Bleed nipples corroded on brakes??
Discussion
Folks
Just had a call from OPC who are servicing my car - 997.1 Carrera S, minor service, 6 years old, under OPC warranty.
The OPC tells me that the nipples on the brake calipers are corroded (as are the wheel nuts) to the extent that they cannot remove them to change the brake oil. Worst case, they will need to replace nipples AND calipers, at £500/wheel. They are telling me that whatever the wheels have been cleaned with, this is the cause of the corrosion.
Car was bought from an OPC a year ago and is one year into the two year warranty, but servicing OPC (not the same one I bought it from) are telling me that this is not covered under warranty.
So, my dilemma is whether I might have any recourse to the OPC who sold me the car in the first place, since this is a problem that was inherent when I bought the car; I can sort of accept that it's not a warranty issue, but I would have hoped it was something the OPC would have picked up and dealt with before selling it to me, knowing that it was going to be a problem in the future.
What do we think? Do I just have to bite the bullet, or should i challenge the original OPC (or, indeed, Porsche themselves)?
Thanks
Steve
Just had a call from OPC who are servicing my car - 997.1 Carrera S, minor service, 6 years old, under OPC warranty.
The OPC tells me that the nipples on the brake calipers are corroded (as are the wheel nuts) to the extent that they cannot remove them to change the brake oil. Worst case, they will need to replace nipples AND calipers, at £500/wheel. They are telling me that whatever the wheels have been cleaned with, this is the cause of the corrosion.
Car was bought from an OPC a year ago and is one year into the two year warranty, but servicing OPC (not the same one I bought it from) are telling me that this is not covered under warranty.
So, my dilemma is whether I might have any recourse to the OPC who sold me the car in the first place, since this is a problem that was inherent when I bought the car; I can sort of accept that it's not a warranty issue, but I would have hoped it was something the OPC would have picked up and dealt with before selling it to me, knowing that it was going to be a problem in the future.
What do we think? Do I just have to bite the bullet, or should i challenge the original OPC (or, indeed, Porsche themselves)?
Thanks
Steve
..Had exactly this problem on my 996, all siezed up, fluid never been changed etc.. you need to soak the threads in penetrating fluid, cut the pipes off the nipples and keep banging the top of the nipple, then soak it again, leave it for a few hours, and repeat until they come loose, it takes a while, or easier to do with the caliper off the car carefully held in a vice ..
OPC will try to sell you £2000 worth of calipers as this process will clog a ramp up for a day.
OPC will try to sell you £2000 worth of calipers as this process will clog a ramp up for a day.
Edited by RatBoy M3CSL on Friday 15th June 14:10
SteveM46 said:
OK...that's good to hear, but presumably I would void my warranty if I brought it to you to sort out? 
But they have already said its not a warranty item.. If you think you might have a future problem with a window motor warranty claim been traced back to the 'non' original brake repair, then just use another Porsche garage..Brake Oil!! £2k for calipers due to stuck nipples...more like snake oil ! Time to find a good specialist ...after 5 yrs old , I actually start to feel they are better cars with a good specialist history than OPC, more TLC and known issues of this age of car than shiney temples of glass and steel.
Who is this useless OPC that can't remove corroded bleed nipples from calipers?
Aren't they meant to be fully trained mechanics? It's easy to remove siezed bolts/nuts/nipples - I'd be accusing them of being unprofessional to even contact you!
Even if they're siezed solid, drill them out, use an easy out kit/stud remover, thoroughly clean the recess, pump clean fluid through, replace nipples... Job's a good 'un!
Aren't they meant to be fully trained mechanics? It's easy to remove siezed bolts/nuts/nipples - I'd be accusing them of being unprofessional to even contact you!
Even if they're siezed solid, drill them out, use an easy out kit/stud remover, thoroughly clean the recess, pump clean fluid through, replace nipples... Job's a good 'un!
Jim1556 said:
Who is this useless OPC that can't remove corroded bleed nipples from calipers?
Aren't they meant to be fully trained mechanics? It's easy to remove siezed bolts/nuts/nipples - I'd be accusing them of being unprofessional to even contact you!
Even if they're siezed solid, drill them out, use an easy out kit/stud remover, thoroughly clean the recess, pump clean fluid through, replace nipples... Job's a good 'un!
If that was a normal bolt I'd do that. You just need to be very careful not to fill the caliper with swarf when drilling or next week you'll need a new seal kit even if you do try and pick it out with a magnet.Aren't they meant to be fully trained mechanics? It's easy to remove siezed bolts/nuts/nipples - I'd be accusing them of being unprofessional to even contact you!
Even if they're siezed solid, drill them out, use an easy out kit/stud remover, thoroughly clean the recess, pump clean fluid through, replace nipples... Job's a good 'un!
Had the same problem today at OPC, they won't attempt any removal without me undertaking to the risk of it snapping and £3600 for four new calipers. It sounds like they put a spanner on and unless it turns they stop. I can understand why, there is some big risks if they get it wrong having not warned the customer. I have to find a way round it, possible prolonged soaking in plus gas, maybe spot heating and rapid cooling. Take my time. Anyone have any other ideas?
It's not unusual for brake nipples to seize up. I would not drill them out and use an ease out to start with, as if the ease out snaps you will be in for a new caliper anyway.
For about a month or so spray each bleed nipple with penetrating oil. Then using a ring spanner first tighten the nipple fractionally. It should just budge. Then turn it slightly to get it to come out. Then turn it back to the sealing position. With each nipple free take it in for a fluid change and get them to fit new nipples at the same time.
For about a month or so spray each bleed nipple with penetrating oil. Then using a ring spanner first tighten the nipple fractionally. It should just budge. Then turn it slightly to get it to come out. Then turn it back to the sealing position. With each nipple free take it in for a fluid change and get them to fit new nipples at the same time.
As many have said this is an age old problem . Patience is the key to a successful outcome , soaking with penetrating oil , careful application of heat , tapping the end of the nipple gently and if space permits the use of a long socket preferably hexagon , to slowly gain movement clockwise and anticlockwise . In the main most will move without the need for new calipers or drilling .
LMV600 said:
As many have said this is an age old problem . Patience is the key to a successful outcome , soaking with penetrating oil , careful application of heat , tapping the end of the nipple gently and if space permits the use of a long socket preferably hexagon , to slowly gain movement clockwise and anticlockwise . In the main most will move without the need for new calipers or drilling .
The spanners on the right are the ONLY ones you should use on bleed nipples. 
WinstonWolf said:
LMV600 said:
As many have said this is an age old problem . Patience is the key to a successful outcome , soaking with penetrating oil , careful application of heat , tapping the end of the nipple gently and if space permits the use of a long socket preferably hexagon , to slowly gain movement clockwise and anticlockwise . In the main most will move without the need for new calipers or drilling .
The spanners on the right are the ONLY ones you should use on bleed nipples. For BLEED NIPPLES while they should still work fine the fact that they are open means that a deep hex socket will be even better. Possibly.
For what it's worth I don't believe a single bit about the loosening capabilities of any form of oil, with respect to seized parts.
A seized part is the result of a physical, mechanical lock between the two, in the main, caused by rust (oxides) or salts.
Oils have no effect on this mechanical lock as they do not dissolve any rust so you may as well let it soak for a decade. If oils had any such powers you would not put them in your gearboxes because the similar physical mechanical lock between intermeshing cogs would be lost...
That's not what oils are for, oils are lubes, oils and other fluids work by separating moving parts thus reducing friction.
Oils only have any effect once the lock is broken, in that they lube the now moving parts making further release easier.
Until the lock is broken you may as well use three Hail Marys for similar effectiveness.
There exist penetrating sprays with active ingredients that supposedly specifically dissolve rust, however I have tried them and the effectiveness is generally low.
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