New Family Wagon: Legacy 3.0 R Spec B
Discussion
The sheep dip isn’t a bad idea. Ours went to Southwest Rust Proofing for dintrol treatment but unfortunately it just wasn’t worth the welding. Shame as a well sorted legacy / outback with a set of all seasons is a bit of a all weather sleeper. Really miss ours. Good work keeping your Legacy in fine fettle 
jwwbowe said:
Great cars. They do like to rust though, here’s what our 3.0Rn Outback looked like when the plastic arches and covers came off, unfortunately way more than it was worth to repair it 
The H6 from it lives on in an Impreza now though! The tensioner pulley bearing went
on ours, had to replace that and a new belt on the drive, all simple enough stuff, struck me how well thought out they are put together. The H6 is a lovely turbine smooth engine to, miss that now our family wagon is tractor juice powered.
Crikey, must check mine - how difficult to get this level of strip down? The H6 from it lives on in an Impreza now though! The tensioner pulley bearing went on ours, had to replace that and a new belt on the drive, all simple enough stuff, struck me how well thought out they are put together. The H6 is a lovely turbine smooth engine to, miss that now our family wagon is tractor juice powered.
That's a scary amount of rust. When I'm feeling brave I'll have a peak behind the arch liners.
Anyway, despite the slight coolant leak and ailing clutch I loaded up the wagon, filled it with V power and a dose of redex and headed to the west country for an anniversary trip with my wife.
I watched the temperature gauge all the way, and checked the coolant levels whenever the engine was cold but it only dropped fractionally.
A couple of things came to mind on the long motorway drive. 1. The seats are really comfortable. 2. The interior, despite the age and milage is remarkably squeak and rattle free.
Off the motorway and on the backroads, the big wagon again put a smile on my face with how it drives. The faster you go, the better it gets (until your passenger start complaining) It's not the fastest in a straight line, but it's just fun to drive. The gearbox, engine and drive train really suit each other.
Plus, it did 350 miles on a tank at 30 mpg!
Anyway, despite the slight coolant leak and ailing clutch I loaded up the wagon, filled it with V power and a dose of redex and headed to the west country for an anniversary trip with my wife.
I watched the temperature gauge all the way, and checked the coolant levels whenever the engine was cold but it only dropped fractionally.
A couple of things came to mind on the long motorway drive. 1. The seats are really comfortable. 2. The interior, despite the age and milage is remarkably squeak and rattle free.
Off the motorway and on the backroads, the big wagon again put a smile on my face with how it drives. The faster you go, the better it gets (until your passenger start complaining) It's not the fastest in a straight line, but it's just fun to drive. The gearbox, engine and drive train really suit each other.
Plus, it did 350 miles on a tank at 30 mpg!
Cambs_Stuart said:
First job on the list: new stereo. Replacing the unit is tricky, as the facia that surrounds it has all the HVAC controls built in. It is possible to import one from Japan, but the cost is £160+ and the lead time is longer than I've got patience for.
However, there are facias from Russia that work and are a lot cheaper, but are only compatible with the facelift stero, which mine isn't. But you can fit a facelift stereo into a pre facelift car.
So, a bit of ebaying and 2 weeks later I've got a cheap post facelift stereo and a russian facia for a lot less than the cost of importing a unit from japan.
Now it's just a case of combining the two.
Everything came apart fine, apart from this screw which was not budging.
Fortunately, i got one if these for my birthday:
And it quickly solved the problem.
Then from the comfort of my shed/office i happily ignored everything i know about static sensitivity and spent a bit of quiet time messing around with bits:
And in the end I've got this ready to go:
Just happened to stumble on this thread. I'm looking to upgrade to a double din on my pre facelift too and a similar facia to the one you've installed has come up for sale. However, there are facias from Russia that work and are a lot cheaper, but are only compatible with the facelift stero, which mine isn't. But you can fit a facelift stereo into a pre facelift car.
So, a bit of ebaying and 2 weeks later I've got a cheap post facelift stereo and a russian facia for a lot less than the cost of importing a unit from japan.
Now it's just a case of combining the two.
Everything came apart fine, apart from this screw which was not budging.
Fortunately, i got one if these for my birthday:
And it quickly solved the problem.
Then from the comfort of my shed/office i happily ignored everything i know about static sensitivity and spent a bit of quiet time messing around with bits:
And in the end I've got this ready to go:
Quick query, I see what you mean about the HVAC controls being different. But do these not work with the existing wiring or did you have to take it all apart like you did?
Sorry if that's not clear enough but just wasn't quite sure why you had to go through all that hassle!
There is a difference between the facelift and pre-facelift controls. The facelift control unit has 5 buttons and preface unit has 6, which is why I had to swap bits over from a doner into the bare facia facelift moulding to get a complete working unit.
You can get a pre-facelift double din facia from ebay, they are often available to ship from Japan, but last year they were £150 to £160.
This one looks a good deal:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175312494036?mkcid=16&a...
I suspect the Russian facia I used is going to be much harder to get hold.of now...
You can get a pre-facelift double din facia from ebay, they are often available to ship from Japan, but last year they were £150 to £160.
This one looks a good deal:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175312494036?mkcid=16&a...
I suspect the Russian facia I used is going to be much harder to get hold.of now...
Big bill time for the legacy.
The clutch on this had never been great, and in recent months had got harder and harder to use smoothly.
So. A new kit ordered from ICP, complete with new flywheel.
And Tim Farmer booked.
It's always a slightly worrying feeling, handing the car over to Tim. The good point is that he is incredibly through, the bad point is that he finds more things to do. However, this time he didn't have to look hard as the exhaust flange at the end of the cat fell apart:
Thankfully, Tim was prepared and had enough tools and bits around to get the car mobile again.
But a trip to a fabricators for a new header to Y pipe section is on the cards.
While the gearbox was out new coolant crossover pipes, and a new thermostat were fitted:
There was no way to fit them without removing the gearbox/engine or dropping the subframe, so I'm really glad I didn't try to fit these at home.
But the new clutch is fantastic. The bite is really low, it's beautifully smooth and easy to use. The car no longer whines like an electric milk float when I'm driving round town, which is nice.
I suspect a bearing was on it's way out as the clutch plate that came off wasn't as dead as I'd expected.
Clutches are expensive, but I find they can transform the feel of a car: a new clutch makes the whole vehicle feel a lot newer, so I don't resent the bill quite so much.
The clutch on this had never been great, and in recent months had got harder and harder to use smoothly.
So. A new kit ordered from ICP, complete with new flywheel.
And Tim Farmer booked.
It's always a slightly worrying feeling, handing the car over to Tim. The good point is that he is incredibly through, the bad point is that he finds more things to do. However, this time he didn't have to look hard as the exhaust flange at the end of the cat fell apart:
Thankfully, Tim was prepared and had enough tools and bits around to get the car mobile again.
But a trip to a fabricators for a new header to Y pipe section is on the cards.
While the gearbox was out new coolant crossover pipes, and a new thermostat were fitted:
There was no way to fit them without removing the gearbox/engine or dropping the subframe, so I'm really glad I didn't try to fit these at home.
But the new clutch is fantastic. The bite is really low, it's beautifully smooth and easy to use. The car no longer whines like an electric milk float when I'm driving round town, which is nice.
I suspect a bearing was on it's way out as the clutch plate that came off wasn't as dead as I'd expected.
Clutches are expensive, but I find they can transform the feel of a car: a new clutch makes the whole vehicle feel a lot newer, so I don't resent the bill quite so much.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 19th July 10:43
Chimune said:
I'm just about to book my clutch and prices are into 4 figs. Do you mind me what ballpark fig you paid for that job ?
And are those parts of, pattern or upgrades ?
Tia
The clutch, bearings and flywheel was £450 from import car parts. I always use them for OEM stuff. It always fits and is always at least OEM quality. And are those parts of, pattern or upgrades ?
Tia
I had been looking for a second hand flywheel to get re-skimmed but I couldn't work out if there were the same as an impreza 6 speed. Then for Tim Farmer do do the clutch, water pipes and exhaust rebuild was £350.
So, getting on for 25% of the value of the car.
If you're local to cambridge and want a cheap flywheel to get skimmed and a new bearing fitted then let me know.
If they've not been done already, get the water crossover pipes done at the same time as access is a nightmare.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 19th July 10:29
Cambs_Stuart said:
Chimune said:
I'm just about to book my clutch and prices are into 4 figs. Do you mind me what ballpark fig you paid for that job ?
And are those parts of, pattern or upgrades ?
Tia
The clutch, bearings and flywheel was £450 from import car parts. I always use them for OEM stuff. It always fits and is always at least OEM quality. And are those parts of, pattern or upgrades ?
Tia
I had been looking for a second hand flywheel to get re-skimmed but I couldn't work out if there were the same as an impreza 6 speed. Then for Tim Farmer do do the clutch, water pipes and exhaust rebuild was £350.
So, getting on for 25% of the value of the car.
If you're local to cambridge and want a cheap flywheel to get skimmed and a new bearing fitted then let me know.
If they've not been done already, get the water crossover pipes done at the same time as access is a nightmare.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 19th July 10:29
In up in Newcastle - great to know ball park price plus the tip about the water pipes too.
Chimune said:
Ooh just saw this. Thanks.
In up in Newcastle - great to know ball park price plus the tip about the water pipes too.
Subaru clutches are a bit tricky, there's a lot to disconnect and it's a good 4 to 5 hour job for someone who knows what they're doing. So unless you've got a decent local independent it may still be expensive. In up in Newcastle - great to know ball park price plus the tip about the water pipes too.
Spinakerr said:
Good to see an update - at least the car is all set for the summer, and as you say the clutch is transformative.
Had to chuckle at the finger sander earlier on - I firmly believe now they are an essential tool for the workshop!
Absolutely. It's up there with flexi headed ratchet spanners and an impact gun for tools that get me out of problems. Had to chuckle at the finger sander earlier on - I firmly believe now they are an essential tool for the workshop!
Oh dear. After 5 months mine has done something weird.
Went to shops and just as I switched it off the wipers went on so they ended up parked halfway up window. When I returned car started normally and I headed home. At some point I noticed the wipers - front or rear weren't working at all !
Then noticed the radio and info center were off too.
So I'm thinking unlikely to be common fuse, and therefor a pita.
Got home fine. Restarted car and everything back working again!
Will stick my fault code reader in later today.
Wonder if this is related to lack of door operated interior lights...
Went to shops and just as I switched it off the wipers went on so they ended up parked halfway up window. When I returned car started normally and I headed home. At some point I noticed the wipers - front or rear weren't working at all !
Then noticed the radio and info center were off too.
So I'm thinking unlikely to be common fuse, and therefor a pita.
Got home fine. Restarted car and everything back working again!
Will stick my fault code reader in later today.
Wonder if this is related to lack of door operated interior lights...
Well I just had most of the fuse box relays and lower dash out. Gave everything a waggle unplugged and plugged all the blocks. Some evidence of previous tampering and 1 poor solder joint coming from ignition area so good to know for next time.
Also found out that...
1. The front map lights aren't designed to come on when the front doors open. Only the center dome light - which had blown. So my suspicions of some more serious issue are gone.
2. If you join the 2 Green wires by accelerator pedal, the cel comes on - by design! Don't do that....
3. The clock doesn't hold the bst time setting coz it gets the time from the satellite so to get it to display bst you have to go into the satnav menu and do it there.
Car back together now...
Also found out that...
1. The front map lights aren't designed to come on when the front doors open. Only the center dome light - which had blown. So my suspicions of some more serious issue are gone.
2. If you join the 2 Green wires by accelerator pedal, the cel comes on - by design! Don't do that....
3. The clock doesn't hold the bst time setting coz it gets the time from the satellite so to get it to display bst you have to go into the satnav menu and do it there.
Car back together now...
The legacy continues to do it's family transport duties very well, despite it's amazing thirst for fuel.
On my to do list was to repair/refurb some of the touchpoints. The steering wheel, gear knob etc.
The wheel was first up.
The old wheel was looking tired, the leather was scuffed and dull.
This picture doesn't really show all the issues, but gives an idea.
So I bought the very cheapest wheel from Ebay, from a chap breaking a forester. One of the good things about Subaru is that a lot of bits are interchangeable, and this wheel is exactly the same as mine. In fact, it was in better condition than mine...
I also ordered a wheel refurb kit from the furniture clinic, this is some sandpaper, a couple of bottles of cleaner, a leather binder and a leather seal.
Attacking the wheel with sandpaper felt like a poor descision, but after lots of cleaning and a few applications of binder the wheel started to look really good.
I had a few issues with the sealant: no matter how carefully I applied it, or where I left it to dry, I ended up with small particles, almost like grains of sand on the surface. They cleaned up with some 2000 grit sandpaper, but it was annoying.
Anyway, after a week to let the sealant go off, I gave it a feed and polish and popped out at lunchtime to fit it.
Much, much better. Not new, but sympathetically restored, as they would say in the repair shed.
The kit from the furniture clinic is really good and easy to use, if time consuming and requiring a methodical approach. Satisfying though.
Having said that, I tried to follow the same process on my knob, but that was too far gone.
Fortunately, new gear knobs are cheaper than wheels.
On my to do list was to repair/refurb some of the touchpoints. The steering wheel, gear knob etc.
The wheel was first up.
The old wheel was looking tired, the leather was scuffed and dull.
This picture doesn't really show all the issues, but gives an idea.
So I bought the very cheapest wheel from Ebay, from a chap breaking a forester. One of the good things about Subaru is that a lot of bits are interchangeable, and this wheel is exactly the same as mine. In fact, it was in better condition than mine...
I also ordered a wheel refurb kit from the furniture clinic, this is some sandpaper, a couple of bottles of cleaner, a leather binder and a leather seal.
Attacking the wheel with sandpaper felt like a poor descision, but after lots of cleaning and a few applications of binder the wheel started to look really good.
I had a few issues with the sealant: no matter how carefully I applied it, or where I left it to dry, I ended up with small particles, almost like grains of sand on the surface. They cleaned up with some 2000 grit sandpaper, but it was annoying.
Anyway, after a week to let the sealant go off, I gave it a feed and polish and popped out at lunchtime to fit it.
Much, much better. Not new, but sympathetically restored, as they would say in the repair shed.
The kit from the furniture clinic is really good and easy to use, if time consuming and requiring a methodical approach. Satisfying though.
Having said that, I tried to follow the same process on my knob, but that was too far gone.
Fortunately, new gear knobs are cheaper than wheels.
Chimune said:
Well I just had most of the fuse box relays and lower dash out. Gave everything a waggle unplugged and plugged all the blocks. Some evidence of previous tampering and 1 poor solder joint coming from ignition area so good to know for next time.
Also found out that...
1. The front map lights aren't designed to come on when the front doors open. Only the center dome light - which had blown. So my suspicions of some more serious issue are gone.
2. If you join the 2 Green wires by accelerator pedal, the cel comes on - by design! Don't do that....
3. The clock doesn't hold the bst time setting coz it gets the time from the satellite so to get it to display bst you have to go into the satnav menu and do it there.
Car back together now...
Reading this reminded me to two things. Also found out that...
1. The front map lights aren't designed to come on when the front doors open. Only the center dome light - which had blown. So my suspicions of some more serious issue are gone.
2. If you join the 2 Green wires by accelerator pedal, the cel comes on - by design! Don't do that....
3. The clock doesn't hold the bst time setting coz it gets the time from the satellite so to get it to display bst you have to go into the satnav menu and do it there.
Car back together now...
1. In an impreza there are two green connectors under the dash near the steering wheel. Connecting those puts the car in a service mode. Fans and solenoids cycle (which really helps if you're cleaning the boost solenoid).
2. When I re-connected the battery I forgot to re-set the time.
Glad you're getting to the bottom of yours.
So mine needs a clutch. I bought car with 140k on original clutch so had budgeted one in. Turns out they aren't really made anymore! My local sub specialist said non available.
So have had to go exedy oem and even though the clutch isn't slipping I'm putting a new flywheel in too.
Taking the opportunity to replace the bushes on the universal joint on the gear linkage while the gear box is out.
So have had to go exedy oem and even though the clutch isn't slipping I'm putting a new flywheel in too.
Taking the opportunity to replace the bushes on the universal joint on the gear linkage while the gear box is out.
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