911T or E?

[Binksboy]

Looking for help/advice.....I'm thinking of importing a 911T or E from the USA has anyone any experience of doing this? Which is the more desirable model? Carbs, injection which is better. Got my eye on a 72 911T with S trim as supplied originally from the factory, very original rust free condition the owner wants £25000 before import costs any info/advice most appreciated.

[GC8]

The difference between E and S isnt great, but theres a chasm between an E and a T. Lower spec interior mechanicals with carbs and a far lower output.

If youre making a racer or recreation then Id buy the cheapest car, but otherwise Id avoid a T.

Edited by GC8 on Sunday 30th December 22:24

[hot66]

GC8 said:

The difference between E and S isnt great, but theres a chasm between an E and a T. Lower spec interior mechanicals with carbs and a far lower output.

If youre making a racer or reacreation then Id buy the cheapest car, but otherwise Id avoid a T.

Not true. Later USA T's came with mfi fuel injection and the very late 73.5 came with cis . a t could be specked up to s level so interior etc the same.

A decent t is a nice driving car, it depends what you want out of it.

Op ...are you buying for yourself or to resell on?

[hot66]

... Best get yourself onto Ddk for more info

[BertBert]

It feels like a US "T" with mfi must be a good way to go. To get from there to a 2.4 on mfi with the right size thottle bodies, S (or sim) cams, high compression and twin plugs feels relatively easy!

Bert

Edited by BertBert on Sunday 30th December 17:38

[GC8]

The greater majority of Ts are as I described. They were usually in a poorer state of repair, too. Id still go for an E wherever possible.

[Geneve]

Agree, the 'E' performance is much better than a 'T' on carbs. Some US 'T's did have injection (part way through '73 MY, IIRC), but the 'E' will always be perceived as more desirable.

However, buy carefully. There are many expensive pitfalls. DDK is your friend.

[anonymous-user]

"Original rust free" is often an oxymoron - if it is original it is likely to have some rust, even from sunshine state. There have been some horror stories imported from States. DDK is your friend.


Edited to add: E every time if you can afford it.

Edited by drmark on Sunday 30th December 18:30

Edited by drmark on Sunday 30th December 18:37

[Binksboy]

Thanks for feedback, car is a keeper not for resale will look more into Es.

[graemel]

Hi Sam. I'd also plump for an E over a T. From experience make sure you get the car independantly inspected by a specialist out there that can verify that you are buying the car you think you are.

[hot66]

If it was me and I had the choice between the two, then I would also go for the E .

[shoestring7]

BertBert said:

It feels like a US "T" with mfi must be a good way to go. To get from there to a 2.4 on mfi with the right size thottle bodies, S (or sim) cams, high compression and twin plugs feels relatively easy!

Bert

Edited by BertBert on Sunday 30th December 17:38

To get the E's 165bhp you will need pistons, barrels and headwork as well as mfi tuning. Not always that straightforward or very cheap; around £10k - £14k with a good specialist.

For a keeper I suggest the OP look for a good 'E', but may expect to pay up to 2x the price of a 'T'. Its not twice the car...

As far as importing goes, this is surprisingly straightforward, and you should be able to get it here at the 5% VAT rate for 'historic' cars.

Speak to these people who do it all the time and who have a good reputation (I can recommend them):

Kingstown Shipping Ltd, Ferry Berth | King George Dock | Hull | HU9 5PS Tel: [phone] www.kingstownshipping.co.uk


SS7