A question of future value
Discussion
I'm starting to have thoughts of a GT3, probably a 997. So here's my question and I hope it is taken the right way.(i.e not trolling)
Given that there appears to be a massive trend towards people HAVING to have a warrantee on their USED car these days and Porsche all of a suddenly kicking off about overrevs, will you be in a position if you have overrevs recorded on you car that it will become unsalable or it's value affected due to this?
I only ask, as if i look at one, use it on track and hit the limetter on up shifts or down shifts, I could end up with a car that I can't move on. Just to finish, I am on the side of NOT purchasing warantees and keeping a fixing fund.
Given that there appears to be a massive trend towards people HAVING to have a warrantee on their USED car these days and Porsche all of a suddenly kicking off about overrevs, will you be in a position if you have overrevs recorded on you car that it will become unsalable or it's value affected due to this?
I only ask, as if i look at one, use it on track and hit the limetter on up shifts or down shifts, I could end up with a car that I can't move on. Just to finish, I am on the side of NOT purchasing warantees and keeping a fixing fund.
Thanks for the replys, but its drifting off topic. I not concerned about 'how' the overrevs get there as such, its more the consequence of them being logged.
If i look at a car that has overevs reorded, do i walk away or haggle hard? If i buy one with them, will i be stuck with it?.
Or is it as i suspect, a load of bo!!0**s peddled by insurance salesmen!
If i look at a car that has overevs reorded, do i walk away or haggle hard? If i buy one with them, will i be stuck with it?.
Or is it as i suspect, a load of bo!!0**s peddled by insurance salesmen!
So I think it'd be useful for you to understand what the rev ranges are on the 997 GT3 and what they mean. They essentially fall into two types. Those that get there through "normal" driving and hitting the rev limiter and then those higher ranges where the engine has been forced to turn too fast by (normally) changing down at too high a speed for the gear selected (eg selecting third from 6th when 5th was the right gear).
And to try and answer your question, if you drive "normally and don't get any mechanical over-revs and only get a normal amount of rev-limiter activity, then all is fine for future resale.
In a simplistic sense, if you buzz the engine, you have dented the value of the car. Of course you may also have knackered the engine too.
Now there are still going to be buyers. Once time has elapsed after the event and perhaps after a leak-down test, (some) people will be ok to buy a car with a buzzed engine. But there are less buyers and a stigma. That can only be detrimental to values.
Nothing to do with insurance salesmen I'm afraid!
Bert
And to try and answer your question, if you drive "normally and don't get any mechanical over-revs and only get a normal amount of rev-limiter activity, then all is fine for future resale.
In a simplistic sense, if you buzz the engine, you have dented the value of the car. Of course you may also have knackered the engine too.
Now there are still going to be buyers. Once time has elapsed after the event and perhaps after a leak-down test, (some) people will be ok to buy a car with a buzzed engine. But there are less buyers and a stigma. That can only be detrimental to values.
Nothing to do with insurance salesmen I'm afraid!
Bert
RGambo said:
Thanks for the replys, but its drifting off topic. I not concerned about 'how' the overrevs get there as such, its more the consequence of them being logged.
If i look at a car that has overevs reorded, do i walk away or haggle hard? If i buy one with them, will i be stuck with it?.
Or is it as i suspect, a load of bo!!0**s peddled by insurance salesmen!
How hard can you haggle over over revs? Essentially you are saying the car's worth less because of the over revs but you still want to buy it.If i look at a car that has overevs reorded, do i walk away or haggle hard? If i buy one with them, will i be stuck with it?.
Or is it as i suspect, a load of bo!!0**s peddled by insurance salesmen!
As long as the over revs were some time ago, and not of the severe type, and the engine (and the car) comes up aces after a good test ride and drive, buy the car. As long as you do not add to the upper over rev range counts and take good care of the car the over revs that were there long before you bought the car count for nothing.
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