996t

[caymanred]

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3384001.htm


good value or will this go pop on me? i guess 58k isnt tooo much.

at that sort of milage is it more the rads you have to worry about?


taaa

[6C4GTS]

Blatant abuse of an S decal on the back - sure sign of danger!!

[mollytherocker]

caymanred said:

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3384001.htm


good value or will this go pop on me? i guess 58k isnt tooo much.

at that sort of milage is it more the rads you have to worry about?


taaa

No crystal balls here I am afraid!

I dont like the look of it from the advert, screams CHAV. I would only look at it if it was fairly local.

MTR

[monthefish]

caymanred said:

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3384001.htm


good value or will this go pop on me? i guess 58k isnt tooo much.

at that sort of milage is it more the rads you have to worry about?


taaa

58 k is nothing. Everything wears out at a different point.

[shortlad]

6C4GTS said:

Blatant abuse of an S decal on the back - sure sign of danger!!

Could be worth a look but that S badge must go!!

The only badge on the back should be the one it left the factory with!

It's an early no glove box car but I love my 996tt.

I would change the wheels back to Silver and consider removing the tint from the windows.

[Rockster]

caymanred said:

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3384001.htm


good value or will this go pop on me? i guess 58k isnt tooo much.

at that sort of milage is it more the rads you have to worry about?


taaa

At that mileage you have to worry about almost everything. The vehicle is first and foremost a used car and should be treated to a thorough used car check out.

(Oh, my 03 Turbo has over 77K miles, 67K miles I have put on the car since I bought it in June of 09 when the car had just 10K miles on it) and hasn't gone pop yet. It did have a few problems that I'll cover below.)

The radiators can develop a leak at any time. The one in each corner from corrosion from the trash that collects in the ducting. The front bumper cover needs to be removed every so often (I tend to have this done yearly with my Turbo -- the radiator fans run all the time and the thing's just a vacuum cleaner when on the road) and the A/C condensor swung out of the way and all the trash removed from the ducting.

The center radiator duct one collects trash too but it is also exposed to rocks.

Let's see... test ride/drive: Arrange to start the engine cold and let it come up to near operating temp idling. Before you start the engine be sure the A/C is off. Be sure when you turn the key to on the warning lights all come on -- especially the CEL! -- and all go off when the engine starts.

Let the engine idle. It can be a bit rough sounding at first but it will smooth out and the idle speed drops. (The intake cam timing is modified at cold start and the intake valve lift is set to the low lift state which makes the engine a bit of a clattery thing at and after cold start, but there should be no ticking, clicking, clunking, knocking, nothing really regular or periodic.

A brief cloud of oil smoke is ok but it should be brief. If it persists...

You also want to give the engine a chance to get nice and hot and listen to how it sounds at idle and later on the test ride/drive at every other rpm between idle up to redline.

Once the engine is warm, warm enough you can check the oil level, then the driver takes you on a test ride.

Give the car a thorough test ride/drive. The route should cover at least 15 miles and give the driver a chance to demo the car in a variety of driving scenarios.

After the 15 miles back at the starting point, you take the car out on the same route and drive the car the same way.

The car needs to be driven long enough, and 30 miles is about the minimum, to give the DME a chance to detect say engine misfires or other problems and set the CEL. Use the on-board computer control stalk to select 'boost' display and verify the engine can make 0.7 bar of boost. It takes a full throttle run from say just under 3K rpms and holding the throttle down some. The boost will peak, should peak, at 0.7 bar but then drop off as rpms rise.

The engine should also pull cleanly and smoothly the whole time. Be sure when you do this you and the test driver have plenty of room. These cars -- if you're not use to them -- can build speed at a scary rate.

Observe hot oil pressure. At idle between 1.5 to 2.0 bar is about normal. It way low, engine may be worn. If too high, the oil may be too heavy to mask a worn out engine. Hot at 3K rpms the oil pressure wants to be around 4 bar.

Let's see... my Turbo developed a bad idler roller bearing ('dry bearing' sound); a leaking coolant cap; the passenger side radiator fan motor shaft snapped and the flying hub/blade assembly dented the back surface of the radiator; the shifter linkage broke; the 6-speed transmission developed a leak around a selector shaft seal and the transmission was replaced; the clutch accumulator failed (the clutch pedal is hard to depress after the car has sat with the engine off for a while); the clutch slave cylinder failed (the clutch fluid reservior under the plastic panel under the front trunk will leak fluid and this is nasty fluid which can ruin rubber and possibly paint if it gets on either).

Now thankfully all of the above occured before 60K miles and the car was covered by a nice 2 year, 100K mile warranty so I paid for nothing. Check that: The battery failed and I had to pay for that... battery is not covered by the warranty.

After the test ride/drive if all goes well then arrange to have the car PPI'd. The test drive gives the car a chance to leak if it has any leaks and the PPI will have the car in teh air and can view all the lines/hoses/selector shaft seals, CV boots, and so on for any signs of any fluid leaks.

Sincerely,

Rockster.

[willmac]

Wouldn't be my first choice that's for sure.

[caymanred]

thinking this instead

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3297009.htm

[Steven_RW]

Caymanred: that looks fantastic value for money. Not comparing it particularly, just how the average person would perceive that to be a much more expensive car than it will cost.

I could have one as a summer car just for fun. Hard to deny! :-)

RW