Swisvax paint sealant
Discussion
If it were me , I should keep my hand in my pocket. Buy a top quality sealant (possibly even Swissvax) and apply it myself every six months.
More effort on my part but the best part of £460 in my back pocket to spend on fuel whilst driving my Porsche the way it should be driven.
PS.
It will (does) still look stunning.
However, we are all different - thankfully.
More effort on my part but the best part of £460 in my back pocket to spend on fuel whilst driving my Porsche the way it should be driven.
PS.
It will (does) still look stunning.
However, we are all different - thankfully.
I got it for free and can say i hate the stuff. took me ages to get off. I have now gone back to what i know best and use autoglym polish.
I suppose it depends on how good you are at cleaning your car. The swisvax is just a wax finish, i spent about £200 on dojo juice bits for my last car and got the same results. I ended up going back to autoglym with that car. The problem is everytime you wash it with the shampoo it leaves the paint with watermarks that you just cant budge, once leathered the paint and especially windows feel rough and not smooth (which is the opposite of what a "super wax" should feel like) Maybe im just a complete nob at washing cars but i will never go back to wax and will stick with plain old polish. My car is 2 months old and i'm on about my 6th polish and still getting water marks off of the paint. I will probably just see the winter through and get the car detailed in the spring ( as long as they dont put that s
t wax back on)
I suppose it depends on how good you are at cleaning your car. The swisvax is just a wax finish, i spent about £200 on dojo juice bits for my last car and got the same results. I ended up going back to autoglym with that car. The problem is everytime you wash it with the shampoo it leaves the paint with watermarks that you just cant budge, once leathered the paint and especially windows feel rough and not smooth (which is the opposite of what a "super wax" should feel like) Maybe im just a complete nob at washing cars but i will never go back to wax and will stick with plain old polish. My car is 2 months old and i'm on about my 6th polish and still getting water marks off of the paint. I will probably just see the winter through and get the car detailed in the spring ( as long as they dont put that s
t wax back on)Edited by Scott Parker on Saturday 3rd November 20:30
£460 ? The last step product has next to zero influence on the result. It's all about the prep. A freshly corrected paintwork with zero swirl will always look 10 times better without anything on it than a £2,000 wax on a swirl infested car. 10g worth of sealant cost next to nothing and take 10mn to apply and buff off.
I hope they simply subcontract a good local detailer (who happens to be a Swiss wax stockist, which in no way guarantees the quality of the result) BUT this means that they only pay him £200 or so (possibly less?), which means that he will at best only give it a 1-stage polish, or possibly simply glaze it.
I hope they simply subcontract a good local detailer (who happens to be a Swiss wax stockist, which in no way guarantees the quality of the result) BUT this means that they only pay him £200 or so (possibly less?), which means that he will at best only give it a 1-stage polish, or possibly simply glaze it.
Scott Parker said:
I suppose it depends on how good you are at cleaning your car. The swisvax is just a wax finish, i spent about £200 on dojo juice bits for my last car and got the same results. I ended up going back to autoglym with that car. The problem is everytime you wash it with the shampoo it leaves the paint with watermarks that you just cant budge, once leathered the paint and especially windows feel rough and not smooth (which is the opposite of what a "super wax" should feel like) Maybe im just a complete nob at washing cars but i will never go back to wax and will stick with plain old polish. My car is 2 months old and i'm on about my 6th polish and still getting water marks off of the paint. I will probably just see the winter through and get the car detailed in the spring ( as long as they dont put that st wax back on)
Scott a polish is very different to a wax. The polish will cut the clear coat to remove hazing/swirling and the wax (or sealant) is the next and final protection step. If you use AG Super Resin Polish, it's a AIO (All In One), which is actually brilliant for the money. It also glazes the remaining swirls (like a filler) to hide them. t wax back on)You shouldn't get water marks if you use a dedicated quality drying towel, like this one http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-luxury-... You can also use AG Extra Gloss Protection as a sealant AFTER SRP. It will help dispel water and minimise the amount of work with the towel.
HTH.
Swiss wax products are the best in the business. I had my car done by Porsche West London and they charged £400 for it.
In hindsight, I would still use the Swiss wax stuff but would do it myself, claying it first and then using the cleaner and wax. Spend the £400 on the products.
The products are expensive but are fantastic quality and last a long time.
In hindsight, I would still use the Swiss wax stuff but would do it myself, claying it first and then using the cleaner and wax. Spend the £400 on the products.
The products are expensive but are fantastic quality and last a long time.
Hi, does that price include the paint correction work and then the wax application or is it just the wax...?
A detail job with a high end wax application will cost anywhere from £350 upwards depending on the amount of prep work and quality of products. The Swissvax is very good and I have had all my Porsche's done at some point or another.
Have also had very good results with Autosmart hi-def wax on Gt3.
Personally I would not bother and get it done by a professional detailing outfit.
Mike
A detail job with a high end wax application will cost anywhere from £350 upwards depending on the amount of prep work and quality of products. The Swissvax is very good and I have had all my Porsche's done at some point or another.
Have also had very good results with Autosmart hi-def wax on Gt3.
Personally I would not bother and get it done by a professional detailing outfit.
Mike
I've used Swissvax on all my cars over the last 10 years.
All of them metallic and had great results.
However, two of my current cars are solid paint finish and using Swissvax seems to be no better than using something like Werkstad acrylic, which is a fair bit cheaper and easier to use.
I've just started using Autoglym on one of them and am very happy with the result (although not the residue that you don't get with Swissvax).
All of them metallic and had great results.
However, two of my current cars are solid paint finish and using Swissvax seems to be no better than using something like Werkstad acrylic, which is a fair bit cheaper and easier to use.
I've just started using Autoglym on one of them and am very happy with the result (although not the residue that you don't get with Swissvax).
I've got into detailing over the last couple of years, building up and learning as I go. I went straight into looking at all things swissvax, but it is expensive to keep on top of product renewal.
That opened my eyes to realising that doing a good job on the car can involve using a mix and match of products. Even professionals don't always go for the big name, expensive products as they may not do the best job.
I decided to put my money into doing the job myself rather than always sending the car off to the detailer. If I had a real quality detailer near me, that might be different. But now I know exactly what is going on the car, though it is obviously harder work and days are lost to cleaning the car!
I don't let my OPC wash or hoover my car after a service, let alone do a detail.
That sort of money will buy a fair bit of kit that will last you quite a long time.
That opened my eyes to realising that doing a good job on the car can involve using a mix and match of products. Even professionals don't always go for the big name, expensive products as they may not do the best job.
I decided to put my money into doing the job myself rather than always sending the car off to the detailer. If I had a real quality detailer near me, that might be different. But now I know exactly what is going on the car, though it is obviously harder work and days are lost to cleaning the car!
I don't let my OPC wash or hoover my car after a service, let alone do a detail.
That sort of money will buy a fair bit of kit that will last you quite a long time.
Save you money as it will be a lottery as to how the finished result comes out and whether you get the full paint correction prior to the application of the wax. Even if you plump for it you will end up having to top it off every 6 months or so depending on where your car is kept , how many times you wash it etc etc.
You can also forget all the expensive big name stuff with funky advertising and the premium look to go with the premium price. All you need here :
COLINITE 476s WAX http://www.shipshapenorfolkltd.co.uk/ect/proddetai...
Having used this stuff after reading all the hype it gets by those in the know. Seriously impressed with the results and the protection it gives. The car looks cleaner after just a simple jet wash.
You can also forget all the expensive big name stuff with funky advertising and the premium look to go with the premium price. All you need here :
COLINITE 476s WAX http://www.shipshapenorfolkltd.co.uk/ect/proddetai...
Having used this stuff after reading all the hype it gets by those in the know. Seriously impressed with the results and the protection it gives. The car looks cleaner after just a simple jet wash.
Their waxes only give a couple of months of durability so they do need topping up on regular basis (ideally every 2-3 months), alternatively you could have a ceramic (Gtechniq C1) or glass coating (22PLE) applied that will give better protection against the elements and will last up to 2 years and is very easy to maintain.
In most dealerships the valeters are given minimal time and little training in how to prepare and protect your new pride and joy so best option would be to get a professional detailer to do the work as they will spend far more time preparing your car and will ensure the finish is perfect before applying the protection.
In most dealerships the valeters are given minimal time and little training in how to prepare and protect your new pride and joy so best option would be to get a professional detailer to do the work as they will spend far more time preparing your car and will ensure the finish is perfect before applying the protection.
Far better to get a detailer to properly correct and apply the wax. Mine spent two days removing the swirls etc and applying Swissvax for £500.
See previous thread and choose nearest do some research - they all come recommended and are likely to do a far better job than any opc. http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t...
Btw once you have had it detailed, get your products from a decent place such as polish bliss, and don't let your local opc clean it after a service - they will more than likely put swirls back on!
rubystone said:
DEANO87 said:
You would be better off spending the cash with a proper Detailer on a new car protection detail.
Totally spot-on. A-Glaze is one option. These are not waxes we are talking about, BTWGassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff