GT3 Mk1 CLUBSPORT alarm + wiring diagrams?
Discussion
Hi lads, really need some help here. Long post but if you think you may be able to help, please read on. Thanks.
Further to my thread about my GT3 not starting, we have made some developments but have not cured it.
I'm after a wiring diagram for the alarm (I know it's a long shot), large cut-off solenoid (Clubsport only) and for the cut-off switches. I think they'll be linked.
Basically, main battery feed goes to a big solenoid to the side of the battery. Big feed in, big feed out on one end, with 4 small wires on the other end.
My alarm does nothing when pushing the key, since it went off when I opened the door on Monday. My indy said to eliminate the solenoid, so we bolted the main feed in and out together. The car then had power and dash lights.
Great we thought, but then I tried to start it. Nothing. No fuel pump priming, no starter, nothing.
We then began looking at the other end of the solenoid. There's a diagram on it explaining things, so we took a 12v feed from the battery via a piece of wire and touched the relevant small terminal on the solenoid. It clicked and hey presto I could start the car. That says to us, the solenoid is fine and functioning correctly.
The alarm still wouldn't work though at all so here is what I'm trying to find out -
My indy is adamant it's the solenoid, but how come when we give it power everything on the car works bar the alarm?
We think the solenoid gets a 12v feed from the alarm unit to then power the car, but only once the alarm lets it obviously. This feed must come through the dash/bonnet cut-offs too. Any ideas?
The small power lead to the solenoid, the one we're replicating straight from the battery is red and white. If we can find out what feeds this, we'll be on our way again.
Now my indy says if I've tried to use my key button more than 20 times, which I may have, the alarm will block it, hence I need a new key. I need a spare anyway, but don't want to spend £200 to find out the alarm is kaputt. Why did it go off the first time anyway, then not respond to my key.
This could also be problem.
Anyway, thanks in advance if anyone has any ideas. This can't be the first MK1 CS that this has happened too, surely.
Cheers, Mark.
ETA - I see bold doesn't work in the title.
Further to my thread about my GT3 not starting, we have made some developments but have not cured it.
I'm after a wiring diagram for the alarm (I know it's a long shot), large cut-off solenoid (Clubsport only) and for the cut-off switches. I think they'll be linked.
Basically, main battery feed goes to a big solenoid to the side of the battery. Big feed in, big feed out on one end, with 4 small wires on the other end.
My alarm does nothing when pushing the key, since it went off when I opened the door on Monday. My indy said to eliminate the solenoid, so we bolted the main feed in and out together. The car then had power and dash lights.
Great we thought, but then I tried to start it. Nothing. No fuel pump priming, no starter, nothing.
We then began looking at the other end of the solenoid. There's a diagram on it explaining things, so we took a 12v feed from the battery via a piece of wire and touched the relevant small terminal on the solenoid. It clicked and hey presto I could start the car. That says to us, the solenoid is fine and functioning correctly.
The alarm still wouldn't work though at all so here is what I'm trying to find out -
My indy is adamant it's the solenoid, but how come when we give it power everything on the car works bar the alarm?
We think the solenoid gets a 12v feed from the alarm unit to then power the car, but only once the alarm lets it obviously. This feed must come through the dash/bonnet cut-offs too. Any ideas?
The small power lead to the solenoid, the one we're replicating straight from the battery is red and white. If we can find out what feeds this, we'll be on our way again.
Now my indy says if I've tried to use my key button more than 20 times, which I may have, the alarm will block it, hence I need a new key. I need a spare anyway, but don't want to spend £200 to find out the alarm is kaputt. Why did it go off the first time anyway, then not respond to my key.
This could also be problem.
Anyway, thanks in advance if anyone has any ideas. This can't be the first MK1 CS that this has happened too, surely.
Cheers, Mark.
ETA - I see bold doesn't work in the title.
Edited by marky911 on Saturday 24th November 12:49
I can get you the wiring diagrams in a bit if you want? Out at the mo with littl'un while SWMBO is shopping (we don't like shopping 
)
The solenoid cuts the main feed but the security functions should still function (alarm windows etc should feed off the other side of the solenoid - a bit like the old dis-car-nect battery terminals that kept memory functions alive but immobilised the starter etc....)
Key synchronicity thing is a red herring - to resync put key in ignition, ignition on and press and hold lock button.
Check alarm ecu for water ingress?
Diagrams on the way once I get in...........
)The solenoid cuts the main feed but the security functions should still function (alarm windows etc should feed off the other side of the solenoid - a bit like the old dis-car-nect battery terminals that kept memory functions alive but immobilised the starter etc....)
Key synchronicity thing is a red herring - to resync put key in ignition, ignition on and press and hold lock button.
Check alarm ecu for water ingress?
Diagrams on the way once I get in...........
We now know that the red and white wire that should be a 12v feed definitely comes from the underbonnet kill switch and before that the centre console switch.
We now need to know where it comes from before that. Our guess is the alarm unit.
Hopefully the diagrams will shed some light on things.
There is a fuseable link over the end of the solenoid (barely noticeable) that has broken. We linked the terminals (quickly obviously until we know what they do) but it altered nothing. We now need to see if this is available seperately from the solenoid or not. I'm guessing the latter.
Alternatively we need to know the rating eg 20 amp, to make a wire link with fuse holder built in.
Tried the key-to-alarm reboot thing. Turned ignition on, held button in on key. LED on dash-top flashed quickly and constantly while button was pushed (tried twice, once for 5 secs, once for 10). Altered nothing though.
We're just guessing now though, until we see the diagrams.
very strange this and it's happened before, although not in my mates possesion. The wires on the solenoid are all labelled up and when we got to the centre console switch to check continuity, the coating had been peeled back on the wire.
Someone has been here before us and I hate that type of fault. Oh well, we continue...
We now need to know where it comes from before that. Our guess is the alarm unit.
Hopefully the diagrams will shed some light on things.
There is a fuseable link over the end of the solenoid (barely noticeable) that has broken. We linked the terminals (quickly obviously until we know what they do) but it altered nothing. We now need to see if this is available seperately from the solenoid or not. I'm guessing the latter.
Alternatively we need to know the rating eg 20 amp, to make a wire link with fuse holder built in.
Tried the key-to-alarm reboot thing. Turned ignition on, held button in on key. LED on dash-top flashed quickly and constantly while button was pushed (tried twice, once for 5 secs, once for 10). Altered nothing though.
We're just guessing now though, until we see the diagrams.
very strange this and it's happened before, although not in my mates possesion. The wires on the solenoid are all labelled up and when we got to the centre console switch to check continuity, the coating had been peeled back on the wire.
Someone has been here before us and I hate that type of fault. Oh well, we continue...
Edited by marky911 on Saturday 24th November 15:13
I just want to update this thread incase anyone ever has the same problems as I've had and stumbles across this old thread via Google or something.
Not particularly interesting to anyone who isn't having the alarm problems I've had, so I'm just warning you not to waste your time reading.
Car is now sorted, phew!
Basically the bulk of the problem was the blue 15 amp mini blade fuse located in the side of the alarm control unit, which lives under the passenger seat.
This was blown which resulted in no 12v feed to the solenoid beside the battery via the cut-off switches and no response from my alarm at all.
The other problem was the broken component on the end of the solenoid that we originally thought was a fuseable link, however this is in actual fact a diode (a one way gate for electrical flow). It stops power going the wrong way around the solenoid when it's switched on, but allows "leftover" electricity to bleed back into it the system when it's switched off. This is to prevent an electrical "spike" flowing back to the alarm and damaging something, like the fuse obviously.
Replacing the 15 amp mini-blade fuse was easy, as was buying the replacement fuse from my local car parts shop.
The diode proved difficult though as my local OPC couldn't even find the whole solenoid assembly let alone the diode off the end.
Luckily Fioran0 off here knows his onions and recommended a modern equivalent diode available from Maplins etc.
It's a 1N4007 diode. Costs about 30p. I soldered this to the old mounting lugs (after removing the snapped item) and all is well. It is important which way round the diode goes obviously, as like I say it lets current flow one way only.
The end with the band around is the negative. Electricity can flow through from pos to neg only.
Anyway, below are a few pictures of the relevant parts. This is relevant to the Clubsport only! as the comfort spec cars do not have the solenoid. The solenoid is purely there for the cut-off switches to be able to kill everything when required.
First couple of pics are blurry, but I didn't realise until I got back in the house.
First pic showing the blown fuse, snapped old style diode and new replacement diode.
This pic shows the new diode mounted onto the end of the solenoid. It's the thin wire with small cylinder on that runs between the two big terminals. Sorry it's blurry.
This is the solenoid mounted back on its bracket which also doubles up as the battery clamp. I took the opportunity to refurb this while it was out.
You can see one leg of the diode running down to its terminal.
Finally the whole assembly wired up and mounted back where it goes, next to battery. Will clean all of this area out over winter, but just wanted to get everything working again today.
So that's it, hopefully this will help someone out in the future.
My key is still fine although I still need to buy a spare anyway.
Basically if you ever encounter your alarm going off and not reponding to your key along with a very dead car follow these steps.
1) Check your under bonnet cut-off toggle switch. Forward pointing means power can flow.
2) Check your centre console cut-off push switch. Depressed means power can flow. Raised means power is cut.
3) If it's not those check your blue fuse in the alarm control unit under pass. seat (RHD cars). Single posi screw to undo unit and slide it out from under back of seat.
If your fuse blows repeatedly, check that diode on the end of the solenoid.
I'd just like to say a big thanks to Pope and Fioran0 for forwarding me the wiring diagrams that proved vital and also for the technical help with regard to components, etc. If it wasn't for these guys I'd possibly still be scratching my head in the garage. Although actually my dad helped a lot too and he's a whizz with electrics. Pistonheads has proved invaluable again though.
Cheers.
ETA - It is an easy test to check if your solenoid is functioning. Take a piece of wire from the positive battery terminal and touch it on the feed in terminal on the solenoid (4 small terminals on other end to major feed and it's the red and white wire going to it). You should hear the solenoid click.
If you're convinced your solenoid is broken the part number is 996.612.227.96.
I thought I better add that given how hard it was for my OPC to find it.
Not particularly interesting to anyone who isn't having the alarm problems I've had, so I'm just warning you not to waste your time reading.
Car is now sorted, phew!
Basically the bulk of the problem was the blue 15 amp mini blade fuse located in the side of the alarm control unit, which lives under the passenger seat.
This was blown which resulted in no 12v feed to the solenoid beside the battery via the cut-off switches and no response from my alarm at all.
The other problem was the broken component on the end of the solenoid that we originally thought was a fuseable link, however this is in actual fact a diode (a one way gate for electrical flow). It stops power going the wrong way around the solenoid when it's switched on, but allows "leftover" electricity to bleed back into it the system when it's switched off. This is to prevent an electrical "spike" flowing back to the alarm and damaging something, like the fuse obviously.
Replacing the 15 amp mini-blade fuse was easy, as was buying the replacement fuse from my local car parts shop.
The diode proved difficult though as my local OPC couldn't even find the whole solenoid assembly let alone the diode off the end.
Luckily Fioran0 off here knows his onions and recommended a modern equivalent diode available from Maplins etc.
It's a 1N4007 diode. Costs about 30p. I soldered this to the old mounting lugs (after removing the snapped item) and all is well. It is important which way round the diode goes obviously, as like I say it lets current flow one way only.
The end with the band around is the negative. Electricity can flow through from pos to neg only.
Anyway, below are a few pictures of the relevant parts. This is relevant to the Clubsport only! as the comfort spec cars do not have the solenoid. The solenoid is purely there for the cut-off switches to be able to kill everything when required.
First couple of pics are blurry, but I didn't realise until I got back in the house.
First pic showing the blown fuse, snapped old style diode and new replacement diode.
This pic shows the new diode mounted onto the end of the solenoid. It's the thin wire with small cylinder on that runs between the two big terminals. Sorry it's blurry.
This is the solenoid mounted back on its bracket which also doubles up as the battery clamp. I took the opportunity to refurb this while it was out.
You can see one leg of the diode running down to its terminal.
Finally the whole assembly wired up and mounted back where it goes, next to battery. Will clean all of this area out over winter, but just wanted to get everything working again today.
So that's it, hopefully this will help someone out in the future.
My key is still fine although I still need to buy a spare anyway.
Basically if you ever encounter your alarm going off and not reponding to your key along with a very dead car follow these steps.
1) Check your under bonnet cut-off toggle switch. Forward pointing means power can flow.
2) Check your centre console cut-off push switch. Depressed means power can flow. Raised means power is cut.
3) If it's not those check your blue fuse in the alarm control unit under pass. seat (RHD cars). Single posi screw to undo unit and slide it out from under back of seat.
If your fuse blows repeatedly, check that diode on the end of the solenoid.
I'd just like to say a big thanks to Pope and Fioran0 for forwarding me the wiring diagrams that proved vital and also for the technical help with regard to components, etc. If it wasn't for these guys I'd possibly still be scratching my head in the garage. Although actually my dad helped a lot too and he's a whizz with electrics. Pistonheads has proved invaluable again though.
Cheers.
ETA - It is an easy test to check if your solenoid is functioning. Take a piece of wire from the positive battery terminal and touch it on the feed in terminal on the solenoid (4 small terminals on other end to major feed and it's the red and white wire going to it). You should hear the solenoid click.
If you're convinced your solenoid is broken the part number is 996.612.227.96.
I thought I better add that given how hard it was for my OPC to find it.
Edited by marky911 on Sunday 9th December 19:26
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