I was replacing my wheel nuts and this happened....
Discussion
They were overdue for replacement by the look of it!
If it's just one, you may be able to work it loose by a gentle agitating of the wheel against the residue.
If this fails, you're going to have to drill it out. Use plenty of anti-seize spray, carefully drill a couple of holes on opposite sides and try to loosen with a pair of needle-nose/circlip pliers or knock it round with a centre punch.. If this fails, drill more holes around the circumference and knock the material away with a hammer and thin chisel. You could also try heat to loosen it.
If all this fails, you'll need to sacrifice the stud and drill the whole thing out.
Good luck.
If it's just one, you may be able to work it loose by a gentle agitating of the wheel against the residue.
If this fails, you're going to have to drill it out. Use plenty of anti-seize spray, carefully drill a couple of holes on opposite sides and try to loosen with a pair of needle-nose/circlip pliers or knock it round with a centre punch.. If this fails, drill more holes around the circumference and knock the material away with a hammer and thin chisel. You could also try heat to loosen it.
If all this fails, you'll need to sacrifice the stud and drill the whole thing out.
Good luck.
Do not under any circumstances drive!!
Same happened to me and I went for a drive in the remaining nuts. I started to hear a "scoring" noise and just as I was stopping to reverse into driveway the entire car just "seized". Turned out it was the remainder of the nut working loose and going out the other side. It lodged between the wheel and brakes and I was told if it had happened while driving at speed I'd probably have run off the road
Drill it out, worry about the cost later
Same happened to me and I went for a drive in the remaining nuts. I started to hear a "scoring" noise and just as I was stopping to reverse into driveway the entire car just "seized". Turned out it was the remainder of the nut working loose and going out the other side. It lodged between the wheel and brakes and I was told if it had happened while driving at speed I'd probably have run off the road
Drill it out, worry about the cost later
D900SP said:
Use a hole saw, I think either 5/8" or 3/4" (without the pilot drill) and it will drill out the residue of the wheel nut. It will not damage the wheel.
Replace all the wheel nuts, use a sparing amount of anti-seize on the nut cone and threads and torque to 130Nm.
Can I buy a hole saw at Halfords? Replace all the wheel nuts, use a sparing amount of anti-seize on the nut cone and threads and torque to 130Nm.
D900SP said:
Use a hole saw, I think either 5/8" or 3/4" (without the pilot drill) and it will drill out the residue of the wheel nut. It will not damage the wheel.
Replace all the wheel nuts, use a sparing amount of anti-seize on the nut cone and threads and torque to 130Nm.
But wouldn't this still leave what is effectively a stud still in the hub? Not had this exact problem myself, but would have likely done a combination of what Lancerlot said but use a stud extractor (aka "easy-outs") once there was some meat for it to bite into.Replace all the wheel nuts, use a sparing amount of anti-seize on the nut cone and threads and torque to 130Nm.
I'm probably missing the obvious but wouldn't using a hole saw would clear the alloy wheel yet still leave the stud in the hub?
Here is what's left on the wheel.
Because of the bell shape of the Porsche wheel nuts I am unsure whether a hole saw would leave an annoying shaped section on the threaded stud?
I read (above) that I shouldn't drive the car while the nut is broken. So I will have to try something myself or call the AA out. Actually, I guess that the AA will have seen this many times before.
Because of the bell shape of the Porsche wheel nuts I am unsure whether a hole saw would leave an annoying shaped section on the threaded stud?
I read (above) that I shouldn't drive the car while the nut is broken. So I will have to try something myself or call the AA out. Actually, I guess that the AA will have seen this many times before.
Popolou said:
But wouldn't this still leave what is effectively a stud still in the hub? Not had this exact problem myself, but would have likely done a combination of what Lancerlot said but use a stud extractor (aka "easy-outs") once there was some meat for it to bite into.
I'm probably missing the obvious but wouldn't using a hole saw would clear the alloy wheel yet still leave the stud in the hub?
Yes, you will never drill the stud out (and there is no need to).I'm probably missing the obvious but wouldn't using a hole saw would clear the alloy wheel yet still leave the stud in the hub?
The hole saw cuts out the residue of the wheel nut and allows the wheel to be removed without damaging the stud thread or the wheel.
As above you could CAREFULLY drill what's left out with a holesaw without the 'guide bit' in place. The material the wheel nuts are made from is actually quite brittle and should drill fairly easily.
Disclaimer: This is just advice, if you damage your wheel(s) I won't be held responsible.
This is what I'd do if it was me...
- Obviously you'll need a holesaw deep enough to reach without fouling the outer face of the wheel.
- Choose a holesaw with an internal diameter a little larger than the diameter of the stud and use the stud as a guide. You could even wrap the stud with a layer of insulating/gaffer tape to protect the thread.
- Also wrap the outside of the holesaw with plenty of tape so you don't damage your wheel.
- Don't go too deep and drill your alloy wheel!
- Once you've drilled out the remainder of the nuts the wheel should come off.
- You'll then need to carefully remove the 'collar' which might be left on the stud with careful use of a junior hacksaw or small cold chisel.
- The 19mm or 22mm holesaw in this kit from Tool Station might do it, depending on whether they're deep enough. It says it's for cutting holes in steel, cast iron, bronze, etc so should be able to cope with wheel nuts. (There are tool stations all over the UK, or you might find similar at Machine Mart or local tool shops).
- Good luck!
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power%20Tool%20Acc...
Disclaimer: This is just advice, if you damage your wheel(s) I won't be held responsible.
This is what I'd do if it was me...
- Obviously you'll need a holesaw deep enough to reach without fouling the outer face of the wheel.
- Choose a holesaw with an internal diameter a little larger than the diameter of the stud and use the stud as a guide. You could even wrap the stud with a layer of insulating/gaffer tape to protect the thread.
- Also wrap the outside of the holesaw with plenty of tape so you don't damage your wheel.
- Don't go too deep and drill your alloy wheel!
- Once you've drilled out the remainder of the nuts the wheel should come off.
- You'll then need to carefully remove the 'collar' which might be left on the stud with careful use of a junior hacksaw or small cold chisel.
- The 19mm or 22mm holesaw in this kit from Tool Station might do it, depending on whether they're deep enough. It says it's for cutting holes in steel, cast iron, bronze, etc so should be able to cope with wheel nuts. (There are tool stations all over the UK, or you might find similar at Machine Mart or local tool shops).
- Good luck!
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power%20Tool%20Acc...
Edited by RSGulp on Sunday 24th June 13:55
Bennachie said:
Anti clockwise wheel bolt/nut remover. Used for removing locking nuts. It will whizz it off. Check net for ads.
Good luck with that, there is no nut left as can be seen in the photo.The remaining part is the round cone end.
The wheel nut removing sockets don't fit in the deep well of the Porsche wheels either.
I use a hole saw quite alot through work.
I'm a bit gobsmacked by the responses to use one. I would never thought you could hold one accurate enough not to damage the wheel, especially when it comes to not drilling too deep, as I'm guessing you can't see what depth your drilling at whilst drilling it out.
I'm a bit gobsmacked by the responses to use one. I would never thought you could hold one accurate enough not to damage the wheel, especially when it comes to not drilling too deep, as I'm guessing you can't see what depth your drilling at whilst drilling it out.
I would have expected a hole saw to be very hard to use held by hand without mayhem in the wheel and on the stud. I don't think I'd try one. Not got an answer though. I'd be on the phone to my local Indy.
Regards the nut coming lose and going out the other side when driving, I'm struggling to visualise that!
BB
Regards the nut coming lose and going out the other side when driving, I'm struggling to visualise that!
BB
I would think it's possible but 'carefully' is the key. If the internal diameter was a little larger than the threaded stud, the stud was protected with tape, and the holesaw was wrapped with duck tape so it couldn't rub against the wheel. The holesaw could be marked for depth so the OP knows when he's getting close to the wheel, then softly, softly from that point.
I can't think of any other suggestions other than take the car to an indy - who'll may do the same or most probably end up damaging the wheel. If it was my car I'd do it myself with care.
I can't think of any other suggestions other than take the car to an indy - who'll may do the same or most probably end up damaging the wheel. If it was my car I'd do it myself with care.
RSGulp said:
I guess plan B might be for an indy to put a steel nut onto the visible stud, then carefully weld it to the stud, then hope to remove the stud from the hub using an impact wrench? Still some risk in damaging the wheel though...
The stud is splined into the hub, can only be removed by pressing (or hammering) it inwards. 
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