Snap 'em off? Turbo nuts-studs...
Discussion
Typical of me, I generally start off needing to change oil and filter, and I end up with an engine rebuild...
Anyway, wished to remove BUMPER side heat shields as they are damaged and rattling, and one of the securing nuts on the RHS at the front upper is really quite impossible to get at. I suspect these shields are fitted prior to the exhaust system.
But I figured that if I removed the TURBO heat shield, I could probably manage.
You know what's coming next. Those heatshield nuts are not going anywhere without at least half of the stud they are now as one with. I know, because I tried, and now the turbo is 25% less attached to the exhaust than it was before. :/
Examining the evidence, there is not a hope in hell that the remaining 75% are going to co-operate, either. It's just too bad. I don't know what the nuts are made of, but especially in view of a recent recommendation to replace with stainless - all I can say is that the OEM nuts look like they are plated or something and are just fine, but the studs are goners.
Anyway I am not happy to have the turbo hang off 3 of 4 studs so I will be removing it.
Should I just wrench (shear) the rest off and deal with the studs on the bench (or more likely hand the turbo to an engineering works for sorting)?
I seriously do not think that even heat will get these nuts removed (and I don't have oxy-acetylene anyway) because the studs are weakened.
Any reason why an engineering outfit would not be able to remove sheared off studs?
Anyway, wished to remove BUMPER side heat shields as they are damaged and rattling, and one of the securing nuts on the RHS at the front upper is really quite impossible to get at. I suspect these shields are fitted prior to the exhaust system.
But I figured that if I removed the TURBO heat shield, I could probably manage.
You know what's coming next. Those heatshield nuts are not going anywhere without at least half of the stud they are now as one with. I know, because I tried, and now the turbo is 25% less attached to the exhaust than it was before. :/
Examining the evidence, there is not a hope in hell that the remaining 75% are going to co-operate, either. It's just too bad. I don't know what the nuts are made of, but especially in view of a recent recommendation to replace with stainless - all I can say is that the OEM nuts look like they are plated or something and are just fine, but the studs are goners.
Anyway I am not happy to have the turbo hang off 3 of 4 studs so I will be removing it.
Should I just wrench (shear) the rest off and deal with the studs on the bench (or more likely hand the turbo to an engineering works for sorting)?
I seriously do not think that even heat will get these nuts removed (and I don't have oxy-acetylene anyway) because the studs are weakened.
Any reason why an engineering outfit would not be able to remove sheared off studs?
With enough time and effort you can break the nuts away with a very sharp chisel; leaving the studs in situ - tbh I don't attempt to remove the studs without oxy-acetylene heat as snapping them off is drama you don't need - bear in mind that if you have to take the turbo's off for work you wont just be needing heatshields -none of the service lines (oil/breathers) will come out without damage of some sort. ....... 
With enough time and effort you can break the nuts away with a very sharp chisel; leaving the studs in situ - tbh I don't attempt to remove the studs without oxy-acetylene heat as snapping them off is drama you don't need - bear in mind that if you have to take the turbo's off for work you wont just be needing heatshields -none of the service lines (oil/breathers) will come out without damage of some sort. .......
Pope said:
With enough time and effort you can break the nuts away with a very sharp chisel; leaving the studs in situ - tbh I don't attempt to remove the studs without oxy-acetylene heat as snapping them off is drama you don't need - bear in mind that if you have to take the turbo's off for work you wont just be needing heatshields -none of the service lines (oil/breathers) will come out without damage of some sort. .......
Hmmmm.I have little doubt that you are right re removing the turbo.
Unfortunately I don't really have many options. After snapping one stud off, I had a go at another - got a lovely crack initially and thought that the nut had let go it's grip - but half a turn later and I got that sinking feeling. So now I have two and a half studs worth of torque retaining the exhaust.
For future reference easiest way to remove side heat shields is to whip off rear bumper and intercoolers, no need to remove exhaust, you just need a right combination of extensions/joints for your socket and double jointed wrists! I don't actually find them too bad, I've removed them everytime I've replaced plugs/coilpacks.
Sounds like the studs are buggered, as above you really need some heat, but failing that, and providing there's something to get hold of, you could try copious amounts of GT85/Plusgas and a stud extractor socket. If you resort to removing turbos make sure you have a decent set of pipe spanners for the oil lines. Oh, and while they're off you may as well have them tweaked before you put them back on
Good luck
Sounds like the studs are buggered, as above you really need some heat, but failing that, and providing there's something to get hold of, you could try copious amounts of GT85/Plusgas and a stud extractor socket. If you resort to removing turbos make sure you have a decent set of pipe spanners for the oil lines. Oh, and while they're off you may as well have them tweaked before you put them back on
Good luck
Hi Evo,
I was actually following your instructions (I believe for the removal of the bumper, and the intercoolers...) must thank you for your efforts!
But one heatshield nut - RHS, front, upper, above the blower - even catching a glimpse of it is difficult! I realised that the engine ancillaries setup is not perfectly symmetrical, mostly due to the staggered cylinders of course, and those slight differences mean that access to the right side is a very different proposition to that on the left.
And all have been corroded on, so if one does not get a decent purchase and is in a position to apply a not inconsiderable effort they aren't going anywhere, so any iffy arrangements just won't work. I actually had to grind a 13mm socket to take off the inside taper, as otherwise it was flying off the nuts (partially because it was near impossible to seat the socket perfectly square)
Have calmed down a bit now and come Monday will buy either Wurth Rost-Off Ice http://www.wurth.co.uk/product/rostoffice or similar before I go for gold
What sort of tweaking do you refer to re the turbos? As has been previously hinted at - what sort of similar "inconveniences" am I to expect when I try to remove them? One actually, for now.
Also, one, apparently recently serviced one (though I have no idea what was done) is blowing some oil into the intercooler. Not a lot, it's like vapour condensate, in fact where it pools (don't let that term impress - talking 1/4 teaspoon qtys) it's actually sludgy and grease or cream like rather than liquid, so it has taken a while to accumulate. Many say this is normal, but the untouched one (the pig with the seized nuts) is showing none of this and the pipework and intercooler is bone dry on the inside. Thoughts?
Thanks!
I was actually following your instructions (I believe for the removal of the bumper, and the intercoolers...) must thank you for your efforts!
But one heatshield nut - RHS, front, upper, above the blower - even catching a glimpse of it is difficult! I realised that the engine ancillaries setup is not perfectly symmetrical, mostly due to the staggered cylinders of course, and those slight differences mean that access to the right side is a very different proposition to that on the left.
And all have been corroded on, so if one does not get a decent purchase and is in a position to apply a not inconsiderable effort they aren't going anywhere, so any iffy arrangements just won't work. I actually had to grind a 13mm socket to take off the inside taper, as otherwise it was flying off the nuts (partially because it was near impossible to seat the socket perfectly square)
Have calmed down a bit now and come Monday will buy either Wurth Rost-Off Ice http://www.wurth.co.uk/product/rostoffice or similar before I go for gold
What sort of tweaking do you refer to re the turbos? As has been previously hinted at - what sort of similar "inconveniences" am I to expect when I try to remove them? One actually, for now.
Also, one, apparently recently serviced one (though I have no idea what was done) is blowing some oil into the intercooler. Not a lot, it's like vapour condensate, in fact where it pools (don't let that term impress - talking 1/4 teaspoon qtys) it's actually sludgy and grease or cream like rather than liquid, so it has taken a while to accumulate. Many say this is normal, but the untouched one (the pig with the seized nuts) is showing none of this and the pipework and intercooler is bone dry on the inside. Thoughts?
Thanks!
Use a nut splitter:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOOLZONE-4PC-Nut-Splitte...
If you have space.
If you don't heat up with a blow lamp. Allow to cool and then soak with penetrating oil overnight and then first try and tighten the nut half a turn. Usually a good start.
H
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOOLZONE-4PC-Nut-Splitte...
If you have space.
If you don't heat up with a blow lamp. Allow to cool and then soak with penetrating oil overnight and then first try and tighten the nut half a turn. Usually a good start.
H
Hilux2400 said:
Use a nut splitter:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOOLZONE-4PC-Nut-Splitte...
If you have space.
If you don't heat up with a blow lamp. Allow to cool and then soak with penetrating oil overnight and then first try and tighten the nut half a turn. Usually a good start.
H
Now why didn't I think of that... Got a shedload of tools but none of them.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOOLZONE-4PC-Nut-Splitte...
If you have space.
If you don't heat up with a blow lamp. Allow to cool and then soak with penetrating oil overnight and then first try and tighten the nut half a turn. Usually a good start.
H
Worth a try. Will still want the studs out but having something to grab on to would make all the difference.
Thanks for that.
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