993 c4 clutch change without taking engine out.£403.21.
Discussion
My 1996 993 c4 72000 miles was showing signs of needing a new clutch,heavy pedal and slipping in first gear during hard acceleration with associated smell!
The car is only used in summer so i thought i'd change the clutch over winter.
There are one or two DIY accounts of how to change the clutch but none on a 993 c4!
Some say "no way" as the prop shaft wont move forward enough.
Believe me,i've just completed it.
Not the easiest clutch change i've done,but possible.
The important thing is to "double nut" the long starter motor stud and remove it,this allows the bellhousing to clear the other shorter studs.
One other thing i've not seen mentioned is that the prop shaft outer housing has a peg locating it in the end of the gear box.When you remove the four bolts from the prop shaft housing (and the front diff central bolt}you need to split them apart by about 15mm.
If you feel you want to try doing this clutch change yourself contact me.
Some great pictures and advice for a c2 clutch by googling "993 transmission drop"
By the way,i think GSF made a mistake with the price of my OEM sachs clutch!
I would like to hear from anybody else who have done gear box removal only on a C4
160TIM
The car is only used in summer so i thought i'd change the clutch over winter.
There are one or two DIY accounts of how to change the clutch but none on a 993 c4!
Some say "no way" as the prop shaft wont move forward enough.
Believe me,i've just completed it.
Not the easiest clutch change i've done,but possible.
The important thing is to "double nut" the long starter motor stud and remove it,this allows the bellhousing to clear the other shorter studs.
One other thing i've not seen mentioned is that the prop shaft outer housing has a peg locating it in the end of the gear box.When you remove the four bolts from the prop shaft housing (and the front diff central bolt}you need to split them apart by about 15mm.
If you feel you want to try doing this clutch change yourself contact me.
Some great pictures and advice for a c2 clutch by googling "993 transmission drop"
By the way,i think GSF made a mistake with the price of my OEM sachs clutch!
I would like to hear from anybody else who have done gear box removal only on a C4
160TIM
Soul96C4 said:
My 1996 has a LWF. The clutch resently went out. I was reading your post, it said you changed your clutch without pulling your engine. Can you provide any key steps or photo's. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
Look on rennlist forum and search for DIY 993 transmission drop & LWF The post written by NSULLY with lots of pics is the one you want.
The only extra work for the c4 is to unbolt the front diff to allow it to move forward and the gear lever mounting on the torque tube.
If you need anymore advice call me on 07957 550660
Good luck,Tim
Yes,the engine has to pivot down at the bell housing end so the exhaust must be removed or at least loosened off,well remembered !
It pivots down until it touches the transferse rear cross member,that is enough clearance for the gearbox to be pulled forward. DONT let the weight of the transaxle be taken by the input shaft,its very heavy!
Support it front and rear as you pull it clear.
When putting it back in ensure you select first or second gear to allow you to align the input splines by turning drive shaft couplings.
I found it very difficult to push the gearbox fully home to the engine so used nuts on the studs to pull it fully together, use all the studs and do it a bit at a time,as per cylinder heads.
Follow the clutch release fork installation VERY carefully as you are working completely blind,you won't know if its right until you put the shaft back.
I used masking tape to hold it in position and it worked first time!The thought of removing the whole lot again made me take extra care at this crucial stage,
Give it a go,its not that difficult, and a new clutch makes all the difference.
Tim
It pivots down until it touches the transferse rear cross member,that is enough clearance for the gearbox to be pulled forward. DONT let the weight of the transaxle be taken by the input shaft,its very heavy!
Support it front and rear as you pull it clear.
When putting it back in ensure you select first or second gear to allow you to align the input splines by turning drive shaft couplings.
I found it very difficult to push the gearbox fully home to the engine so used nuts on the studs to pull it fully together, use all the studs and do it a bit at a time,as per cylinder heads.
Follow the clutch release fork installation VERY carefully as you are working completely blind,you won't know if its right until you put the shaft back.
I used masking tape to hold it in position and it worked first time!The thought of removing the whole lot again made me take extra care at this crucial stage,
Give it a go,its not that difficult, and a new clutch makes all the difference.
Tim
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