Cayenne ppi - essential or not?!

[anonymous-user]

looking to pull the trigger one of a few that ive already conducted background diligence on etc but to save time and hassle im wondering if i need to really get a ramp based ppi done

of all the known weakspots of the cayenne which ones would only surface with a ramp based inspection

im well known for being able to do a fairly good job with the vehicle being stationery but wondering how critical leak down / compression test would be and the only other thing is that it would be ideal to get the ramp based inspection so bores can be inspected?

[Rockster]

RC1 said:

looking to pull the trigger one of a few that ive already conducted background diligence on etc but to save time and hassle im wondering if i need to really get a ramp based ppi done

of all the known weakspots of the cayenne which ones would only surface with a ramp based inspection

im well known for being able to do a fairly good job with the vehicle being stationery but wondering how critical leak down / compression test would be and the only other thing is that it would be ideal to get the ramp based inspection so bores can be inspected?

A leak down/compression test won't even tell you if the engine will run only that it will crank.

No leak down or compression test necessary if you can experience the vehicle by riding in the vehicle and then driving the vehicle.

While the engine is running the DME constantly checks each cylinder for misfires which is an under (or over) performing cylinder.

Have you visited the vehicle and had a test ride then a test drive?

What is then nice about having the car PPI'd is after the test ride/drive leaks if there are any are likely to be in more evidence after the test ride and drive compared to before the test ride and drive.

If you want to forego the PPI at least arrange for the seller to get the vehicle in the air so you can view the underside of the vehicle for any signs of fluid leaks, underbody accident damage, bent or damaged or worn suspension or steering or drive train components, etc.

[SEE YA]

I am still still looking for one, in black myself around 06/07.

In my research so far the things that pop up the most as follows.
Coolant pipes, propshaft banging under load, coilpacks.
Anyone that knows of anything else please add I am sure there are a few more.

[anonymous-user]

SEE YA said:

I am still still looking for one, in black myself around 06/07.

In my research so far the things that pop up the most as follows.
Coolant pipes, propshaft banging under load, coilpacks.
Anyone that knows of anything else please add I am sure there are a few more.

there is a piece of trim at the bottom edge of each door that is prone to corrosion. was the subject of a recall

also add waterpump

pads/discs are significant expenses as are tyres

pipes are typically about 1000 parts and labour, pshaft bearing about 300 parts and labour if go the toureg diy route option

[Luke.]

Pads and discs aren't that expensive. Project Nine just replaced my rear ones for £350 all in. Not too bad.

Edited by Luke. on Sunday 7th July 19:15

[thegoose]

Rockster said:

No leak down or compression test necessary if you can experience the vehicle by riding in the vehicle and then driving the vehicle.

With all due respect that's not good advice at all. My 964 rode and drove perfectly, even showing the right maximum power on the rolling road it was set up last time it was rebuilt, but the reality was that the engine showed cylinder leakage of well over 25% on at least 2 cylinders and actually expired not many running hours thereafter.

By your method it would have passed your inspection fine, but then needed a full rebuild within 5 or 6 hours of use!

[rimkah]

Lots to go wrong so yes, better yet look for one with warranty.

I used my turbo daily, tyres were around £1k(20inch techno) and brakes for all f/r were around £1300 from OPC