Jaguar xjc 4.2
Discussion
Before anyone says no oil pressure, it’s a faulty sender.
Got to be honest getting fed up replacing every other switch or sender unit…….but that’s the joy of a restoration.
So new oil pressure gauge sender and new water temp gauge sender. I’m impressed the alternator still works unlike the original starter motor. The electric gizmo inside the distributor has also been replaced although it did work initially on first start up.
Last dial to check will be the speedo. No fingers crossed for that as it’s a wired speedo.
Now the engine is running I’ve been able to do a gearbox oil flush. As a recap it’s an LT77 manual 5 speed. A tip I got from the tvr boys using the same gearbox. Drain existing oil, then refill with a 50/50 ratio of auto gearbox fluid and white spirt. Making sure rear wheels are off the ground, start engine, put into gear and let the engine tick over gently driving the gearbox until warmed up getting the flush oil all through the gearbox. Drain and repeat process until flush oil comes out clean. Then it’s ready to refill with the correct grade of oil. The TVR boys recommended a refill with mobile1 engine oil together with an additional additive for manual gearbox’s. This mix allows cold slick gear changes and when hot stops any crunchy gear changes. I didn’t notice hot crunchy gear changes when first fitted many years ago but it was a bit notchy when cold. So hopefully should solve that cold issue.
Picture below showing clean flush oil being drained out
Picture below showing clean flush oil being drained out
Had a few issues after the initial engine start. First one a coolant leak between the inlet manifold and cylinder. A metallic looking something wedged between the manifold and gasket.
Only way to check thoroughly was to part dismantle the carburettors to remove the inlet manifold. Picture below is what I found
Somehow I fitted the gasket and fitted a washer to a stud and then fitted the manifold on top?!
So after using a few fragrant words all was put back together with a new gasket. Then the carburettor fuel lines wouldn’t seal around the banjo bolts. Aluminium washers were not sealing. Tried fibre, they didn’t stay dry long. Far right carb wouldn’t seal at all. Copper washers didn’t work. Then looked at the float lid and the internal thread was damaged. That took 5 hours of dismantling and rebuild carefully trying not to launch anything before I swapped that part?!
So now the coolant wasn’t leaking, fuel wasn’t leaking, time to fire up. Full choke she started. Happy days again. Gradually warming up checking for leaks again. Exhaust note is lovely, a bit angry sounding for a Jag 6, not too loud but sounding a bit more aggressive. Perfect! So back to the engine, started a few blips, induction noise is also sounding sweet. The carbs need tweaking but not bad considering. Then with horror I watched the power steering pulley fall off and dent the inside of the radiator
Gutted!
No idea how this has happened as the pulley is an interference fit on the shaft and required the pulley to be heated up in an oven to expand enough to fit back on the power steering pump shaft.
Now I need to measure up and see what’s happened. Possibly machine a new part to suit the pump or find another pump with the pulley still fitted.
Other than that, another day in car restoration paradise
Only way to check thoroughly was to part dismantle the carburettors to remove the inlet manifold. Picture below is what I found
Somehow I fitted the gasket and fitted a washer to a stud and then fitted the manifold on top?!
So after using a few fragrant words all was put back together with a new gasket. Then the carburettor fuel lines wouldn’t seal around the banjo bolts. Aluminium washers were not sealing. Tried fibre, they didn’t stay dry long. Far right carb wouldn’t seal at all. Copper washers didn’t work. Then looked at the float lid and the internal thread was damaged. That took 5 hours of dismantling and rebuild carefully trying not to launch anything before I swapped that part?!
So now the coolant wasn’t leaking, fuel wasn’t leaking, time to fire up. Full choke she started. Happy days again. Gradually warming up checking for leaks again. Exhaust note is lovely, a bit angry sounding for a Jag 6, not too loud but sounding a bit more aggressive. Perfect! So back to the engine, started a few blips, induction noise is also sounding sweet. The carbs need tweaking but not bad considering. Then with horror I watched the power steering pulley fall off and dent the inside of the radiator
Gutted!
No idea how this has happened as the pulley is an interference fit on the shaft and required the pulley to be heated up in an oven to expand enough to fit back on the power steering pump shaft.
Now I need to measure up and see what’s happened. Possibly machine a new part to suit the pump or find another pump with the pulley still fitted.
Other than that, another day in car restoration paradise
Retro_Jim said:
Power steering aside it's good to hear that the Jag is running after some tweaks etc.
Are the oil pressure senders still available to buy?
Yes new oil pressure senders are available. There has been a recent resurgence in certain xj6 series parts. Obviously expensive but available.Are the oil pressure senders still available to buy?
I still do my best to repair where possible.
Started the repair on the carburettor float lid. The internal thread is damaged so had a look, and I can extend the thread another 10mm deeper into the body. I’ve cut a matching thread on a bit of bar stock. This will then be thread locked into place. A new internal hole will then be drilled within. Not the same size as original but one that is a little bigger than the 6mm hole drilled through the side of the bolt. Probably go for 1/2” unf
A new banjo bolt will then be made to suit the new threaded hole within the carburettor float lid.
The feed hole into the float chamber is only 3mm, so can’t see any issues with fuel flow restrictions. Hopefully get this finished tomorrow.
carinaman said:
Sorry to see the result of the pulley to radiator mishap.
Things happen…… But not sure why in this instance?Had a think and rather than draining the power steering fluid to remove the pump I think I’ll machine a new fitting for the pulley.
A good .05mm undersized then heated to expand for an interference fit.
All I can think is I damaged the original by pushing it off via a hydraulic press removing a fraction of material.
Below shows the brass plug I machined to stop the leaking brake fluid from the brake line bias differential. Basically if a brake line leaks and loses pressure. A cam inside the unit slides over and operates a switch to turn a warning light on between the main dials. Problem I have is the seal has gone on the push on electrical switch and hence leaks brake fluid. New rubber sealed electrical connections for it are not available so it has a bung until I repair the leaking seal
The power steering pulley issue I’ve been repairing, well tried to. I thought to sleeve the original pulley mount. Machined well but my bore micrometer ran out of adjustment to measure. I did the fatal error and assumed the finished dimension on the previous cut plus the last cut…..doh!
Got it red hot to fit over sleeve and it just got stuck and that was that. Massive hammer to remove and I thought it’s bent now so start again. Pictures below show newly machined part with the nfg original part.
With the pulley removed the mount will heated red hot then fitted onto power steering pump drive shaft. Once cool, a clean, coat of satin black and then the pulley can secured to it. I’ve used 3 new stainless steel hex bolts, machined the tops flats and given them a quick polish to add a bit of shine.
Got it red hot to fit over sleeve and it just got stuck and that was that. Massive hammer to remove and I thought it’s bent now so start again. Pictures below show newly machined part with the nfg original part.
With the pulley removed the mount will heated red hot then fitted onto power steering pump drive shaft. Once cool, a clean, coat of satin black and then the pulley can secured to it. I’ve used 3 new stainless steel hex bolts, machined the tops flats and given them a quick polish to add a bit of shine.
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