Cayman R Geo Setup - Tyre Wear
Cayman R Geo Setup - Tyre Wear
Author
Discussion

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
I've done a search but the facility is down as usual and the results were patchy so......

Just looking to see what other Cayman R owners who venture out on track do with their geo on the front to stop the tyres wearing the outer shoulders ??

I have read that this is a common occurrence and fully expected it given the suspension is less adjustable than something like a GT3. When I picked the car up all the inner shoulders were very well worn so I was lucky enough to start ownership with 4 fresh new boots (PS2's as they refused to fit MPSS. A couple of trackdays later and sure enough the outer shoulders are showing signs of wear when the rest of the tyre has plenty of tread left.I am more than happy how the car drives and it gets used on the road as well as several trackdays. The rear tyres seems perfect with even wear throughout the tread.
I have mitigated the wear slightly by increasing the tyre pressure at the front to prevent the tyre rolling over and changed my driving style to decrease understeer but wondered if :

Can I get some more negative camber on the front and if so , how much ?
Given the answer to the above question is going to be "limited" what sort of extra bits are needed to get the "satisfactory" amount ?
Can I just adjust the front and leave the rear alone ?

I appreciate there is a trade off between track and road and am looking for the compromise and would be interested to hear if anyone has addressed this issue ???

Cheers


Cheers

mrdemon

21,146 posts

294 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
I have -1.2 on the front and zero toe, back is still oem
I also have 7mm spacers just on the front to widen the front track to aid turn in.

that's about max and only if you are lucky, you might only get -1.0 and that's not enough.

ideal you want about -1.8 up front but you will need RSS LCA for that.

you might want rear toe links also to stop the rear stearing under braking.

but you need R-spec tyres for track, road tyres on track is pointless imo.
I run Dunlop Race maxx.

ALso fit the GT3 front brake ducts and if you have steels you will need RS29 or a better pad.

hope that helps

PS it's even more awesome on the road like this as well :-)

Trev450

6,751 posts

201 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Running parallel toe or even a smigin of toe out on the front should assist with your tyre wear and will also sharpen up the turn-in. Generally most people leave the rear oem.

I'm not sure that increasing front track by only 14mm as per mrdemon's post would have any significant effect.

Slippydiff

16,364 posts

252 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Trev450 said:
I'm not sure that increasing front track by only 14mm as per mrdemon's post would have any significant effect.
On the contrary, I'd imagine the addition of 7mm spacers to the Cayman would endow the car with a Red Bull RB9 precise front end.

I'd seriously be thinking about incorporating a blown diffuser to balance the rear end on account of the massive increase in front end grip through the fitment of said spacers.

But seriously, front toe out ? Sounds like a recipe for a very unstable front end under heavy braking (or breaking as Mr D refers to it as)

Trev450

6,751 posts

201 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Slippydiff said:
Trev450 said:
I'm not sure that increasing front track by only 14mm as per mrdemon's post would have any significant effect.
On the contrary, I'd imagine the addition of 7mm spacers to the Cayman would endow the car with a Red Bull RB9 precise front end.

I'd seriously be thinking about incorporating a blown diffuser to balance the rear end on account of the massive increase in front end grip through the fitment of said spacers.

But seriously, front toe out ? Sounds like a recipe for a very unstable front end under heavy braking (or breaking as Mr D refers to it as)
Granted front toe out can lead to some weaving under hard braking, but can also reap rewards with regards to turn-in as previously stated. I guess its really down to what suits each individual best.

Can't fault the other recommendations though. Where can can I purchase said diffuser.

jackwood

2,964 posts

237 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
You can increase front negative camber by adding adjustable top mounts too, rather than swapping the LCA's. I fitted K-Mac (Australian company) camber/caster adjustable top mounts to my cayman and they worked very well.

Can you post a picture of the wear on your front tyres? Just so we can get an idea I how excessive it is?

I ended up running -2.0deg all round on my Cayman for road and track. Wear at both front and rear was significantly improved with that setup.

Jack

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for the quick response guys. That answers the question about the rear end then , nice and simple , leave as is.... great.

I have no idea what the factory geo is up front in regard to the camber but according to the answers above the max I can get without swapping components is about minus 1 to minus 1.2.

Front brakes are all taken care of and the tyres will be swapped to MPSS or stickier when these PS2's are finally finished.

A plan is forming ( going the easy route first ) - Spacers for the front and maxing out the negative camber within oem limits and see how we get on.

J-P

4,422 posts

235 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Been having similar thoughts for my CR. I'm interested in the replies. Parr recommended fully adjustable suspension bilstein B16 PSS 10. I think I'll keep it as std for the time-being and then make a decision next year.

edc

9,642 posts

280 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
I don't know whether you can do this on a 987 but on my 986 the top mount slots are drilled so the top mount can move more inboard to give more negative camber. It now runs just over 1.5 deg with no fancy adjustable bits.

Fire_2

138 posts

239 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Same problem with my boxster spyder, was thinking of maxing the front negative camber and zero'ing the front toe.

So far 6700miles and a few trackdays and they don't look great on the outside fronts, rears are fine .

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
I have not bothered ringing any of the well known shops as I know exactly what they will say , " You need this and you need that ....... now bend over and lube up !!!" I'm sure aftermarket adjustable suspension will do the job and for Parr to recommend that does not surprise me. No thanks

Before spending loads I want to explore whether oem can achieve a compromise.

Pictures as per request. TYres have done 2k miles from new including trackdays at Brands , Donnington & Spa. I think they have lasted pretty well considering and the extra pressure when on track has helped but it just needs a bit more help , hence the post





Excuse the wet look as the car has just been detailed and tyre shine applied biggrin

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Thats worth knowing about in case we need that extra smidge cheers

Trev450

6,751 posts

201 months

Saturday 17th August 2013
quotequote all
Far Cough said:
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Thats worth knowing about in case we need that extra smidge cheers
Good find. Cheaper than new LCA's.

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Sunday 18th August 2013
quotequote all
Trev450 said:
Good find. Cheaper than new LCA's.
and look easy to fit too

Top mount doesn't appear to have slots like a GT3 , so no movement there. All adjustment must be at the bottom end unless aftermarket top mounts are purchased



Powerflex kit looking even better now ...

edc

9,642 posts

280 months

Sunday 18th August 2013
quotequote all
You can drill the holes where those top mount bolts come through.

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Sunday 18th August 2013
quotequote all
Two posts saying the same at the same time. You are not in the same room are you !!!

I don't think I'll be drilling the holes but understand the concept ! Gulp

edc

9,642 posts

280 months

Sunday 18th August 2013
quotequote all
I had it done of my car a couple of months back. It sounds like a hack but all you need to do is mark the edge of the nut flange in your picture then drill the slot to the mark. Yes it is a cheap mod but the idea was actually from Chris at CG.

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Monday 19th August 2013
quotequote all
Further research leads me away from the Powerflex bushes now. The reason being that they are not as adjustable as the advertising blurb would have you think. That , combined with the fact that once on the car the adjustment is a PITA adding to labour costs and plus the cost of the bush itself , makes it non cost effective.

I'm now leaning towards edc's suggestion of enlarging the holes at the turret top to achieve the -2 to -2.5 i'm after. The hole would only need to be made a few mm larger which will then be hidden by the flanged nut screwed down ontop of it. Hmmmmmmm

Trev450

6,751 posts

201 months

Monday 19th August 2013
quotequote all
Useful to know. I was considering the bushes myself but given the points you've raised, I think I will pass on that idea also.

Let us know how you get on with enlarging the turret mount holes and what degree of camber you end up with.

Far Cough

Original Poster:

2,481 posts

197 months

Monday 19th August 2013
quotequote all
Trev450 said:
Useful to know. I was considering the bushes myself but given the points you've raised, I think I will pass on that idea also.

Let us know how you get on with enlarging the turret mount holes and what degree of camber you end up with.
Yes , will do. Spoke to someone who fitted those bushes about 6 weeks ago and had nothing good to say about them.