New Family Wagon: Legacy 3.0 R Spec B
Discussion
Cambs_Stuart said:
TEKNOPUG said:
WRX calipers work on discs upto 335mm.
Interesting. If the slider pins don't fix this then i may have a look. The seals, pistons and bleed nipples all look good so i hope just new pins, pads, discs, fitting kit and a good clean will sort them out. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/used-cars-used-...
The legacy now has new pads, discs, one new caliper, a new starter and one new water pipe.
Working on the rest of the brakes i found the driver's side caliper was in a very poor state. The pistons were heavily corroded, so much so i could only move one. Even if I clamped the other and pushed down on the brake it wouldn't move.
My heart sank when i saw the banjo bolt, but it came out without too much fuss.
|https://thumbsnap.com/v4AbNGi2[/url]
Fortunately budweg calipers aren't very expensive, have a 5 year warranty and only take a week or so to be delivered from autodoc.
Adding to the "legacy sliding calipers aren't a great design" debate the pad return spring is right at the bottom, which can't help keep the pads lined up in the carrier. The old pads required a hearty whack with a hammer to remove, and the new pads needed a couple of mm filed off so they could fit and move properly.
But they're in.
All the brake bits are also from autodoc, the cheapest recognised brands i could find. TRW discs with painted hubs and brembo pads. The discs seem good quality, but we'll see what they look like after an english winter.
All complete with shiny caliper
[url]
And again via autodoc I've also got a new starter motor.
This one fits perfectly.
Working on the rest of the brakes i found the driver's side caliper was in a very poor state. The pistons were heavily corroded, so much so i could only move one. Even if I clamped the other and pushed down on the brake it wouldn't move.
My heart sank when i saw the banjo bolt, but it came out without too much fuss.
|https://thumbsnap.com/v4AbNGi2[/url]Fortunately budweg calipers aren't very expensive, have a 5 year warranty and only take a week or so to be delivered from autodoc.
Adding to the "legacy sliding calipers aren't a great design" debate the pad return spring is right at the bottom, which can't help keep the pads lined up in the carrier. The old pads required a hearty whack with a hammer to remove, and the new pads needed a couple of mm filed off so they could fit and move properly.
But they're in.
All the brake bits are also from autodoc, the cheapest recognised brands i could find. TRW discs with painted hubs and brembo pads. The discs seem good quality, but we'll see what they look like after an english winter.
All complete with shiny caliper
[url]And again via autodoc I've also got a new starter motor.
This one fits perfectly.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Sunday 5th December 20:10
Thanks.
The leaking coolant pipe is now fixed. There are four metal pipes in total, and to be honest, they all look crusty, one of these pipes has been out of stock at ICP for a while, although more stock is on it's way. When I've got a full set I'll plan on doing them.
Looking at the other pipes on the car access looks tricky, and a lot of the hardware holding them in place looks horribly crusty. So, i think I'll get a professional in when that final pipe is in stock. I suspect the subframe will need to be lowered to give better access.
The leaking coolant pipe is now fixed. There are four metal pipes in total, and to be honest, they all look crusty, one of these pipes has been out of stock at ICP for a while, although more stock is on it's way. When I've got a full set I'll plan on doing them.
Looking at the other pipes on the car access looks tricky, and a lot of the hardware holding them in place looks horribly crusty. So, i think I'll get a professional in when that final pipe is in stock. I suspect the subframe will need to be lowered to give better access.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Monday 20th December 06:57
There are a few bits on the to do list. The sump needs a wire brush and a coat of hammerite. I'd like to replace the rest of the metal coolant pipes before it gets urgent. There appears to be a small weep from the plug at the back of the PS pump.
Then I'd like to attend to a few interior touchpoints, the gearknob, plus gear and handbrake gaiters. A couple of bits of plether need sticking down.
The rear window seals are starting to split, and there is grit in the front windows which is causing scratches in the glass.
And i haven't even thought about poly bushes, rear anti roll bars, braided hoses, master cylinder braces...
Then I'd like to attend to a few interior touchpoints, the gearknob, plus gear and handbrake gaiters. A couple of bits of plether need sticking down.
The rear window seals are starting to split, and there is grit in the front windows which is causing scratches in the glass.
And i haven't even thought about poly bushes, rear anti roll bars, braided hoses, master cylinder braces...
I've started to have a look at some of the interior bits that need some TLC.
The first is the bolster on the drivers side. The foam underneath is in good condition, but the leather is scuffed and cracked.
So, i cleaned the area, and got a tub of this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08GP9DFMK/ref=cm_sw_r...
And it worked fantastically well. Smear it on evenly, dry it with a hairdryer and Bob's your mother's brother.
Well worth £12 and 10 minutes work. It was so good i touched up all the scuffs on the seats.
We'll see how long it lasts before it needs doing again, but it was so quick and easy that doing it as part of a clean wouldn't be the end of the world.
The first is the bolster on the drivers side. The foam underneath is in good condition, but the leather is scuffed and cracked.
So, i cleaned the area, and got a tub of this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08GP9DFMK/ref=cm_sw_r...
And it worked fantastically well. Smear it on evenly, dry it with a hairdryer and Bob's your mother's brother.
Well worth £12 and 10 minutes work. It was so good i touched up all the scuffs on the seats.
We'll see how long it lasts before it needs doing again, but it was so quick and easy that doing it as part of a clean wouldn't be the end of the world.
Long overdue attention for the family bus.
The legacy has been doing it's family duties very well, and has covered about 2000 miles in the last six months.
So I had a good crawl about underneath while changing the oil.
I've ticked off one of the jobs, namely the rusty sump.
After a good wire brush it looked like this:
And a couple of generous coats of rust converter later it looked a bit tidier. I'll slap some direct to rust paint on tomorrow:
Every now and then I've noticed a couple of coin sized drops of something damp under the car. Having a look around one of the other coolant pipes is starting to ooze:
Thankfully, after a long period of unavailability they're all in stock at import car parts.
So I would still like to refresh some interior bits, but higher on the priority list will be getting these pipes sorted.
I may do the plugs at the same time...
The legacy has been doing it's family duties very well, and has covered about 2000 miles in the last six months.
So I had a good crawl about underneath while changing the oil.
I've ticked off one of the jobs, namely the rusty sump.
After a good wire brush it looked like this:
And a couple of generous coats of rust converter later it looked a bit tidier. I'll slap some direct to rust paint on tomorrow:
Every now and then I've noticed a couple of coin sized drops of something damp under the car. Having a look around one of the other coolant pipes is starting to ooze:
Thankfully, after a long period of unavailability they're all in stock at import car parts.
So I would still like to refresh some interior bits, but higher on the priority list will be getting these pipes sorted.
I may do the plugs at the same time...
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Friday 1st July 15:45
Great cars. They do like to rust though, here’s what our 3.0Rn Outback looked like when the plastic arches and covers came off, unfortunately way more than it was worth to repair it 
The H6 from it lives on in an Impreza now though! The tensioner pulley bearing went
on ours, had to replace that and a new belt on the drive, all simple enough stuff, struck me how well thought out they are put together. The H6 is a lovely turbine smooth engine to, miss that now our family wagon is tractor juice powered.
The H6 from it lives on in an Impreza now though! The tensioner pulley bearing went on ours, had to replace that and a new belt on the drive, all simple enough stuff, struck me how well thought out they are put together. The H6 is a lovely turbine smooth engine to, miss that now our family wagon is tractor juice powered.
I agree on both points, the H6 is almost in the old "balance a coin on it when it's running" level of smoothness. I have to actually watch the rev counter as you just can't tell how hard it's working.
The previous owner was debating fitting the engine and gearbox to a BRZ. I think the power delivery would have been great, but I'm not sure about the extra weight.
As for rust, when I was underneath I was thinking about setting up a sheep dip full of rust converter and driving the car through....
The previous owner was debating fitting the engine and gearbox to a BRZ. I think the power delivery would have been great, but I'm not sure about the extra weight.
As for rust, when I was underneath I was thinking about setting up a sheep dip full of rust converter and driving the car through....
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