so here's a load of component pictures if you couldn't give a monkies what the insides of a damper look like then skip the next 2 dozen pictures
How to turn perfectly good, shiny spangly dampers into a box of parts:
Step one, undo little lock screw:
Which lets you unscrew the wiper cap with a pin wrench:
Then you need to push the billet alloy main seal/shaft support down to expose the snap ring it holds against:
Prise that out with a tiny screwdriver and you can remove the shaft support and the 3 captive seals:
This is the bleed hole to purge air from the shock when rebuilding in case you were wondering.
Progressive rebound bumpstop, to prevent that horrible \\\'click\\\' you often get with GAZ/Avo/Koni\\\'s at full extension:
And the main valving piston, complete with shims and high-speed circuit backstop so that you can go jumping over humpback bridges if you like.
The patina is the oil draining off in ripples, not muck
Bronze PTFE coated main piston band, stagger cut for less leakage, and main body circlip:
[/quote]
Main compression stack shims once the piston is taken apart:
Compression valving side of the piston:
Rebound side:
The original rebound shims stack:
My rebound stack:
Remote res. end cap - secured with a circlip the same as the main seal:
And the billet floating piston:
There a barrel adjuster and another set of valving behind that...
Billet floating piston from the other side:
Barrel-type compression adjuster:
And the secondary set of high-speed digressive-linear blowoff valving for when the low speed circuit chokes.
I've got to take that apart later on for cleaning so I'll get some pictures of the internals...
You can re-stack all the shims in here too to adjust how much change the adjuster gives each click, and where in the curve the adjuster comes into effect.
Just in case you'd got bored with those 27 million stack combinations in the main body...
The secondary valving ports - as you can see 2 of these have spring loaded ball-bearings in them, these are to allow the oil to flow back freely in rebound.
The secondary shim stack - in this case a digressive stack due to me machining a concave surface on the adjuster (and drilling 4 oil ports instead of the standard 2) - all those thin shims make a strong, but fairly soft stack, so they have a set amount of preload against the housings, and that means it takes a set amount of force to open them but relatively low force after than, changing the preload affects where the high-speed blowoff comes in, the shape and thickness of the stack adjusts the ratio of low-to-high speed damping and the shape of the high speed curve.
This is what your shiny aluminium knob adjusts - the bypass that goes around the shim stack, as you can see, 8 settings with various orifice sizes to give a consistant, linear and repeatable adjustment every time, unlike the cheaper needle setups.
And the floating piston from the reservoirs - the O-ring seals the fluid from the gas, and another telfon-coated PEEK wear band to prevent the piston twisting.
Right, think that's about the end of the shiny pictures, back to underpowered 306's.
Bye, bye Gaz:
And make some broken brake discs, fully floating:
And I finally fell to the dark side and fitted something that didn't make it quicker this week:
So to make up for it I've shave half a kilo from the droplinks:
And I still haven't sorted out a new grill
+ Shiiiiteloads of maintance and probably a lot more I haven't got pictures of, you know how it is. (Solid rear beam mounts, Glacier rear beam bearings, titanium fittings on the rocker arms, anti-knockback springs in the calipers and drums, residual pressure valves in the brake lines + lots more)
And I'm currently working on the Gaz front struts to give me 3 way adjustment and a remote canister, along with some internal valving and sealing tweaks.
Edited by PhillipM on Friday 30th April 23:25
Edited by PhillipM on Friday 30th April 23:35
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 1st May 01:33
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 1st May 01:37
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AlexVTR said:
Pretty nice stuff 
i like it when people but some effort into modifying there cars. What is that cylinder head btw ? is it just a standard one you re-worked yourself ?
Just a standard one, yes, I was trying for a Rallye one from the 106 with the bigger valves, but I'm working on a shoestring budget so it wasn't to be. i like it when people but some effort into modifying there cars. What is that cylinder head btw ? is it just a standard one you re-worked yourself ?
Brilliant work, and fantastic knowlege of damper internals (i know a bit about mountainbike rear shocks & forks) to be able to alter shim stack configuration and other parts of the damper to suit you.
www.bakerbm.co.uk if you need some adjustable top-mounts, solid rear beam mounts and other such items for the car...
www.bakerbm.co.uk if you need some adjustable top-mounts, solid rear beam mounts and other such items for the car...
Rick1.8t said:
Brilliant work, and fantastic knowlege of damper internals (i know a bit about mountainbike rear shocks & forks) to be able to alter shim stack configuration and other parts of the damper to suit you.
www.bakerbm.co.uk if you need some adjustable top-mounts, solid rear beam mounts and other such items for the car...
Already made some solid rear beam mounts, fitted and working nicely, just working on the top mounts at the minute as they need to be able to pass the remote canister through to the engine bay, that and none of the 306 top mounts available actually seem to fit the curve of the 306 strut tops properly.www.bakerbm.co.uk if you need some adjustable top-mounts, solid rear beam mounts and other such items for the car...
hidetheelephants said:
Top bit of car tweaking. Where do you get the stuff to make your own polybushes?
Originally I used eli-flex, but it's a bit soft for wishbone bushes, but they kindly passed my inquiry onto another company who sent me some 3-part polyurethane resin - basically the 3rd component can control the final hardness, within a set range for that compound, and a proper primer for the steel to help adhesion.I'll see if I can dig out one of the old packs for the name, if I've still got one - thrown most of that stuff out now the car is on rose joints.
Wow! Never seen that much effort go into a TU engined 306! I recon you should keep the TU engine, fit a 106XSi head for bigger valves and lower compression and turbo the bugger I presume the engine in these is the iron block?
I was also going to point out that your lovely dampers and the spring control they provide would be going to waste without some form of cage, but it looks like you've got it covered.
I presume the engine in these is the iron block?I was also going to point out that your lovely dampers and the spring control they provide would be going to waste without some form of cage, but it looks like you've got it covered.
Nah, it's the ally block - can't be having that boat anchor of an iron engine up front!
I don't know about lowering the compression, I spent a fair bit of time and effort getting it running nicely at 10.4:1 instead of 9.3 as it is.
I'm going to get the throttle bodies on this summer, and make an exhaust manifold and system up to match, which'll probably push it to the heady heights of 120bhp-ish, it's 98 at the minute, not too bad given it originally came with 74bhp and it's limited to 6.2krpm currently.
Fortunately I have a Megasquirt ECU in my sock drawer (like every good petrolhead...) waiting to go on, and I've already worked on the rocker arms and rod bolts so it should be pretty happy with an 8krpm limit once that's sorted. I doubt it'll make power up there without sorting out a wilder cam though.
I also have an Eaton M45 under the bed, that could make it more interesting.
Basically I'm going to see how quick I can get it on track through just handling mods, the throttle bodies and ECU are mainly for the noise and to sort the lumpy fueling out - it's on Monomotronic single-point injection at the minute and it's crap.
Then I'll probably get the supercharger on there just to see how far the 1.4 can be pushed, and when I blow it up I'm working on a Renesis engine to put in the middle, but that'll have to wait until I have some money to throw at the car for all the associated bits and pieces.
There are some things even I'd rather buy than trying to make!
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 1st May 17:18
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 1st May 17:19
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 1st May 17:41
Sounds like you're planning exactly the same thing as I was, except I was going to use GSXR carbs. If you need any TU engine parts then let me know, im swimming in them over here...
You could use the XSI head and pistons (domed) which gives you a ratio of just over 10:1 with the advantage of the larger valves and better choice of cams.
You could use the XSI head and pistons (domed) which gives you a ratio of just over 10:1 with the advantage of the larger valves and better choice of cams.
PhillipM said:
GTi-6 lump up front? Faaarr too heavy 
That's what I said. Everyone is putting them in 205s, but they totally ruin the handling imo.When I saw this topic I thought it would just be a 1.4 daily smoker with an ironic title. You really do have 1360cc of raw power - fair play to you. It was a great engine in my 205 XS (dynoed at 92bhp after a couple of mods and proper carb jetting) so stick with it. Very interesting thread.
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